Hi all, been away a long time. Today I picked up a PC 442-1 w/Crimson Trace grips. The PC model w/stainless steel cylinder.
As I was checking it out, I noticed cylinder seemed hard to open and mentioned it to staff working with me. It wasn't impossible, but nothing like my Colt Python or Cobra. I opened and closed it a few times (closed as normal every time). Extractor rod not loose and cylinder appears balanced and spins freely.
Got it home and worked it some more but still very tight. To the point cylinder made tiny scratches on frame. One on front just under barrel, one behind cylinder, where opposite end of extractor rod slides in.
My question is this…is this something caused by the frame coating? I know sometimes when gun are cerakoted and such, it can affect tolerances. I can live with scratches (will be working EDC after range time confirms proper operation). I'm just trying to understand the super tight cylinder (and reassure myself I didn't get a lemon, even as a PC model.
One other question. The 38 Spcl A-zoom snap caps I use in my colts will not fit all the way in the 442, so cylinder can't close (all cylinder openings). 38 spcl +p real bullets fit fine, but not the azoom snap caps. Are there snap caps that will fit a 442? If not, is it safe to repeatedly dry fire a 442 w/o something for the hammer assembly to strike?
Sorry for the question dump. Just some oddities with the 442 I haven't dealt with on other revolvers.
As I was checking it out, I noticed cylinder seemed hard to open and mentioned it to staff working with me. It wasn't impossible, but nothing like my Colt Python or Cobra. I opened and closed it a few times (closed as normal every time). Extractor rod not loose and cylinder appears balanced and spins freely.
Got it home and worked it some more but still very tight. To the point cylinder made tiny scratches on frame. One on front just under barrel, one behind cylinder, where opposite end of extractor rod slides in.
My question is this…is this something caused by the frame coating? I know sometimes when gun are cerakoted and such, it can affect tolerances. I can live with scratches (will be working EDC after range time confirms proper operation). I'm just trying to understand the super tight cylinder (and reassure myself I didn't get a lemon, even as a PC model.
One other question. The 38 Spcl A-zoom snap caps I use in my colts will not fit all the way in the 442, so cylinder can't close (all cylinder openings). 38 spcl +p real bullets fit fine, but not the azoom snap caps. Are there snap caps that will fit a 442? If not, is it safe to repeatedly dry fire a 442 w/o something for the hammer assembly to strike?
Sorry for the question dump. Just some oddities with the 442 I haven't dealt with on other revolvers.
You have too many issues with your 442 to even consider carrying it. I have 2 "Chattanooga Arms" 442PC models and have never been terribly happy with them, loose sideplate screws being one reason. You may as well contact S&W with your problems: they may be minor but there are too many. Or is there a gunsmith you can trust who can take a look at it and maybe strip and reassemble the gun? This would be my course of action. Can't really tell w/o having the gun in hand. There ARE 2 or 3 factory-trained/agency armorers on the Forum. Perhaps they would chime in. They are friendly and have no attitude issues. Hope this helps.
