New Reloader - Great 1st Time

[M3Stuart]

Hey there! Ok, I made the reloading plunge. After reading these, and other, boards I decided to just try it fairly inexpensively to see if I liked it.

I started out with a Lee Challenger kit, Frankford Arsenal Tumbler, (can't remember the brand - Dillon maybe) Caliper, Lee Carbide die set, Lee factory crimping die, a lb of HP38, 500 158gr LSWC bullets, CCI 500 primers and about 1500 pieces of brass. I'd saved every piece of .38 brass I ever shot since I started in the caliber a year or two ago.

So I'm about $250 into reloading eqpt and about $100 into components.

I loaded (starting load) of 3.1 gr of HP38 with the 158 gr LSWC and CCI 500 primer.

I had 100% success. Ammo fired to POA with a 4" 64, 4" 686 and 2" 36. Had one single light strike in my M36 - which fired on the second strike. But my M36 gets the very occasional light strike with factory ammo too. I was told the CCI primers are pretty hard. So I might buy WSP next time.

Bought the stuff last Tuesday. Shot my first test rounds Friday evening. Had the rest of 500 rounds loaded by Saturday night. Blazed away Sunday. But my hand was too darn tired from the reloading.

I'm going to get some more LSWC and load another 500 rounds then switch to Win SP primers. I calculate that I will have repaid the initial investment in eqpt when I hit about $1250 rounds.

What a deal!

 

[M3Stuart]

Oh, did have one issue;

I did have one issue that chewed up a couple hours;
When I was going to load the first rounds, I could not get the volumetric measurement on the Lee "perfect powder measure" to sync with the calculated volume per the chart. It was off by about 20% by weight. So, either the volumetric powder measure was 'off' or my scale was 'off'. Anyhoo, wanting to NOT blow myself up, I hauled the scale, powder measure and powder up to my friendly LGS and borrowed one of their digital scales to test mine. Well, my scale matched the digital one. So that told me that the powder measure was off. I went with the scale and the ammo worked fine.

Edit: ...and as my LGS friend pointed out: you get nickle and dimed on the cheap kits because you may have to replace all the components. I will have to drop another $30ish on a digital scale just to be safe.

 

[kennyb]

good for you...reloading is a hobby all by itself and saves you a lot of money !

 

[GyMac]

Congratulations on the great start. Isn't the .38 Special a wonderful cartridge? Once you get settled in, you might try upping your powder charge a little bit. Not in an effort to make your .38 special a magnum, but the increase might increase accuracy.

 

[jbull380]

I must expose one myth though. You will not save one dime, you'll just spend whatever you save on more ammo. LOL!

 

[amazingflapjack]

I would suggest that you try some ways of making sure that you don't get a double load of powder-or none at all. It can happen easily. One way is to find a bullet that is charged properly, and quickly weigh the ones just loaded to compare the weight within a couple of 10's on your digital scale. Focus-and go safely. Flapjack.

 

[FloridaFlier]

Consider buying Federal primers. In my experience, they are softer than CCI and will seat more easily.
Most important. Keep notes of everything you do. Now that you can cook your own recipes, keep good notes of what you like and what you don't.
Welcome to reloading. It is a great hobby all by itself.

 

[Hobie1]

Don't worry about how you won't save money reloading 'cause you shoot more. Your cost per round will be less allowing you to shoot more. But yes, I offset the savings by shooting more.......

It is a fun and to me a relaxing and a way to get closer to my hobby.

Hobie

 

[Skip Sackett]

Savings is only the reason we START, we keep going because it becomes an obsession, plain and simple!

Glad you started. The scale isn't the issue, the volumetric measuring system is. There is an adjustable bar you can by to get past that for light loads, check it out on their website.

Keep going, stay teachable, you will do fine. All of us are still learning in one fashion or another.

Now, you can never be without rounds. As long as you have components that is!

 

[Az Rick]

You might want to look into a powder measure. I use RCBS uniflow measures, not perfect but good. My system for watching, undercharged/ overcharged cases is when I load my 50 round block, I hold it under a bright light to see that all cases look the same, volume wise. I also random sample 4 or 5 cases with a scale to see if they're okay. My Smiths' love 4grns. of 231 or HP-38. under a 146grn. DEWC. I cast myself.
I tell everyone, I shoot so I can reload.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Good for you, congratulations...

You will find you can load about 200 to 250 rounds for the price you buy 50 rounds of .38 Special. So, you will probably shoot those 200/250 rounds instead of only 50. In reality you don't save money reloading but you will get to shoot a lot more for the same price...

 

[M3Stuart]

Yes, I had heard that the Win primers were softer than CCI and that the Federal are softer still. The recipe I'm using goes from 3.1 gr of HP38 up to 3.7, which I think is +P pressure. I have two Smith .38s that are pre +P rated. So I don't plan to go to +P anytime soon.

One other thing; I always test my loads in my 686 before moving to my older m-10 or 36 in case I've over-charged. The load I'm making now in a 686 feels like a .22 or .380; no kick at all. Yet, it hits POA at 40' - 50' in both the 4" 686 and 64, which I've read is the basic design spec for that load. Soooo, I'm planning to increase the load to 3.2 next time to get a bit more velocity.

I have always heard about the "...you'll shoot more..." and, boy, is that true. Now, instead of going out and worrying about whether or not I can afford to shoot 1 box or 2, I just shoot until I don't want to shoot anymore. Turns out - that's about 150 to 200 rounds of .38. Then I'll wear out a couple .22's with at least 2 or 300 rounds. And maybe some 9mm too (less than 50 - or less if I'm hitting tight, say 4", patterns at 50').

I have not been saving all my 9mm brass because it's hard to pick out of the grass. This time I moved my targets so I could stand in an area that was mostly dirt. So now I can pick up the 9mm brass too. Of course, I could just mow that part of my field.... I'll eventually start loading 9mm once I get a good collection of brass.

Thanks for all the posts on this forum. They really helped me a lot getting started!!!!

 

[SMSgt]

Congrats!

I've always used whatever brand of primer is available and have never had any primer issues (okay, two dud primers since I started in '75). I've always felt "light strikes" were more of a firing pin-related issue rather than a primer issue.

I have always and still use a RCBS 505 beam scale. I worked electronics for 20 years and will never trust anything powered by electrons. Keep a beam scale clean and it will remain accurate forever. No warm-up required, no battery to fail.

With very light loads, meaning any that can be double charged and a bullet seated, it's uber important to visually eyeball the lowder load prior to seating a bullet. One double charge of some hot powder can ruin the day.

The Lee auto-measure are iffy at best when it comes to the chart setting versus the actual weight dropped. Always--ALWAYS--verify any setting with all powders.

 

[Steve in Vermont]

Consider buying Federal primers. In my experience, they are softer than CCI and will seat more easily.
Most important. Keep notes of everything you do. Now that you can cook your own recipes, keep good notes of what you like and what you don't.
Welcome to reloading. It is a great hobby all by itself.

I've got a very old model 10 that has a light strike. I was getting frequent FTF with reloads and CCI Primers. No problem with Federal so I use them strictly for the 10. Everything else gets CCI. I also use an RCBS 5-0-5 scales and wouldn't have anything else. Nice thing about reloading for a .38 is the variety. Soon you'll be loading SJHP.

 

[novalty]

I have not been saving all my 9mm brass because it's hard to pick out of the grass. This time I moved my targets so I could stand in an area that was mostly dirt. So now I can pick up the 9mm brass too. Of course, I could just mow that part of my field.... I'll eventually start loading 9mm once I get a good collection of brass.

I understand your pain about finding brass. I shoot in my father's field, and find it absolutely amazing that shiney brass can disappear in short grass. Anyway, the trick I use now is, using a cheap blue tarp thrown down in the general direction of the brass, can adjust to where your brass seems to be landing. Lay range bag other items on the edges to keep wind from picking up. When done shooting you can pick up around edges, and force the brass to the middle for consolidated pick up.

Have still been trying to MacGyver an idea for a collapsible easy to transport, (cheap), deflector screen to bring to the range that you place beside you. Something like a projector screen that stops flying brass and drops in one location.

 

[M3Stuart]

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Snapping Twig]

You've done the right thing!

I'm a Winchester primer type of guy, always have been. Not too hard, not too soft - just right.

FWIW, and I'm sure these guys will back me up on this, it's time to consider reloading's evil stepchild... CASTING.

Once you go that route, you'll feel even more complete. Not to mention you'll have an inexhaustible supply of boolits.

Until then, buy a scale. Must have a scale.

 

[Skip Sackett]

You've done the right thing!

I'm a Winchester primer type of guy, always have been. Not too hard, not too soft - just right.

FWIW, and I'm sure these guys will back me up on this, it's time to consider reloading's evil stepchild... CASTING.

Once you go that route, you'll feel even more complete. Not to mention you'll have an inexhaustible supply of boolits.

Until then, buy a scale. Must have a scale.

LISTEN TO THE MAN 'CAUSE HE IS STEERING YOU RIGHT!

Think of it like this: As long as your neighbors have tires on their cars, you can have boolits! hahahahahaha (Just kidding unless this administration gets in office for another term! hahahahahahaha)

 

[CookE]

I have been reloading since 1979, (32 years) I bought one of the first Dillon Reloaders that Mike Dillon made. The serial # was 121. It was the
RL 1000 MADE COMPLETELY OUT OF STAINLESS STEEL. In 1979 I paid $2300 for it. I think that must have been about 6 month's wages back then. At one time, I owned 4 Dillon 1050's and 1 Dillon 550. THIS IS ONLY MY 2 CENTS WORTH. If you are going to get into reloading BUY NOTHING BUT "DILLON PRODUCTS". I think they have the best of everything, especially their LIFETIME GURANTEE. There was a guy one time went to the landfill and found a frame for a Dillon 550 that had been in a fire and all burned up. He picked it up and sent it to Dillon and asked them how much it would cost him to get it all fixed up and in running condition. WHEN HE RECEIVED A BOX IN THE MAIL FROM DILLON A SHORT TIME LATER, HE OPENED IT AND DILLON HAD SENT HIM A BRAND NEW 550 AT "NO COST TO HIM WHATSOEVER". NOW, GUYS THAT IS HARD TO BEAT. The only thing they have changed is now the Dillon Super 1050 DOES NOT HAVE A LIFETIME GUARANTEE. If something breaks on it YOU HAVE TO PAY FOR THE PART. That is because so many people were buying them and using them for commercial use and pumping out millons of rounds on them Dillon just made a business decision to not have the same guarantee on them. ALL THE REST OF THEIR EQUIPMENT HAS THE LIFETIME GUARANTEE and it doesn't matter if you bought the loader from a buddy the guarantee goes with the machine......AND NO, I DON'T WORK FOR MIKE DILLON, Its just a great company and great people to do business with. If you call them ask for ERIK HARVEY and tell him John Fross from HAYS, KANSAS SENT YOU and he will treat you right..................THANKS..............CookE

 

[Wheelgunner840]

Congrats on taking the plunge! As long as you are careful and alert, you will be enjoying reloading for a long time to come! I do have a question for you though.

M3Stuart;The recipe I'm using goes from 3.1 gr of HP38 up to 3.7, which I think is +P pressure. I have two Smith .38s that are pre +P rated. So I don't plan to go to +P anytime soon.

What reloading manual are you using that shows 3.7 gr. of W-231/HP-38 as a +P load? I have several sources that I check for loads, and I cannot find one that lists that load as +P.

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with the loads you are using. I use something similar in my light target loads. (3.5). But, I also load the 158 grn. LSWC at 4.0 and find it to be a very manageable, fun to shoot, accurate load as well. 4.0 is not listed as +P in my Lyman manuals with a 158 grn. LSWC.

Be sure to cross reference each load that you plan on using with either separate reloading manuals, or the powder manufacturers on-line data.


Good luck to you. Have fun and be safe!


WG840