New Sport 2 issue

[Redfisher60]

As I took it apart to clean and lube before my first range trip I inspected the bolt staking, it was as I had seen it should be on various places on the net.
But.....the buffer tube nut had no staking, you can tell where it looked like someone on the production line made a light stroke attempt, like a strike mark, but that is it.

I guess I will take time to do this. I have read it can be important.

Anyone else with a Sport 2 find this?

 

[scooter123]

I don't have a Sport even though the price has tempted me. All of my AR's are home builds, two in 223 Wylde and one in 300 Blackout. Have not staked the buffer tube on any of them, in part because if I want to add a rear sling mount or something similar having that nut staked in place could be a problem. What I have is a buffer tube wrench and I check that nut every time I clean one of my rifles after a range outing. I also load my own ammunition so I can shoot more at each range session. Right now my 300 BLK is my favorite and in the year an a half I've been shooting it I have yet to see the buffer tube nut shoot loose, even after running over 200 rounds downrange.

Just a suggestion but if you have the wrench then simply tighten it well and just check it every time you clean your rifle. Because in the event you need to pull your buffer tube for one reason or another you'll find not having it staked can save you the cost of replacing a buffer tube with threads that were chewed up by an aggressively staked in nut.

 

[hdrolling]

I don't think mine was staked when I bought it, I added a QD end plate and staked it myself after I was done. It's easy to do. I have a Starrett Automatic Center Punch that you hit with a hammer and it does a great job. It was like $30 on amazon. I also build my own rifles and have used it to stake them all, good tool to have if you plan to build your own some day.

 

[MistWolf]

It doesn't take much to stake the endplate to the castlenut. In fact, it's easy to stake it too much, driving the endplate into the threads and damaging them.

However, if the staking is too light, it's easy enough to stake it a little deeper.

 

[Redfisher60]

Mistwolf I am talking NO staking at all!

 

[Redfisher60]

Upon reading further on the castle nut staking this is the one big issue on the Sport I find. Seems S&W is letting this part of the QC go.
Although I have to say my gas staking looks excellent from comparison.

Just one thing to be aware of if you get one of these. But for the price I can afford to do a little punching or even on going checks to tighten it.

 

[rtquig]

Upon reading further on the castle nut staking this is the one big issue on the Sport I find. Seems S&W is letting this part of the QC go.
Although I have to say my gas staking looks excellent from comparison.

Just one thing to be aware of if you get one of these. But for the price I can afford to do a little punching or even on going checks to tighten it.

I have 2 of the Sport 1's. Each is staked although not very deep. I have not had any problems with the castle nut moving.

 

[Racer X]

Spray with brake cleaner, use blue Loctite, and get on with your life.

 

[Redfisher60]

Spray with brake cleaner, use blue Loctite, and get on with your life.

Yeah? Why the brake cleaner?

And why do you think this is hindering my life? This is a toy we are talking about. A hobby.

I take fishing much more seriously.

 

[Rastoff]

If the buffer tube castle nut is properly torqued, it doesn't need to be staked. None of mine are staked and I've never had one come loose in many thousands of rounds and hard use. I believe the proper torque is 40ft/lbs.

Now, if you're going to be spending weeks in the bush, hunting the Taliban, staking it is a good idea. Otherwise, just have fun and don't sweat it.

 

[Redfisher60]

Ok
The only hunting I'll be doing is deer and turkey.

So I wonder if S&W is properly torqueing them?

I think I'll keep a good eye on it.

 

[Racer X]

Yeah? Why the brake cleaner?

And why do you think this is hindering my life? This is a toy we are talking about. A hobby.

I take fishing much more seriously.

any petroleum residue will prevent the threadlocker from sticking to the surfaces. Try gluing a stick of butter to another, and get back to us.....

 

[Redfisher60]

any petroleum residue will prevent the threadlocker from sticking to the surfaces. Try gluing a stick of butter to another, and get back to us.....

Why don't you tell us what happened when you tried to glue the sticks of butter together?

 

[Racer X]

I finally used Duct Tape.

 

[Kadonny]

Mistwolf I am talking NO staking at all!

But you said there is a light strike mark in your first post like they did try to stake it.

If you have no plans to swap anthing buffer tube related or end plate related, stake it. If you have plans to do some swapping, then just mark the castle nut and the end plate with a marker. That way if the castle nuts moves (starts to loosen) you'll see it right away.

 

[ARVOL]

I can’t speak from experience, but from everything I’ve read, you should stake your castle nut. My Sport 2 that I bought 5 years ago is staked... lightly, albeit.

Removing a staked castle nut is no big deal either. I would suggest if you remove a staked castle nut, to buy a new end plate when you reassemble, and restake the castle nut.

I will soon be replacing my end plate with the Magpul ASAP QD end plate. I will restake my castle nut. I bought an automatic center punch from Lowe’s the other day for $10. It should do the trick.

 

[mp.74]

Take a center punch and stake it. If you ever want to take it off and cant push past the staking by hand a dremel or other such will make quick work. If you dont feel like staking simply put a wrench on between range sessions and verify tightness.