New to Me 4566 has a clicking problem
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Outrider
Member
Has it dawned on anyone at how much trouble you guys calling a little, fragile piece of stamped brass a "spring" has caused me???????????????
A "spring" looks like a miniature "Slinky" -- and bears no resemblance whatsoever to a little, fragile piece of stamped brass. There is no "spring" anywhere near the area you've been describing.
There is, however, a little piece of stamped brass with two prongs that are bent backwards at the top of each prong.
When you press gently on that little piece of misnamed metal, the "click" magically disappears.
A spring is a spring unless you're British -- and you're "shagged" if you don't know the difference.
(Uuuuuhhhhhh....Wait a second! Didn't the British used to own Smith and Wesson???????)
A "spring" looks like a miniature "Slinky" -- and bears no resemblance whatsoever to a little, fragile piece of stamped brass. There is no "spring" anywhere near the area you've been describing.
There is, however, a little piece of stamped brass with two prongs that are bent backwards at the top of each prong.
When you press gently on that little piece of misnamed metal, the "click" magically disappears.
A spring is a spring unless you're British -- and you're "shagged" if you don't know the difference.
(Uuuuuhhhhhh....Wait a second! Didn't the British used to own Smith and Wesson???????)
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Outrider
Member
Sorry, no, I've never seen one -- that I was ever aware of.
So I have no idea what it looks like...
In 99.9999999999% of American usage, a "spring" is a coiled metal object.
If this sort of "spring" is exclusive to guns and gunsmithing, I've learned something.
Is a "leaf spring" a common gunsmithing term -- and is that what this part technically is in gunsmithing terms?
Outrider
Member
At any rate, I'm shocked at how well the new pencil and eraser "nudge" works.
On one 1006, the click had gotten quite annoying -- and this method fixed the problem in about three minutes.
On this particular gun, the leaf spring was bent pretty substantially.
Anybody have any workable theories on why this happens?
My surmise is, it looks like a probable side effect of recoil over time and pounding.
On one 1006, the click had gotten quite annoying -- and this method fixed the problem in about three minutes.
On this particular gun, the leaf spring was bent pretty substantially.
Anybody have any workable theories on why this happens?
My surmise is, it looks like a probable side effect of recoil over time and pounding.
skeeterbait
Member
Yeah this is probably the most common little complaint with 3rd gens. There are several ways the trigger play spring can get bent, snagging it with cloth while cleaning, any forward pressure on the trigger while cocked, metal fatigue over time. In fact it gets worse and more common as the metal weakens. Looks like it could be made of a better tempered more resilient spring steel but this is what Smith chooses to use. In some cases it winds up breaking off and you either live with it or have it replaced with the same part and start all over again.
I think for the most part flat springs are more common in pistols than coil springs. Sear springs, main springs, trigger play springs, etc... all flat... the sear spring in a 1911 is one flat spring with 3 other little flat springs coming off of it.
Oldherkpilot
Member
Many thanks to all the contributors to this thread. I just finished replacing the broken trigger play spring on my recently acquired 4506-1. Doubt I would have tackled it without the information provided here. Happy New Year!
bottlerocket
Member
Don't ever go looking for a main rod bearing in a car motor then, it will blow your mind lol
BigDaddy7972
Member
This is unbelieveable. I bought a law enforcement trade in 6906 a few months ago and found that I absolutely love this pistol. IMHO it is the perfect size pistol for ccw when you consider size and ammo capacity. But I HAD one problem. The clicking sound in S/A mode being discussed here. So I re-adjusted the trigger play spring as described here and presto- the pistol is like brand new. Now instead of sitting in my safe it sits on my waist. Thank you very much to all that provided a solution for me.
Wonder what those things are that hold up the back end of his all-American pick-em-up truck ?
Yep, usually the "click" heard is the sound of the tips of the trigger's forward prongs (or "ears"), as they're pulled down back into the V-notch on the back of the drawbar head, after having slipped up above the top edge of the V-notch at that spot.
Sometimes the spring tension against the back of the trigger's prongs may be reduced enough to allow the trigger prongs to tip upward at the front and slip above the top edge of the V-notch. Pulling the trigger brings them back down into the notch ... but produces that clicking sound.
I've been told by different factory folks throughout the years that while it's possible to have the SA trigger click occur in other calibers of the 3rd gen guns, it's most likely to occur in the .45/10 guns. Something about the dimensions and tolerances involved in the frame & drawbars in the .45/10's.
I have found it occurring in an occasional double column 59XX 9mm, though.
Anyway, while a slight adjustment of the trigger play spring can usually resolve this minor "click", it may not be a permanent fix.
The older style trigger pay spring, with the separate leaf springs on each side ("open" at the top of the spring), were somewhat stiffer than the current spring.
The current spring is connected across the top, and the side leafs are a bit less stiff. I've seen how if one side of an older version of the trigger play spring were to snap off, the remaining side could still be tensioning the spring (but I replaced the broken spring, anyway).
I'm not privy to why the engineers made the spring change from the separated sides to the connected sides, from thick/stiff to thinner/lighter, but the new style seems less likely to snap off, being more flexible and "forgiving".
Of course, excessively "adjusting" either style can accelerate the normal wear & tear on the spring, and even break them. Some caution would seem prudent in being over zealous in frequently "adjusting" the springs.
Anyway, the guns will run without them. The SA trigger will just have a bit more "slop" (forward & rearward), which probably wouldn't be noticed during the stresses of actual shooting ... unless someone was doing slow-fire target style shooting in SA. I remember firing approx 800+ rounds during 2 days of training & practice some years back, with a 6906, during which time the trigger play spring completely snapped off my gun. I was surprised to see it missing, as I hadn't felt anything different at all throughout my shooting.
Some years ago the CHP out here in CA apparently tired of shipping guns back to their Sacto gunsmiths to have the occasional broken trigger play spring removed, as I was told they removed the springs from all their guns and even drilled out the drawbars so a field armorer couldn't replace them (I was told this by one of their field armorers). When they ordered their new 4006TSW's, this time around they were ordered produced without trigger play springs.
Sometimes the spring tension against the back of the trigger's prongs may be reduced enough to allow the trigger prongs to tip upward at the front and slip above the top edge of the V-notch. Pulling the trigger brings them back down into the notch ... but produces that clicking sound.
I've been told by different factory folks throughout the years that while it's possible to have the SA trigger click occur in other calibers of the 3rd gen guns, it's most likely to occur in the .45/10 guns. Something about the dimensions and tolerances involved in the frame & drawbars in the .45/10's.
I have found it occurring in an occasional double column 59XX 9mm, though.
Anyway, while a slight adjustment of the trigger play spring can usually resolve this minor "click", it may not be a permanent fix.
The older style trigger pay spring, with the separate leaf springs on each side ("open" at the top of the spring), were somewhat stiffer than the current spring.
The current spring is connected across the top, and the side leafs are a bit less stiff. I've seen how if one side of an older version of the trigger play spring were to snap off, the remaining side could still be tensioning the spring (but I replaced the broken spring, anyway).
I'm not privy to why the engineers made the spring change from the separated sides to the connected sides, from thick/stiff to thinner/lighter, but the new style seems less likely to snap off, being more flexible and "forgiving".
Of course, excessively "adjusting" either style can accelerate the normal wear & tear on the spring, and even break them. Some caution would seem prudent in being over zealous in frequently "adjusting" the springs.
Anyway, the guns will run without them. The SA trigger will just have a bit more "slop" (forward & rearward), which probably wouldn't be noticed during the stresses of actual shooting ... unless someone was doing slow-fire target style shooting in SA. I remember firing approx 800+ rounds during 2 days of training & practice some years back, with a 6906, during which time the trigger play spring completely snapped off my gun. I was surprised to see it missing, as I hadn't felt anything different at all throughout my shooting.
Some years ago the CHP out here in CA apparently tired of shipping guns back to their Sacto gunsmiths to have the occasional broken trigger play spring removed, as I was told they removed the springs from all their guns and even drilled out the drawbars so a field armorer couldn't replace them (I was told this by one of their field armorers). When they ordered their new 4006TSW's, this time around they were ordered produced without trigger play springs.
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tobiasplayer
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CS40 Same problem but comes back
Hi All, I am new to the forum but not to S&W. Been a fan for over 20 years when I bought my first, a 915 when I turned 21. Anyways, I just purchased a used CS40 with the same trigger clicking and was impressed to find this forum which fixed the issue but only temporarily. The play spring seems to be fine, not broke, fairly stiff but fairly easy to adjust by pushing it forward slightly. It is the newer style spring that is connected together. Problem is I can take the gun out and fire it a few times and the problem comes right back. I know it is trivial, not really needed and by not fully releasing you never really know but I am a perfectionist and looking for a permanent fix. My model 915 that is over 20 years old and I have a 5906 that has never had this issue. Just wondering if anyone has seen this problem keep coming back and if there is a permanent solution. Thanks for any advice on this.
Hi All, I am new to the forum but not to S&W. Been a fan for over 20 years when I bought my first, a 915 when I turned 21. Anyways, I just purchased a used CS40 with the same trigger clicking and was impressed to find this forum which fixed the issue but only temporarily. The play spring seems to be fine, not broke, fairly stiff but fairly easy to adjust by pushing it forward slightly. It is the newer style spring that is connected together. Problem is I can take the gun out and fire it a few times and the problem comes right back. I know it is trivial, not really needed and by not fully releasing you never really know but I am a perfectionist and looking for a permanent fix. My model 915 that is over 20 years old and I have a 5906 that has never had this issue. Just wondering if anyone has seen this problem keep coming back and if there is a permanent solution. Thanks for any advice on this.
tobiasplayer
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Returning clicking trigger in CS40
Thanks for the reply, I wondered if maybe I was just not bending it enough not wanting to break it off. Last night in looking at it again I saw some rubbing marks on the bottom side of the barrel like maybe it had rubbed on something. I am not sure if it is possible for the barrel to touch this spring but if so maybe the recoil is causing the barrel to hit the play spring? I can cycle the action by hand as much as I want and the trigger click never comes back but if I fire the gun a few times the clicking comes right back again. Maybe my play spring is out of tolerance and sitting up too high causing it to touch the barrel in recoil? Still searching for answers if anyone has any insight. Thanks.
Thanks for the reply, I wondered if maybe I was just not bending it enough not wanting to break it off. Last night in looking at it again I saw some rubbing marks on the bottom side of the barrel like maybe it had rubbed on something. I am not sure if it is possible for the barrel to touch this spring but if so maybe the recoil is causing the barrel to hit the play spring? I can cycle the action by hand as much as I want and the trigger click never comes back but if I fire the gun a few times the clicking comes right back again. Maybe my play spring is out of tolerance and sitting up too high causing it to touch the barrel in recoil? Still searching for answers if anyone has any insight. Thanks.
QXSOUP
Member
--- Some years ago the CHP out here in CA apparently tired of shipping guns back to their Sacto gunsmiths to have the occasional broken trigger play spring removed, as I was told they removed the springs from all their guns and even drilled out the drawbars so a field armorer couldn't replace them (I was told this by one of their field armorers). When they ordered their new 4006TSW's, this time around they were ordered produced without trigger play springs. ---
I have a CA State Parks 4006 that has the spring drilled out as well.
I have a CA State Parks 4006 that has the spring drilled out as well.
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