New (to me) 640-1

Trojansteel

Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
33
Reaction score
50
Well, just picked up my first gun, and it's the J frame below. It's a 640-1. I think it's a 1995, since it's pre MIM. Put about 50 rounds through it over the weekend and it worked excellently. One question, when the cylinder is open, there is about a millimeter of back and forth play. When locked up, it's solid. Is a little play normal when opened?


a63d3462c52ea086dbce4a4d2e5cf324.jpg


6f901377385dc0890fe92c9121e69961.jpg



095cecd5ebd890f4be83c6b630fbc703.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Register to hide this ad
That's a nice one! Were you shooting .357's? I have the same frame in M60-9 and it has about 1/16" of travel with the cylinder open. Enjoy! PEN
 
That's a nice one! Were you shooting .357's? I have the same frame in M60-9 and it has about 1/16" of travel with the cylinder open. Enjoy! PEN



Thanks Pen [emoji106] I stuck to 38 specials. Will give .357s a try next time at the range.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
110gr .357 loads do well in a steel frame J-magnum like the 640. My Model 60 LadySmith loves them because they kick less than the 125gr and 158gr magnum loads. The 158gr CCI Blazer .357 "medium" load is also a good option in your gun. Enjoy!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
I've noticed burrs on the cylinder stop notches. What causes this? Is it a problem? And can I fix it?

73bb151dd6a0f069e4b93e22eb4a89fb.jpg



738f704732d193b5b55de8982fd84d5c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The timing of your cylinder rotation to a stopped position is off slightly. Have it corrected by a competent S&W pistolsmith. Only then have the cylinder de-burred at those raised places. ...........
 
Back
Top