New To Reloading powder question

Jwjarrett

Jwjarrett

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I've shot, off and on, for years, but I've never reloaded. I'm diving in soon, though and will start small with a small progressive or a single station. I'll be reloading for my own consumption target and defense loads.

I am starting with 380 ACP, 9mm and 40 S&W. Maybe 357 Sig later. I haven't studied much load data yet, so I have a long way to go. My first question is, what is a recommendation for powder, at least initially?

I'll have plenty more questions later.
 
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My recommendation as your 1st Purchase is at least 1 Reloading Manual I have quite a few My newest in The Lee Manual & it would be a good Starting Loading Manual & is not expensive, Study the Manual for Cartridges you intend to Load & see if you can come up with a couple of choices of Powder, Availability @ this time is not the best I load My 9mm using Bullseye or Unique there're other good choices,You will likely tire of loading pistol ammo on a single stage fairly quickly,Take a look @ Lee's Classic Turret Press It has A Cast Iron Base & Steel Linkage it has Auto Index that will speed things up a bit & can even be had in a fairly complete kit to get you started.
 
At present time, you will have to use what you can find. First thing would be to get at least 2 reloading manuals read them, especially the reloading introductions. The Lyman 50th and Hornady would be good places to start. Try to narrow down the bullets/weight you would like to use for each caliber; then see if there are any powders you could use for all, or most.

You are wanting to start reloading at a time when components are hard to come by. Without primers, you won't be loading anything! All here will answer your questions best we can. Good luck in your new hobby :-)
 
Often times people get off on the wrong foot by buying components and then deciding what to do with them.

First decide what your intended purpose is first. I would start with plinking loads first. There may be a delay in shipping but Extreme has had 124 grain 9mm plated round nose. 9mm brass is plentiful if you have difficulty finding some locally PM and I'll remedy that. Primers can be had but you will like pay a premium because of limited quantities and hazmat/shipping charges. The same for powder. But first of all before you do anything get one of the reloading manuals mentioned above.

Smiles,
 
Yes, it's going to be challenging right now, but I've located some Berry's preferred plated 165 grain Fp in .40 S&W. My local gun shop has brass, powder and some 9mm bullets. They also have a Lee Value 4 hole turret press a balance scale and extras. A little more expensive than online, but I'd rather support them. Starter press kits are almost impossible to find at a reasonable price. I'll start with a set of .40 dies and work into 9 as supplies are available. Long story short- I can locate everything but primers

I'm going shopping for 1 or 2 load manuals starting this evening. The more I spend, the more likely that my wife will use some of the reloads on me ...
 
You can't go wrong with the new 50th edition Lyman's reloading manual. The loads are safe / conservative, there is a great section on getting started in reloading, pistol and rifle data in one book that has jacketed and lead bullet loads. When you decide on what powder you will use, get that company's reloading manual. If you decide on a particular brand of jacketed bullets, their manual will be helpful.

I would not buy a Lee reloading manual. It has load data from about 1990 that is not safe with the powders manufactured today, specifically the data for Accurate Arms powder. This from my PERSONAL experience.
 
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Lyman Pistol and Revolver Handbook, 3rd edition - inexpensive and has everything you need to start.

I second the notion that you should pick a lighter plinking or range load and get some experience with that first. 9mm in particular has a small case volume and is not the place to start playing with heavy loads.

Since you're doing auto cartridges, you will definitely want a set of calipers for measuring cartridge overall length (COAL) and mouth diameter.

Bullseye and Unique are widely used powders and a good starting point.
 
mikerjf said:
Lyman Pistol and Revolver Handbook, 3rd edition - inexpensive and has everything you need to start.

I second the notion that you should pick a lighter plinking or range load and get some experience with that first. 9mm in particular has a small case volume and is not the place to start playing with heavy loads.

Since you're doing auto cartridges, you will definitely want a set of calipers for measuring cartridge overall length (COAL) and mouth diameter.

Bullseye and Unique are widely used powders and a good starting point.
Click to expand...

I'll be starting small, especially with the .40. No KBs. I already have good Mitutoyo calipers and micrometers. This first. Rounds will be very well prepped and measured. I have a 38 special, but that round just doesn't interest me at all. It would probably be a more forgiving starter, though.
 
If possible, get a sturdy bench with some room and have good lighting
to see what you are doing and a comfortable chair.
As mentioned, manuals to get an idea of loads, then finding powder and primers.

Good luck on your new venture.
 
W231 and HP 38...

.... are the same powder and popular and versatile for pistols.

You can look on powder manufacturers websites to see what they recommend. They have a reload section.

With Bullseye or other fast burning powders it's hard to see the little bit of powder in the bottom of the case and if you double charge it it's a hand grenade. I've used it forever but you gotta be really careful with it. Give the cases flashlight or depth(dowel) test before you seat the bullets.

i'd recommend plunking your cartridges in the barrel or a gauge after reloading. Each type of case has it's own quirks that can show up in reloading. Reloading .38 was a snap, but 9mm look me a long time to get the bugs out, especially if you're like me and load range brass and experiment with different bullet types and weights.
 
If I may suggest start with manuals, read and follow the instructions with each die set.

I've been loading for more than 35 years, way before the interwebs had the "How To" videos. Some of the videos are done well, but many have people demonstrating their ignorance of the subject matter.

People here are very helpful, don't worry about asking too many or dumb questions. ASK AWAY!

A local mentor is always great. I had one that's been gone for quite sometime. His first move was handing me a pile of manuals.

Also as posted by RWSMITH, those faster burning powders are less forgiving and difficult to see. You may want to invest in two different burn rate and smooth metering powders for a bit more safety and latitude in your calibers. My favorite all around is Universal. It yields good easy to see load densities and great plinking to moderate velocities in many applications.

The second would be something with a bit slower run rate. Accurate Arms #7 and Hodgdon Longshot yield good load densities and will allow you to load heavier .40 and 9 to higher velocities when desired.

CFE Pistol has some good numbers, but I've yet to use it.
 
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In regards to Manuals, IMO the Speer, Lee, and Lyman manuals are all excellent. However the Lee Manual has some excellent articles that go in depth on the various aspects of reloading that are great for those getting started in reloading.

Powders. Unique is a shotgun powder with rather poor metering characteristics and I do NOT recommend it for loading handgun ammo. Yeah, it will function but your thrown charges with have a 3 Sigma variation of +/- 0.50 grains. Starting out the one single powder that I would recommend for every caliber you will be loading is Hodgdon CFE Pistol. It meters very well and provides for velocities perfect for practice ammo. Note, I have run a Statistical Capability Study on every powder I load with so my stated variation for Unique is based on Science instead of "feel". I'll also point out that "Runs" are predictable with Statistics so claims of 5 o 10 in a row with a 1/10 grain variation means nothing because there will be Lurkers with a big variation.
 
Another fan of CFE Pistol. I stumbled on it while looking for a lower flash powder for 38 super. I’d been using 540/HS6 for years but it has a lot of flash with heavy loads. CFE pistol has very low flash, good velocities and accuracy and meters very well. I find it works well in 45LC, 357 mag, 380 and 38 super. I’ve not explored it in 45 acp or 9mm yet.

There are a lot of excellent powders. I’d suggest getting the manuals and selecting one powder and get to know it for a while before experimenting with other powders. Each powder has its own characteristics both good and bad. Also what’s good in one caliber might not be so good in another.

Enjoy and be safe.
 
The question right now is not what powder should I use but what powder can you get ....
I was at Cabela's Sunday ...NO handgun powders in stock ... No primers either .
They did have loading tools and manuals .

To get started a nice Kit put together by one of the manufacturer's is a good deal ... let your pocket book be your guide as to which kit to go with .
No matter if you go with a progressive loader you will always have a need for a good single stage press ... always the odd job that a progressive can't do without a lot of adjusting ...
I was looking at the Lee Challenger O-Frame press while at Cabela's and was impressed with the quality / cost ...might be one to consider ... It comes in 3 different kit forms .
Gary
 
I'll be the odd man out here . First press get a single stage to learn on . Avoid the temptation to go cheap on a press . Best 2 on the market are RCBS Rockchucker ( heavy duty cast iron , steel ram & handle mine has seen constant use since 1973 . ) Turret press the Redding T-7 has the same attributes & will last . Added plus they'll hold resale value that a cheap press will not . You'll need a scale for weighing powder charges again get a balance mechanical . Do Not go cheap on this either . Many good ones & many not so good . Powder measure get at least a Uni-flo , Lyman 55 or a Redding , good one will last & not leak . I could go on & on . IMHO Lee makes some decent stuff for the price point . Some of it's junk & best avoided . It's better to save up & buy best quality you can afford . Good tools produce better results , last a lifetime if you take care of them & will hold value way better than cheap .
 
scooter123 said:
Unique is a shotgun powder
Click to expand...

How do it know?

Unique is an excellent starting powder.

Bullseye is about the best light target load powder, but Unique has far broader application, up to full power loads.

Poor metering for Unique is an age old myth. It meters fine. It LOOKS LIKE it shouldn't, being round flakes. But it is fine.
 
Readily available right now is a powder called Power Pistol that I believe you will find recipes for with all the pistol calibers you mentioned. I have used it for years. It can have a lot of flash though.
 
I had been using this powder for 380 , that powder for 9mm and something else for 40S&W . I recently decided I needed a better plan . I went with Shooters World " Semi Auto Pistol Powder " to reload all 3 calibers . I really like it and in fact have bought some more . It is easily found at many on line suppliers . Shooters World load data is available on line . Good Luck , Regards Paul
 
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