New to revolvers, need some advice

[HighStrung]

So, I've recently taken an interest in revolvers but I know very little about them (models, etc.) and have a pretty limited experience actually shooting them (I've got a few hundred rounds through my dads .44 Blackhawk). I have held a few and find that the idea of owning one is growing on me. It won't be for daily carry as I plan to continue to carry my M&P40c, but more of just a nice gun to have. Just from looking at some pics on a few forum sites that I belong to, the Smith 340, 360, 629, and 642 are some that I like as well as the Taurus 605 and 85UL. The problem is that I don't have any idea what the difference in these revolvers actually is. So, based on the general size of these, what are some recommendations from you all. I don't know if I want something ultra lite or heavier, something 38 special or 357, etc. Right now I'm looking for advice and opinions on things I should look at. I'm guessing I'll be buying used and would like to keep the price under $400-500.

Also, if there are any sites that explain the differences in revolvers, I would greatly appriciate the link. Thanks in advance for all the help.

Edit in response to reply#3~"What I meant by a nice gun to have", something that is comfortable (I know that each person feels different about each gun and what fits you may not fit me) but I'd like to hear what you feel about the revolvers you own and how they "feel" to you so that I can focus my search a little. I'm a bigger fan of stainless than I am of blued. I'm partial to a more modern looking "performer" than I am of a "classical" look.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

If your gonna carry this new revolver in the pocket I would look towards the centennial airweights Models 642 = Stainless or 442 = Blued.. The 340 & 360 are Airlites & a bit more costly, the 629 is a 44 magnum stainless..
You should be able to buy a new 642/442 for $500 or less..
BTW there's a gunshow in North Vernon Indiana Saturady & Sunday at the Jennings County Fairgrounds on Hwy 3, I'll be there after noon Tomarrow sometime..
It'll be a small show but you never know what you missed unless you go..
Gary/Hk

 

[robertrwalsh]

I don't want to seem like I'm picking on you, but "just a nice gun to have" is sort of vague. I'd like to have a Ferrari and a Bentley, they are both very different vehicles.

That shot being taken (pardon the pun) a nice S&W K-frame .38 is not too shabby. Something like a model 19 or model 14. They are beautiful guns and if you get one that isn't all shot out (with a model 19 that's possible) they will serve you well for a long time. I admit to being partial to blue steel guns.

I'm sure many others will toss in their opinions, many of which will be more valuable than mine. Enjoy.

 

[StingrayG4]

I completely agree on the K frame suggestion. You can get a really nice model 10 for the money you're looking to spend.

-S

 

[RHINOWSO]

First, if you're new to revolvers think looking for a good, used S&W.

If it's not for carry, think Model 13/65 or 19/66, probably in 4" (3" if you can find it). By getting a 357, you can shoot 38SPL in it all day long.

Learn how to inspect a used revolver here on the forum and then start hitting the gunshows, pawn shops, etc. In the last couple months I've found great deals on older, but great shape K-frame guns.

If you buy new and then have a change of heart, you'll be out $$$. Especially going for a snubbie off the bat, they aren't the greatest to 'learn on'. Getting a larger gun will enhance your ability to learn with it, plus buying used you wont take a bath if you decide to eventually sell.

 

[BugEater]

Stainless models

Since you are new to revolvers, I will throw out a little info. on S&W.
First off, the model numbers are a bit confusing. A particular model is generally specific to a particular cartridge, frame, size & finish. For example, a model 10 is a 38spl in blue and a 64 is a 38spl in stainless. Both are medium sized "K" frames. There is one other frame in the medium size. It is the "L" frame which is just a bit beefier than the "K" frame to support the .357 cartridge. "J" frames are the small pocket sized frames and "N' are large frame .44 caliber type revolvers.

Generally speaking, .38spl & .357 rule the J,K,&L frames.
.44 cal and higher rule the N frame size

Since you mentioned stainless, you might look for a model number that starts with a 6. [rule of thumb but certainly not gospel] The number after the dash represents a series within that model number. For example, a 64-6 is the model 64 in the 6th series. That is to say, S&W made six "improvements" to the model since it was first introduced.

My advise [you get what you pay for], always shot for the middle when you just aren't sure. [all pun intended] A "K" frame .38 such as a model 64 or an "L" frame .357 such as a 686 and you just may fall in love with revolvers.

 

[downunder]

can some one help me out, is it safe to use 32s&w short ammo in a 32 s&w long pistol.... anyone????? i dnt knw if im in the right forum joind new, can some one help me out here

 

[fyimo]

First, if you're new to revolvers think looking for a good, used S&W.

If it's not for carry, think Model 13/65 or 19/66, probably in 4" (3" if you can find it). By getting a 357, you can shoot 38SPL in it all day long.

Learn how to inspect a used revolver here on the forum and then start hitting the gunshows, pawn shops, etc. In the last couple months I've found great deals on older, but great shape K-frame guns.

If you buy new and then have a change of heart, you'll be out $$$. Especially going for a snubbie off the bat, they aren't the greatest to 'learn on'. Getting a larger gun will enhance your ability to learn with it, plus buying used you wont take a bath if you decide to eventually sell.

+1 on what Rhino said about a snub nose is not the easiest thing to learn to shoot with. I also agree with buying a used S&W K frame as they will hold there value and be less expensive then a new one.

 

[HighStrung]

I'm not new to shooting/guns, just new to revolvers. My M&P40c has a 3.5" barrel so I wasn't expecting a snub to be that much more difficult.

 

[PMRet]

It won't be for daily carry as I plan to continue to carry my M&P40c, but more of just a nice gun to have.

I'm guessing I'll be buying used and would like to keep the price under $400-500.

I'm a bigger fan of stainless than I am of blued.

Based on these statements, to me the ultimate revolver to start with would be a used 4" Model 686, or you could spend even less and pick up a nice used 4" Model 65.

 

[scooter123]

I'm not new to shooting/guns, just new to revolvers. My M&P40c has a 3.5" barrel so I wasn't expecting a snub to be that much more difficult.

I would suggest that you try renting a revolver before making an assumption like this. In particular, try renting a 3 or 4 inch model 686 and shooting it with some full power 357 Magnums, it will be a real eye opener. Revolvers don't have a recoil absorbing slide cycling and the recoil of a full Magnum load in that 686 will make your M&P 40 feel like a 22 caliber in comparison. You'll also find the report is distinctly louder, especially in a snubbie.

As others have noted, a 4 inch K frame in 357 Magnum would be the best choice for a first wheelgun. IMO, they are a bit too light to make shooting 357 Magnums at the range comfortable but they are certainly useable for defense. In addition, they will be excellent guns for range practice with the much milder 38 spl. and are quite common on the used market. This means you should be looking for either a model 19 or 66 (I prefer the adjustable sight models). BTW, while the 4 inch versions are a bit difficult to conceal they are easy to find. If you want a concealable and happen on the 3 inch model 66 or 2 1/2 inch model 19, snap it up immediately because 500 dollars for these somewhat rarer guns is a real bargain.

 

[H Richard]

I'm with the majority, a K Frame 38 special, either a Mod 10 or a Mod 15 would be one of the best "all around" guns you can have to start with. Purchased used, in the $300 to $400 range for a nice one, you will not lose any money on it when (and if) time comes to trade it off on something else. With the adjustable sights, the Mod 15 is possibly a better choice if you desire to try different loads, (110 or 125 gr HP's or other loadings).

These are Mod 15's in a 2" and 4" version.

 

[RussellD]

Two good dealers to find a used K frame on line

1- Revolver

2. Summit Gun Broker

I have business with both and they offer a lot of gun for the dollar invested.

 

[Yurko]

I'm surprised no one has provided a link to the S&W Model changes page at handloads.com

Here's a good link to give you the different S&W models & what caliber they are, frame size, etc


Smith & Wesson model changes

 

[HighStrung]

I would suggest that you try renting a revolver before making an assumption like this. In particular, try renting a 3 or 4 inch model 686 and shooting it with some full power 357 Magnums, it will be a real eye opener. Revolvers don't have a recoil absorbing slide cycling and the recoil of a full Magnum load in that 686 will make your M&P 40 feel like a 22 caliber in comparison. You'll also find the report is distinctly louder, especially in a snubbie.

As others have noted, a 4 inch K frame in 357 Magnum would be the best choice for a first wheelgun. IMO, they are a bit too light to make shooting 357 Magnums at the range comfortable but they are certainly useable for defense. In addition, they will be excellent guns for range practice with the much milder 38 spl. and are quite common on the used market. This means you should be looking for either a model 19 or 66 (I prefer the adjustable sight models). BTW, while the 4 inch versions are a bit difficult to conceal they are easy to find. If you want a concealable and happen on the 3 inch model 66 or 2 1/2 inch model 19, snap it up immediately because 500 dollars for these somewhat rarer guns is a real bargain.

This is exactly the stuff I was looking for as far as insight into the revolver world. I guess I never considered the felt recoil difference due to the lack of a slide absorbing that recoil. Thanks for pointing that out. For that matter I've never fired a 357mag, though I have shot some 44mag and it was an eye opener, I wouldn't want to shoot them all day long. Keep the input coming folks, thanks again for all the suggestions. It sounds like popular opinion that I may want to stay away from a snub for the first revolver I buy and look more towards something around 4" which is okay. I won't be carrying it daily so concealing won't be an issue.

 

[230therapy]

I have to put in a plug for N-Frames!

I like the eight shot 357 Magnums and the S&W 625 in 45 ACP. The 625 is a really fun gun.