Newbie Barrel Shroud/ flash hider question

rt9bil

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Hey guys after months of saving I finally took ownership of a 15-22 talo on Monday. It's hard to express how much fun this gun is to own as well as shoot. As soon as I got it I began ordering up some accessories for it. I would like to order a barrel shroud from tacticool22, but have a couple questions. 1) Is there a barrel shroud that allows you to retain the handguard endcap? If so what length would it be? 2) I attempted to remove the flash hider using the 2x4/ vise method and the darn thing won't budge. This maybe a stupid question but which way is it threaded on? Counter clock wise looking down the barrel from the stock or counter clock wise from the flash hider end? Thanks for the help. Happy to join the forum.
 
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Thanks for the info guys. Will heating the barrel/ FH with a torch damage the black finish? Would a heat gun be effective?
 
Heat gun should work... you don't have to get it red hot if you use a torch... carefull if you do use the torch though...:D
 
Copied and pasted from my post in the barrel shroud pics thread. My first attempt to do this with a set of blocks without the cut out grooves didn't work. You gotta drill out the hole/groove and tighten the barrel down pretty hard. Almost to the point of the blocks breaking. I could not do this by hand by turning the vise bar so I used a rubber mallet to hit the bar and get the blocks clamped down super tight. That flash hider is on there tight as hell.

"Got two 2x4 blocks cut 4" wide, put 4 nickles on the corners of one block then sandwiched them with the other block to create some space/gap. I then tightened up my "sandwich" on the vice and used an 11/16th spade drill bit to drill a hole long ways through both blocks. I sanded the grooves a little to smooth it out then I went to town again on the barrel.

I used a rubber mallet to tighten the vise even more then I had done previously by hand. After a few good whacks on the wrench with the mallet it finally came loose!"

http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-15-22/307787-barrel-shroud-pics-2.html#post137229218
 
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Before you order a shroud, do some searching on the topic of removing the handguard endcap. Most would suggest that you are better off without the cap whether you have a shroud or not. This may or may not alter your opinion on which shroud you would want to purchase.
 
i kept my shroud/end cap - i just used a dremmel to hone it out to the right size
 
well guys, I appreciate the info. I have to report that I have officially given up trying to get the FH off. After breaking the wooden barrel clamps I made yesterday, I made some larger/ strong blocks today. I applied heat using a heat gun to the point where the whole barrel began to heat up and I got concerned about the polymer handguard. I used a mallet to tighten the vise and smacked the **** out of the wrench and nothing. The barrel continues to spin in the DIY clamps. I'm a little hesitant about continuing to tighten the vise. I don't want to deform the barrel. I think some tacticool22 vise clamps are about to get ordered or a trip to the local gunsmith.
 
well guys, I appreciate the info. I have to report that I have officially given up trying to get the FH off. After breaking the wooden barrel clamps I made yesterday, I made some larger/ strong blocks today. I applied heat using a heat gun to the point where the whole barrel began to heat up and I got concerned about the polymer handguard. I used a mallet to tighten the vise and smacked the **** out of the wrench and nothing. The barrel continues to spin in the DIY clamps. I'm a little hesitant about continuing to tighten the vise. I don't want to deform the barrel. I think some tacticool22 vise clamps are about to get ordered or a trip to the local gunsmith.
Trust me, I was thinking the exact same thing. Did you drill the hole in the blocks? This will create the surface contact around the barrel needed to get the right amount of grip and pressure on the barrel. The wood will give way before the barrel does.
 
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yea, I drilled a 5/8" hole in a piece of 2x4 then cut it down the middle. I also placed a piece of thin foam/rubber (the stuff that goes in the bottom of a drawer) between the wood and barrel to protect the finish. Think the foam/rubber is the problem? This is bugging the heck out of me now.
 
You are going to eventually want to get that FH off. sooner or later you will need to remove the barrel to give that weapon a good cleaning, and if not for cleaning you may need to tighten the barrel nut. I do believe that the Tacticool barrel nut tool can be used with the flash hider on, but I do not have one and can not tell you this 100% for sure. Maybe someone with one can chime in on that. I to would like to know.
 
yea, I drilled a 5/8" hole in a piece of 2x4 then cut it down the middle. I also placed a piece of thin foam/rubber (the stuff that goes in the bottom of a drawer) between the wood and barrel to protect the finish. Think the foam/rubber is the problem? This is bugging the heck out of me now.

I would try it without the rubber. I didn't need anything but the wood. Sprinkle some of the saw dust into the groove or talcum powder.
 
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Also, how thick was the blade that you used to cut the woods in half? The space/gap might not have been enough to allow the wood to encircle the barrel and get a good grip. That's why I used nickels. Since you already cut them you might need to shave off a 16th or less off the blocks on the groove side.
 
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You are going to eventually want to get that FH off. sooner or later you will need to remove the barrel to give that weapon a good cleaning, and if not for cleaning you may need to tighten the barrel nut. I do believe that the Tacticool barrel nut tool can be used with the flash hider on, but I do not have one and can not tell you this 100% for sure. Maybe someone with one can chime in on that. I to would like to know.

The FH has to be removed in order to take out the handguard end piece which will then allow you to use the barrel nut tool.
 
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If you guys like to tinker, I would highly recommend a gunsmith/guitar vise. I have one that I bought at Stewart-McDonald Guitar Supply with wood jaws that have a 1/8" neoprene pad attached. I clamped my barrel in my vise and the flash hider screwed off with no problem. Go to Northern Tool or Harbor Freight and buy a heavy duty stand for around $50.00. Well worth the investment if you do much work on your guns. Really nice for installing sights on handguns too. This is the one that I have: STEWMAC.COM : Guitar Repair Vise
62_Guitar_Repair_Vise_Detail2_1.jpg
 
Instead of foam rubber try using an old leather belt... has worked for some people here... good luck...
 
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