Newbie Caster. Guidance Needed

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Raddoc

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I've reloaded cartridges for years, and have always dabbled with the idea of casting my own, but never had a solid lead supply to work with. That has changed, and I'm privvy to an abundance of lead. Having never casted before, I'm planning on referring to the casting section of the manuals I have, but Would love input on 3 specific molds for ,.358, .410, and .430 projectiles in 158, 210 and 240 gr varieties. Also, what relatively inexpensive cauldron would yous recommend?

blessings,

Jack
 
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Raddoc said:
I've reloaded cartridges for years, and have always dabbled with the idea of casting my own, but never had a solid lead supply to work with. That has changed, and I'm privvy to an abundance of lead. Having never casted before, I'm planning on referring to the casting section of the manuals I have, but Would love input on 3 specific molds for ,.358, .410, and .430 projectiles in 158, 210 and 240 gr varieties. Also, what relatively inexpensive cauldron would yous recommend?

blessings,

Jack
Click to expand...

Pure lead doesn't fill out the molds well. Need tin added to it. I forget the recommended amount. I like Lee molds, they are cheap and work well for me. I started using Lee Alox lube then switched to powder coating. You don't have leading issues with powder coating, no smoke when shooting and it upsizes undersized boolits.

Rosewood
 
I would also recommend Lee Molds, Tumble Lube molds work good and you don't have to buy a separate bullet lubricating tool. I have used them for years for .38/.357 (.358 diameter 158 grain), .429 240 grain for .44 Magnum, and 124 grain 9MM bullets, thousands of them. I sit down about twice a year and cast 1000 each of the above.

I use a bottom pour Lee pot that has been trouble free, I think they are about $85 from Midway USA.
 
I started out with a iron frying pan on a Coleman Camp Stove, with a lead dipper. Did that for quite a while, then progressed to a bottom pour lead pot. Just go slow and be careful. As you get experience you will figure out just how you want to do your casting. Do you know anyone that casts? If so talk to them and if possible watch them. The manuals and videos will help. Good Luck. I cast for nine different calibers, and that is nothing compared to some.......
 
You should ask yourself how far you think you'll transition to your own cast lead.
Your best guess here does more to form up your equipment list than anything.
If I had it to do over again, I'd likely have gone straight to coatings rather than traditional lube or alox tumble lube.
It's easy enough and only needs a cheap toaster oven.
One could make due with an iron pot and a ladle, but bottom pour pots are worth it.
Size isn't as much an issue as one might think.
If you score some small ingot molds or use large fishing sinker molds to form ingots, a pile of these hanging around can be added on the fly and recover heat fairly quickly.
 
For more consistent bullet weights, I found that filling the mold with a Lyman ladle and having a 1/2 to 5/8" sprue puddle worked best. I cast 350 Lyman 330 grain RN bullets for 38-55. 1 bullet was 1 grain out! 7 bullets were 1/2 grain out! All ithers weighed within 1/4 grain! in other words: 1 bullet was more than .0033% out of specks, 7 bullets were more than .0016% out of specks, and 342 bullets were within .0008% of intended weight.

I used a 10 pound Lee production pot to cast bullets for sale on 124 gr 9mm RN bullets were +/- 2%!

Lyman loading manuals have ratios of lead/tin/antimony and recipes to get those ratios in the "How to Cast" section. For run in the mill bullets Lyman #2 and Wheel Weights are very common, but those are too hard for slow target bullets.

If I was only going to own 1 mold for each diameter of revolver it would be a semi wadcutter. I would spend the money and buy new or used Lyman, RCBS or SACO two cavity molds. (this is over twice what new Lee moulds will run) But the expense is worth it! I own around 90 molds, 7 are Lee! The rest are Lyman or the predecessor, Ideal (Making them 85 years old or more!)

Ivan
 
My favorite are probably the RCBS molds. Can't help you with the .430 but the RCBS 41-215-SWC and the RCBS .38-158-SWC would be what I would go with. Lyman makes equivalent molds as I am sure Accurate and MP Molds also does, as they are a common design. Whichever one you can find at the best price.

Lee molds work but I don't care much for aluminum molds, however they are an inexpensive way to give it a try. They do work. You're not out much if they don't work for you. A Lee .41 215 SWC goes for less than $40. Used on eBay even less.

The Lee bottom pour furnaces are defiantly the best bang for the buck.
 
Two cavity molds work , I have Lyman, Saeco, RCBS, etc… but 5 and 6 cavity molds are my favorite. My LEE molds are not as nice as my NOE molds, but they do work the same. The bottom pour pots are good, though my Lyman does drip occasionally.
Always wear safety glasses and have good ventilation.
I also recommend the Lyman cast bullet handbook. It's an excellent read with good lead data.
Good luck and happy casting.
David
 
I have primarily used RCBS and Lyman molds. Tried a Lee aluminum mold in the 80's that didn't work well for me. Fast forward to last year and I had to get a Lee mold out of necessity. Turned out lots of good bullets. Bought two more Lee's, more good bullets. I'm on my third Lee lead pot in the past 35 years, they work. I recommend the Pro 4 20# pot.

Pro 4 20lb - Lee Precision
 
I would start with a minimum of a 10 lb pot, 20 is better. I like dippers and believe I get better quality with a Lyman or RCBS dipper. The Lee "dipper" is more of a skimmer and holds about 1/3 what the others do. I would buy one lee mold, probably a 38 Wadcutter or SWC. I would run it until I knew for sure that casting was for me. I would then buy 4 cavity molds from NOE, Accurate or Arsenal. They each make quality molds from hard aluminum that are fast and long lasting.

Tumble lube your first batches and then see about powder coating. It requires a toaster oven but that is cheaper than a lube sizer.
I have three lube sizers and could easily make do with one for what I currently do is PC most stuff. {THIS IS NOT AN OFFER TO SELL}.

Pure lead can easily be hardened with Roto metals alloys. They have something there for easy transition to pistol alloys or hard rifle. If you are East of the Missouri, pewter is often found at garage sales and can make an inexpensive alloy with pure.
 
Been casting since 1975. 100% Lee dies. They heat up fast and my second drop usually goes into inventory. With steel dies you may have to throw away the first 50 before you get a good one (just my experience).

Two cavity molds suit me best.

A Lee bottom pour pot works well. Mine is ~30 years old and still works fine. Using a ladle is time consuming and just another piece of equipment that needs to be heated up.

A 10# pot suits me. I like to take a break once in awhile, and the time it takes to remelt another batch fits into my schedule nicely. 10# will m make over 400 158 gr. Kieth's.

I used Lyman #2 lead allow for years. (you can google the formula or look in a Lyman manual) I had a huge supply of pure lead and printer's Linotype, so I would weigh out the proper formula. Then, I found a supply of wheel weights. They are slightly softer than #2 alloy, but they are outstanding used straight in all of my calibers, rifle and pistol. I also find them to be quite consistent from batch to batch.
 
Raddoc said:
I've reloaded cartridges for years, and have always dabbled with the idea of casting my own...
Click to expand...
I am about to jump in myself. I bought a Lee Pro-4 furnace, a couple molds, handles, dipper, ingot pan, etc all from Lee. For now I am just going to try .358 tumble lube wadcutters and flat nosed 170's for 30-30. I am going to start with wheel weights and once fired bullets.
Good luck with your project!
 
I started with a Coleman stove, a stainless steel pot, a slotted spoon, a Lee ladle and a Lee mold (240 gr SWC). I pan lubed and sized with a Lee kit (long discontinued). I fluxed with candle wax and stirred with a paint stick. Made enough bullets to keep my 44 Magnums fed for about a year-18 months then bought a Lee Pro4 electric pot. It really doesn't take much to get started.

I would suggest along with "From Ingot to Target" a copy of Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook (I prefer the 3rd Edition over the 4th) and hang out at Cast Boolits . Every aspect of lead bullet use is covered quite well there...
 
rosewood said:
Recently got a 6 cavity dewc mold for 38. Man, you get so much more done than the 2 cavity molds. I may be upgrading others.
Click to expand...

Yes. The 6 cavity mold cranks them out. I made a small mountain of DEWC's earlier this week from my 6 cavity Lee mold.
HOWEVER. I'm thinking of buying a 2 cavity version of the same mold. I get much better accuracy from 2 cavity molds.
I use the 2 cavity Lee 124 grain TCTL mold to make boolits for my Rossi 357 lever rifle. It's a 9mm design but I powder coat them. They shoot good out to 200 yards.
 
You don't need much to cast. Enough stuff to cast will fit into a kitty litter bucket.
 

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Simple. BHN 12 to 15. Bullet diameter, .001" larger then barrel groove. Alloy temperature maximun till bullets are frosted, then drop it a bit.

50/50 lube or Lee Alox. Iron molds better then* Lee molds.

Cast bullets undersize? Add linotype for larger & harder.
 
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My advice is to run screaming to the hills. It is like a drug, once you start you are looking for your next fix. First it will be 38/357. Then you will have soooo much fun you will be looking for other calibers, 44 special, 45 Colt/Casull/460 mag. Then you will think to yourself, gosh, I could do rifle rounds also. Then you will look at your rifle collection and say I could do those too. Then you will find a mold for a gun you don't own and you will say, "I need to get a gun for that mold." It is a never ending spiral.

DON'T DO IT MAN, just resist. Stay strong for the rest of us casting addicts.
 
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