Newbie needs help with .45 ACP

The only thing I can add to this is check your consistency. It’s easy to not put the same pressure on the arm with each stroke when you get moving right along. There is a certain amount of slop movement in the Classic Turret’s turret head but it’s a very repeatable amount of movement that shouldn’t be feared. But if you don’t put the same amount of pressure on the swing arm each time and ensure to bottom out the stroke then that COAL will start to vary more and more. I think we get wrapped up on what press can make how much ammo how fast but I always try to remind myself it’s not a contest of quantity; it’s a desire for quality long before I get into high volume. If I’m very quickly making so-so ammo then that’s missing most of the point of rolling your own. So even when I fire up the Hornady LNL AP I still try to make sure I stay slow enough that I’m both monitoring for discrepancy like a weak or heavy powder drop and pausing to inspect the ammo every tenth plunk into the tray.
 
The .45 Auto cartridge and 231/HP38 seem to be an almost perfect match. Of the powders mentioned above, it is my first choice, but the others are good, too. I would guess an awfully big pile of 700X has been used in .45 Auto loads over many years, and of course using Unique is not the worst thing you can do.

My biggest objection to .45 Auto handloading is the combinations that "work the gun too hard." There has always been a camp that believes the 1911 was made to fire a 230 at 850 FPS and that is what it should do - and no more! I occasionally become tempted to step in as unappointed acting-president of that camp, when others are not available, but honestly, it is probably an old-fashioned notion. :)

With modern powders like Longshot, the .45 may be good for 1000 FPS, and you may be able to find more than a few engineers who will tell you that the difference can be offset with springs, without harm to the gun. I'll just stay with 850 FPS. To each, his own.
 
M29,
I agree BUT, when you put that 45ACP cartridge into a revolver, like an "N" frame Smith, THEN you can run that puppy right on up there.

I have a 240gr LSWC load that develops right at 1100fps from my M625JM! No pressure signs and that thing hits pins like a sledge hammer! Or, anything else for that matter! :D
 
These are lots of fun to shoot in the Tommy Gun!
200grMihecCramer5_6grAA21_188OAL45ACP.jpg

Shoot like a dream from my 1911 too!
 
Is that yours?


You betcha!!:) I had a thread in the lounge on it but deleted the pictures.

I hate to say, I like it better than my SW 1911. I think it's better made and tad more accurate. Has not missed a beat with all kinds of ammo. Even LSWC;)

Not quite up to the Dan Wesson PointMan 7 but half the price.
 
I'm still in love with the plunger tube being part of the frame on the Ruger model. That was a long time coming.
 
I'm still in love with the plunger tube being part of the frame on the Ruger model. That was a long time coming.

Yep, never have to re stake that one. I did on my expensive Dan Wesson. Glad the local GS is my neighbor he did it for free. Got to have that special damn tool.
 
I worry about that because I prefer thin grip panels so the Ruger may be the first real non Colt 1911 I ever buy. Add to that they are finally offering a Commander length SR1911. I hope to find one but have to cough up the money first! That and a new .480 Alaskan are on my wishlist for this year!!!
 
I'm still in love with the plunger tube being part of the frame on the Ruger model. That was a long time coming.

I'd probably have a Ruger if they had come out before I purchased my S&W. Although Ruger hasn't offered one with adjustable sights yet. Still won't be getting rid of my S&W.

DSC01660.jpg


Can't wait to see Ruger's Commander version...
6702.jpg
 
Wow everyone a lot of great points and you have given me much to ponder over. I have so much to learn, and look forward to it eagerly.

MaximumBob,
I will definitely start paying close attention to my swing arm movement to ensure I am getting a more consistent pressure and right now I am moving very slowly as I'm still in the weigh every powder charge stage. But I will certainly heed your advice and aim for quality not quantity. I look at it as a way to spend some fun and relaxing time in the man cave.

M29,
You make an excellent point and I must admit that I wasn't paying too much attention to velocity initially. Let me take just a moment to pull my head out of my butt and say thank you. I certainly have no desire at all to push the envelope on velocity out of my favorite gun. So far I have only loaded some rounds with 6.1 grains of Longshot but will certainly double check all and make sure I am staying below the 850.

Mr. Sackett,
As always thank-you very much for your invaluable insights as well. I will definitely work up some loads with Unique tomorrow and being that it sounds like I may be near Cabela's this weekend It seems like it would only make sense to pick up some 231 or HP38 sounds like that is the way to go.

I can't thank you guys enough. This sure is a great forum.

Joe
 
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Hey Everyone,
Just a quick update, I hit the local gun shop today and they were all out of 231 but I managed to get the next to last bottle of HP-38. Look at the data in my Lee Manual and 2013 Hodgdon Annual I will work up some loads as follows. I'm using the cast lead data for the Berry's Plated.

Mixed Brass Trimmed to .893"
Berry's Plated 230 gr RN .452"
Min. OAL - of 1.200" as per Lee and Hodgdons
HP-38 starting at 4.3 Vel: 699
then work up to 5.0 gr

I am going to make up a number of dummy rounds and do the plunk test and the marker test before I do any live rounds. I am also going to do some more math from the Lee manual to see if I grasp the pressure changes a little better.

The most confusing part is the Min. OAL, they don't give you the dimensions of the bullet other than the diameter, but if I understand correctly if they used a 230 gr LRN that is shorter than my Berry's Plated 230 gr RN and then they both get loaded to the same OAL my pressure is going to be higher. I guess it would be easier to grasp as a new guy if they also gave bullet length.

Lastly here is a picture of my baby,

Thank-you,
Joe
 

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Hey Everyone,
Just a quick update, I hit the local gun shop today and they were all out of 231 but I managed to get the next to last bottle of HP-38. Look at the data in my Lee Manual and 2013 Hodgdon Annual I will work up some loads as follows. I'm using the cast lead data for the Berry's Plated.

Mixed Brass Trimmed to .893"
Berry's Plated 230 gr RN .452"
Min. OAL - of 1.200" as per Lee and Hodgdons
HP-38 starting at 4.3 Vel: 699
then work up to 5.0 gr

I am going to make up a number of dummy rounds and do the plunk test and the marker test before I do any live rounds. I am also going to do some more math from the Lee manual to see if I grasp the pressure changes a little better.

The most confusing part is the Min. OAL, they don't give you the dimensions of the bullet other than the diameter, but if I understand correctly if they used a 230 gr LRN that is shorter than my Berry's Plated 230 gr RN and then they both get loaded to the same OAL my pressure is going to be higher. I guess it would be easier to grasp as a new guy if they also gave bullet length.

Lastly here is a picture of my baby,

Thank-you,
Joe

That's a nice pistol Joe. I finally got one about a month ago after looking for a long while. I really like mine. I shot a bunch of 200 grain LSWC today at the range and it is a hole punchin' machine:)

I think you will like the HP-38. It is a great powder for the .45acp. I have loaded quite a few powders in this caliber,Win Auto Comp, AA#5, Unique, Titegroup and 231/HP-38. I like the ball powders best for metering through my powder measures and probably use more HP-38 than any other. I shoot target speeds only. I have other guns for high velocity.

I tend to keep my 230 grain RN bullets at around 1.250. They chamber in all my .45s and I try to stay away from high pressures. Like some have said already, you will get some variation on your COL, due to bullet shape and case demensions, it is to be expected. Just keep an eye on the lengths to prevent a chambering or pressure problem.
Enjoy your new blaster and reloading for it.:)
 
+1 on the 1.25. Are you using the Lee 3-die or the 4-die set? The 3-die set seats and crimps in the same die and the 0.03 variation would be common. You can get a little closer with the 4-die set because you can back the seating die off so it doesn't crimp and do your crimping with the 4th die, which is the factory crimp and size die.
 
We have a couple of 1911's with match barrels and chambers and found that the factory crimp/sizing die make a world of difference for chambering and extraction. The bulge is not uncommon, but the sizing die helps.
 
Newbie reloading .45 ACP

One of the quick fixes to the bulge in the cases is the Lee Bulge Buster setup...I use it on almost all of my semi-auto cases...it's an additional step but since doing it I've not had a stuck case or failure to feed because of the bulge...just a thought...good luck on your reloading...been doing it for over thirty years and it's the only way I can afford to shoot regularly...
 
Joe,
Sounds like you're doing pretty much everything right. As others have pointed out, don't get too crazy about the overall case length - it's going to vary some, and the variances you reported aren't bad at all. As far as avoiding pressure spikes, the two obvious biggies are 1) too much powder (duh!) and 2) OAL so long that the bullet is engaged with the rifling. The plunk test should check for this, but I'd buy a case gauge. They're not that expensive, and give a lot of peace of mind.

I remember when I first started loading the .45 ACP in 1976, and I sweated bullets over cleaning out primer pockets, trimming case lengths, weighing every charge twice, and randomly weighing bullets, just to be sure. Now I tumble the cases to make them pretty, use whatever large pistol primers I have on hand, and weigh the 1st 5 charges to make sure everything is working right, check the finished product against a case gauge, and crank 'em out on the Dillon (highly recommended by the way). I almost always set my powder loads at halfway between the recommended minimum and maximum. Unless you're in competition target shooting, you'll never notice any variations in accuracy.

I like WW 231 a lot, as it's economical and can be used in a variety of pistol cartridges. My only concern with it is that it uses so little that you might not notice an accidental double charge. Unique takes a larger volume, and might prevent that. Just stay focused while you're reloading and you'll do fine. I prefer copper plated bullets, as they don't lead up the barrel as bad as lead, and are a LITTLE cheaper than FMJ. I shoot mostly 200g SWC bullets. Right now I've got a bunch of 200g SWC Lead bullets over 5.6 WW231 at 1.250 OAL, and they work just fine through my Commander and Gov't model. Just FYI, I tried 200 g SWC copper plate bullets from Ranier, and they turned my pistols into jam-o-matics. I have absolutely no idea why, as they looked identical to the lead bullets in that weight/design I had been using. Maybe a fluke.

And, yes, I remember the time I shot my first reload. I was behind a tree and stuck my arm around it to keep the tree between me and my face. :)
 
Hey everyone seems like I have developed a new problem this evening, I'm trouble shooting it now, but after I seat the bullet I get little indentation and bulge just below the bottom of the bullet that goes about half way around the case. Does it on about 1 out of every 4 or 5 rounds and almost looks like a smiley face on the side of the case. Basically I guess when I seat the bullet I am buckling the wall on one side of the case.


Jim28080,
Thank-you very much and yes I definitely love the SR1911 and it certainly is a tack driver. Wish I could carry it as my duty weapon. After messing around a lot today and doing the plunk test on a number of dummy rounds and marking the rounds with a pen I am loading some at the 1.250" with the HP-38 starting at 4.3 grains and will work up to about 5.0.

Hi Russ45,
I am using the 4 die set and only seating with the 3rd die and crimping with the 4th die, the factory crimp die. I'm only doing about a 1/2 turn on the crimp.

Pineapplewilly,
Thank you for the info on the bulge buster I will pick one up at cabelas this Sunday and definitely give it a try. Now I am actually buckling a few cases and can't figure out why.

Hi APD148,
Thank you very much for your insights and I tried to grab case gauge yesterday but everybody around here is out of everything, so hopefully I can pick one up at Cabelas. But until then will definitely keep up on the plunk test. I looked at the Raniers as well but went with the berrys just because they seemed to have more positive reviews. Hopefully I will have good luck with them as well because I do like the price. For my first loads with HP-38 I am going with the 1.250 starting at 4.3 gr and working up to about 5.0 or 5.1 with this first set. Liked the story about the tree you had me laughing and got me thinking suppose it would seem odd if I walked into the range with my full heavy kit on and a ballistic shield. Just kidding, plan on heading to the range to try them out Saturday morning. Thank-you


Thank-you everyone, have a good weekend all.

Joe
 
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