Newer blued guns and Hoppes no. 9

LEW1943

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Occasionally I come across posts on this forum that advise against using Hoppes 9 on newer blued Smiths. I have been using it on my 586-8 for the past 3.5 years and have not noticed any issues thus far. Used mostly in the bore, forcing cone area, and cylinder face with a bronze brush. Would like to hear from others with regard to their experience.

Thanks in advance for your inputs!

Lew
 
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Hoppe's old No.9 is old, smells and is unhealthy and doesn't work nearly as well as newer stuff. Used it for 40 years. Then I got wise and used their Elite brand. Works a lot faster, does not smell and wont give you cancer. Saves me loads of time cleaning bores. Zero issues with finishes.
 
They changed the formula several years ago. My understanding is that the older formulation contained ammonia, and that's what caused the issues with the newer finishes. If I'm not mistaken, the S&W manual warns against using ammoniated solvents. Check the ingredients on your bottle. Chances are, ammonia is not one of the ingredients.

Even with the older formula, it probably helps if you don't soak your gun in it.

With that said, I currently use MPro7 as a cleaner and Lubriplate for lube since they're non-toxic.
 
I remember Hoppes Nitro Solvent dad used on his shotgun ,that stuff was very potent . Hoppes now is mostly oil, kerosene with small % watered down ammonia.
 
Hoppe’s No9

I love the smell; it takes me right back to my childhood. I am sure there are better, more modern cleaners out there for removing copper deposits in rifles
but Hoppe’s No9 is still fine for just getting powder residue out of handgun barrels.

My wife wanted a fragrance with a number on it for her birthday, so I got her a bottle of Hoppe’s No9...Much cheaper than Chanel No5...Willyboy
 
Been a few years, but a friend gave me his Smith. 22 m41 I think I, to play with. Total junk, not safe to shoot, and my old hoppes took the bluing off the barrel.

If he still has it i,ll try to get soom pics
 
I use Hoppe's No. 9 for cleaning my Model 10-5 & Model 58. Both have been re-blued by Smith & Wesson within the last four years. I clean the entire weapon and then wipe away excess. I leave a liberal coating in the bore overnight to bring out any fouling. This has had no deleterious effect on the finish of either revolver.

This system has stood the test of time for me. Others may know more though.

HTH.

JPJ
 
It's probably just another Urban Legend, like WD-40 resulting in Bluing turning Plum-colored.

That being said, there are more modern cleaners which do a better job, are non-toxic, and won't damage any kind of finish or material whatsoever, so there's no need to worry about anything while cleaning your guns.

Personally, I'm quite partial to Balistol and Frog Lube CLP, albeit the later is better used as a lubricant than as a cleaning solution, and the directions absolutely must be followed and used sparingly, otherwise it can gum up your firearm.
 
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2 parts Shooters Choice and 1 part Kroil mix. Been using it forever and it works great.
 
Been a few years, but a friend gave me his Smith. 22 m41 I think I, to play with. Total junk, not safe to shoot, and my old hoppes took the bluing off the barrel.

If he still has it i,ll try to get soom pics
I’ve had that happen as well, but only on guns that were touched-up with cold blue. I’ve used Hoppe’s #9 as a gentle cleaner for decades and it hasn’t harmed hot or rust bluing.
 
I remember Hoppes Nitro Solvent dad used on his shotgun ,that stuff was very potent . Hoppes now is mostly oil, kerosene with small % watered down ammonia.
Nitro was very potent because it contained nitrobenzene. Unfortunately, it was very potent on humans, too.
It doesn't take fancy chemicals to do basic cleaning. Mineral spirits does a fine job of removing powder fouling.
 
Never heard of a problem with Hoppes and blued finish, but supposedly Hoppes and nickel finishes were a problem as the solvent could attack the underlying copper.
 
Never heard of a problem with Hoppes and blued finish, but supposedly Hoppes and nickel finishes were a problem as the solvent could attack the underlying copper.


Not a problem with S&W's nickel finishes, no copper layer, just the base metal and nickel.



I have not had any problems with Hoppe's #9 and when I started, it was still Nitro #9. Then again, my blued firearms are old, I think the "newest" is a Taurus Model 96 that I bought in the mid-1990's.
 
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