Any of the methods mentioned will work well. Two key things to remember will help: first, make sure you thoroughly remove all traces of cleaning solvent before applying oil/wax/silicone. This applies to any cleaning solvent - period (see more below). Second, remove the stocks to ensure the surface beneath them is clean and dry. Some stocks, especially those made of rubber, have a tendency to trap moisture and thus promote rust.
Store your revolver in a dry area, such as a safe with a dehumidifier rod, and make sure it doesn't rest up against anything that will trap or hold moisture. The S&W paper works well for this, providing a barrier between the gun and anything that may interact with the plating.
Here is my reasoning behind the 'remove all solvent' statement made above. The key word in cleaning solvent is that word 'solvent'. No matter the cleaning product, it works by either dissolving the material you wish to remove, or by working it's way underneath it to loosen the material. Despite what the solvent manufacturers say, their product may or may not be safe for long term exposure to plated surfaces. Will that claim do you (or your children if you pass your firearms on) 50 years from now, if you find out the solvent turns you shinny nickle surface dull or even worse, causes it to start to peel and flake off? The plating process is very different than bluing. Bluing effects the surface of the steel, plating is attached to the surface via an electrolysis process, so unlike bluing, you are relying on the bond between the metal surface and the nickle to remain intact. If something has even the remotest possibility to effect that bond, I'd stay clear of it. Microscopic nicks in the nickle from use and handling act as access points for moisture and solvents, which is why thorough 'cleaning' after cleaning is necessary.
