I have a USFA Colt clone that I damaged the nickel finish on. I used Powder Blast cleaner on it and it allowed moisture to condense on the surface clouding the nickel finish on the cylinder and window in the frame. The nickel grayed so I assume it will need to be replated. Any chance it would polish out, or has it changed the finish?
Nickel finish damaged
- Thread starter sar4937
- Start date
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OP
Will the Flitz leave swirl marks? The finish has no scratches, and is like a mirror.
fat tom
Absent Comrade
No swirl marks.
f.t.
f.t.
PowderBlast only has Citrus oil and some other "enviornmentally friendly' cleaners in it so says their ad.
That nickel plate would have been awfully thin or improperly plated to have been removed with a blast from that I'd think.
If it's the base steel you're looking at, it will take cold blue,,nickel will not. So if you have some, a small dot onto the surface will tell you if it's still nickel you're looking at or if it's indeed gone.
If it's the nickel and it's just discolored/scratched to a grey color from the PowderBlast, then a repolish should bring the shine back up. Flitz or Simichrome used carefully by hand will most likely do it.
When originally plated, the (electro)nickle plate was power buffed to bring up the shine as the parts look dull and uneven when first out of the plateing solution. It's pretty tough stuff if applied correctly.
That nickel plate would have been awfully thin or improperly plated to have been removed with a blast from that I'd think.
If it's the base steel you're looking at, it will take cold blue,,nickel will not. So if you have some, a small dot onto the surface will tell you if it's still nickel you're looking at or if it's indeed gone.
If it's the nickel and it's just discolored/scratched to a grey color from the PowderBlast, then a repolish should bring the shine back up. Flitz or Simichrome used carefully by hand will most likely do it.
When originally plated, the (electro)nickle plate was power buffed to bring up the shine as the parts look dull and uneven when first out of the plateing solution. It's pretty tough stuff if applied correctly.
OP
What I think happened was that the cleaner gets the metal so cold that water condenses on it. I wiped the gun down with gun oil but did not remove the cylinder to oil, and it was left with moisture on the surface. I now blow dry them with compressed air. A blued gun would have rusted. Powder Blast comes out like freeze mist and will get my hands very cold even through nitrile gloves. And I don't think USFA is going to buy the idea their nickel job was crap. I live in a high humidity area.
Nickel plate shouldn't be effected by moisture left on the surface. That's the idea of it,,, nickel is rust proof. As long as it's not scratched through or worn through to the base metal (steel) below it, you won't get any rust.
I've seen alot of 'crap' plating jobs. A shot of an aerosol gun scrubber type cleaner no matter how cold it is should not remove a properly applied nickle plate.
If the cleaner has something abrasive in it, it may have cut the polish of the nickel finish down to a grey look. If the finish was poorly applied and the cleaner had a tiny amount of abrasive it it, I could see where it might remove it.
I've seen alot of 'crap' plating jobs. A shot of an aerosol gun scrubber type cleaner no matter how cold it is should not remove a properly applied nickle plate.
If the cleaner has something abrasive in it, it may have cut the polish of the nickel finish down to a grey look. If the finish was poorly applied and the cleaner had a tiny amount of abrasive it it, I could see where it might remove it.
OP
Powder Blast if very much like automotive brake cleaner. I have noticed water condensing on my plastic guns after cleaning, and because of our humidity they will stay wet for quite a while. This is a special gun to me, and it took 1 1/2 incredible years for USFA to complete it. It will not be going back to them if a replate is needed. It has been shot once, and this issue developed after cleaning and storing away. The powder blast was used to clean the cylinder face of powder residue, I assumed that it would evaporate and now I know better. The damage occured under the top strap and at the bottom of the window discoloring the frame in those area as well as the cylinder in two areas 180 degrees apart. I am going to try some Flitz if I can find some on my trip to town today.
shovelwrench
Member
I'd like to see some pics of the damage. Macro if you can.
You gotta watch those spray can cleaners on plastic too, they can weaken and even melt plastic parts.
You gotta watch those spray can cleaners on plastic too, they can weaken and even melt plastic parts.
