Nickel Maintenance

What are the best practices for maintaining the nickel finish on revolvers?

In my opinion, if it is 'clean' to your satisfaction, I would de-grease/de-oil it and give it a couple coats of Rennissance Wax or Johnson's Paste wax. Ren Wax is my first choice.
If you think it needs a bit of cleaning, I would gently polish it with Flitz, then wax it.
Others may offer differing opinions, but this has worked well for me (on blue and nickel finishes).
I will let the picture support my suggestion:

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I have a nickel 19 only so experience is limited.

I don't use any ammonium based cleaning products and no Hoppes #9. Some will say different.

I wipe it down with a horn cleaning cloth I picked up from a music instrument store.

I believe wax is okay but I don't use it so not sure.
 
In my opinion, if it is 'clean' to your satisfaction, I would de-grease/de-oil it and give it a couple coats of Rennissance Wax or Johnson's Paste wax. Ren Wax is my first choice.
If you think it needs a bit of cleaning, I would gently polish it with Flitz, then wax it.
Others may differing opinions, but this has worked well for me (on blue and nickel finishes).
I will let the picture support my suggestion:

View attachment 643080

attachment.php

Thanks. What do you use to de-grease/de-oil?
 
Like said above ^^^^^ NO HOPPES #9! Not even on the satin nickle stuff like some older 638s or Colt 1911s!

I learned that the hard way, many years ago. I agree with wax, after cleaning with Ballistol (my preference). Easy on the Flitz, Renaissance wax is best.
 
I grow weary repeating it, but -- treat your nickel S&W exactly as you would a blued one and it will stay happy. Hoppe's will not harm it, since S&W has never copper-plated guns before nickel-plating, and the myth that they have is the source of the ridiculous no-Hoppe's idea.
 
I have several nickle handguns - all S&Ws. I didn't know there was a problem until I read it on the internet in recent times. All have been cleaned with Hoppes since about 1975. None have any issues.

I also have a bunch of milsurp rifles that I often fire with corrosive ammo. Always used Hoppes, not an ammonia based water cleaner. I didn't know that was bad when I bought them back in the 1970's.

I have dated women that wore Chanel #9. OK, but not a real fan. Not a long lasting relationship. After shooting with the wife, she smells like Hoppes #9. Been with her for 50 years now.....oooolalaaa.
 
Thanks, GypsmJim; I appreciate your experience dating back to 1975. I have had my nickel model 19 since 1976 and just hope to keep it looking as new as possible.
 
I've had many nickel S&Ws over the last fifty years. All but a couple I bought new. They are fired regularly and are cleaned with Hoppe's #9. I don't soak guns, only clean them.

Hoppe's has done no harm and the guns look like new. I don't wax or perform any ritualistic cleaning procedures. After cleaning, guns are wiped down with a lightly oiled (any oil) soft cloth.

The information regarding Hoppe's and nickel finish sounds as if it came from a YouTube crackerjack and the ill-informed or those lacking experience continue to repeat it.
 
Like said above ^^^^^ NO HOPPES #9! Not even on the satin nickle stuff like some older 638s or Colt 1911s!

I learned that the hard way, many years ago. I agree with wax, after cleaning with Ballistol (my preference). Easy on the Flitz, Renaissance wax is best.

Can you go into detail about your bad experience with Hoppe's #9 and nickel?
 
That's what I do. It seems to have worked for me for over 50 years.

That's what I do. It seems to have worked for me for over 50 years.

In my opinion, if it is 'clean' to your satisfaction, I would de-grease/de-oil it and give it a couple coats of Rennissance Wax or Johnson's Paste wax. Ren Wax is my first choice.
If you think it needs a bit of cleaning, I would gently polish it with Flitz, then wax it.
Others may offer differing opinions, but this has worked well for me (on blue and nickel finishes).
I will let the picture support my suggestion:

View attachment 643080

attachment.php
 
I Have never, in 50+ years, had an issue using Hoppe's on nickel S&W's. Don't know about brands. After cleaning I wipe down with alcohol, buff with microfiber cloth and apply a thin coat of Renaissance Wax. Buffing again with microfiber cloth.
 
I’ve used Hopes 9 on nickel Smiths since I got my first in 1979, all without incident.

I treat the nickel Smiths as I do Smith blue guns (mine are all pre Smith’s move to the dark side using something similar to paint for blue and their discontinuation of nickel).

Don’t get hooked into fussing over imperfections with abrasive products. You’ll regret it if you do.

Clean it with Hopes#9, wipe the gun off with light machine oil and put the gun away.
 
I grow weary repeating it, but -- treat your nickel S&W exactly as you would a blued one and it will stay happy. Hoppe's will not harm it, since S&W has never copper-plated guns before nickel-plating, and the myth that they have is the source of the ridiculous no-Hoppe's idea.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Best answer! Now if it is not a factory S&W finish, then the advice of avoiding any degree of copper solvent (ammonia) is a good idea, but with factory S&W nickel finishes, it is not a problem. I do like Renaissance Wax after cleaning, but Johnson's Paste Floor Wax or pure Carnuba automotive waxes work well too.
 
I just use a CLP. My current FAV is G96 Synthetic which is okey dokie on Nickel, plastic and Cerakoate finishes - ALL finished for that matter. Never had ANY mishaps at all - but as others have stated, don't use Hoppes 9 (although their NEW formulation might be ok - don't know for sure).

When I first started shooting I did use the Hoppes 9 with ammonia on Nickel guns as I just did not know better at the time. Thankfully, I never had any issues and I still own those guns. That said, I would not use it now that I do know better.
 
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