nickel plate
- Thread starter kenjen
- Start date
Sportsterguy
Member
The letter N will be stamped on back of the cylinder and inside the crane also IMS. Positive on the cylinder. Sure the real experts will set you straight here shortly. I need to break down and buy the SCSW catalog.
Two very good revolvers you have there BTW.
Two very good revolvers you have there BTW.
Sportsterguy
Member
You're very welcome. Forgot about under the grip. You have 2 genuine nickel plated S&W's. Used to not like the finish but love it these days.
My 4" 586 is the most accurate centerfire S&W I own. Made me look good when I used to shoot IDPA matches a few years ago. Gotta start doing them again! I slapped a set of Herretts on it and absolutely love em as they are the best wood grips for shooting for the $30.00 I paid for em at a GS. This pic is old. I refinished them with a darker stain and 2 or 3 coats of poly, then used 000 steel wool to knock down the shinyness. Then waxed em up with some Johnsons paste wax. They look very good IMO and brought out the grain.
My 2.5" 66-3 is my one and only BBQ revolver. LNIB and very accurate too. I actually carried it in a Alessi shoulder holster as my motorcycle weapon for 2 years and thought better of it, so bought a 2.5" 66-2. Love em all!
Heres pics of mine. Show us yours.
My 4" 586 is the most accurate centerfire S&W I own. Made me look good when I used to shoot IDPA matches a few years ago. Gotta start doing them again! I slapped a set of Herretts on it and absolutely love em as they are the best wood grips for shooting for the $30.00 I paid for em at a GS. This pic is old. I refinished them with a darker stain and 2 or 3 coats of poly, then used 000 steel wool to knock down the shinyness. Then waxed em up with some Johnsons paste wax. They look very good IMO and brought out the grain.
My 2.5" 66-3 is my one and only BBQ revolver. LNIB and very accurate too. I actually carried it in a Alessi shoulder holster as my motorcycle weapon for 2 years and thought better of it, so bought a 2.5" 66-2. Love em all!
Heres pics of mine. Show us yours.
jhvaughan2
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How far back does the "N" stamp go. Would pre-war revolvers also have it?
Packard
Member
Keep in mind that nickel plating is very soft. It will abrade off very easily. Avoid abrasives and clean with non-abrasive cleaners.
Nickel was the preferred plating finish because it "throws" well. That is the plating will reach inside. If, for instance, you wanted to plate a soda can. Zinc plating will coat the outside entirely and maybe up to 1" deep on the inside. Nickel will "throw" far further inside and perhaps coat as much as 3" on the inside.
Nickel is bright and decorative. It is soft and its corrosion protection is based on coating integrity (like paint). Unlike paint it is less active on the periodic table than iron, so it you scratch through the finish the iron (steel) will be sacrificed to protect the nickel. In other words it will rust faster than a blued gun at that point. So take care of the finish. But don't use any more steel wool on it, and if you need to clean it up with abrasives use 0000 grade of steel wool (and use the steel wool only once).
Nickel was the preferred plating finish because it "throws" well. That is the plating will reach inside. If, for instance, you wanted to plate a soda can. Zinc plating will coat the outside entirely and maybe up to 1" deep on the inside. Nickel will "throw" far further inside and perhaps coat as much as 3" on the inside.
Nickel is bright and decorative. It is soft and its corrosion protection is based on coating integrity (like paint). Unlike paint it is less active on the periodic table than iron, so it you scratch through the finish the iron (steel) will be sacrificed to protect the nickel. In other words it will rust faster than a blued gun at that point. So take care of the finish. But don't use any more steel wool on it, and if you need to clean it up with abrasives use 0000 grade of steel wool (and use the steel wool only once).
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