Now.. Im not saying I deserve an award...

vitamind3

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But, I just may get the "least amount of ownership time, before a trigger job" award. lol, 36 hours into ownership, i ripped it apart, and did a trigger job, and WOW! shes ready to rip now!

I wont say that the trigger wasnt smooth to start with, but it was definitely stiff. Now tho... yummMMMmyy! im guessing somewhere in the 2.5 lb. neighborhood, and even smoother.

Lovin' it!
 
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But, I just may get the "least amount of ownership time, before a trigger job" award. lol, 36 hours into ownership, i ripped it apart, and did a trigger job, and WOW! shes ready to rip now!

I wont say that the trigger wasnt smooth to start with, but it was definitely stiff. Now tho... yummMMMmyy! im guessing somewhere in the 2.5 lb. neighborhood, and even smoother.

Lovin' it!

Guess i'm not as brave as you guys and do my own trigger job, tried to replace my sights on my Springfield XD45 and broke them If it ain't PVC or Copper i just don't trust myself
 
Guess i'm not as brave as you guys and do my own trigger job, tried to replace my sights on my Springfield XD45 and broke them If it ain't PVC or Copper i just don't trust myself

lol, its really not that hard. I did a trigger job on my XD also, and would have to say, the XD job was MUCH more time consuming. on a 1-10 scale, 10 being the hardest id say the XD was a good 6.5/7 (mostly due to the necessary precision), while the M&P was a 3.

what exactly is a trigger job?

Clipping the hammer spring, bending the trigger spring and filing the sear. it was about a 10 minute job, and worth every second!
 
yeah i did mine too.. i'd say its less than 2 lbs. its a huge improvement. i just haven't got the chance the to take it out and shoot it yet..
 
yeah i did mine too.. i'd say its less than 2 lbs. its a huge improvement. i just haven't got the chance the to take it out and shoot it yet..

well booo to that! what are ya waiting for?! ;) im going tomorrow.. even though its supposed to be about 11 outside. should be fun!
 
lol, its really not that hard. I did a trigger job on my XD also, and would have to say, the XD job was MUCH more time consuming. on a 1-10 scale, 10 being the hardest id say the XD was a good 6.5/7 (mostly due to the necessary precision), while the M&P was a 3.

Clipping the hammer spring, bending the trigger spring and filing the sear. it was about a 10 minute job, and worth every second!

Could you or someone else give a more in-depth step-by-step process of how this is done and maybe some pictures? That would be awesome!
 
But, I just may get the "least amount of ownership time, before a trigger job" award. lol, 36 hours into ownership, i ripped it apart, and did a trigger job, and WOW! shes ready to rip now!

I wont say that the trigger wasnt smooth to start with, but it was definitely stiff. Now tho... yummMMMmyy! im guessing somewhere in the 2.5 lb. neighborhood, and even smoother.

Lovin' it!

So where are pics?
 
damn it! i KNEW you guys were going to ask for those.. ;) ill rip it apart in a little while and take pics for ya.
 
ok, heres the write-up, and the obvious disclaimer: I am in no way shape or form responsible for what you do with your weapon. blah blah blah.. and so on.

heres what you need, although, feel free to replace any item/tools as you see fit. although, I will say, Im HOOKED on coconut coffee... I know it sounds really gay.. but damn, its good!
4194544887_accb4a9b64_o.jpg




take the gun apart..
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manually cock the hammer back. turn the safety for the 45 degree mark, as shown. i used the backside of of of my punches to get it started, then you can just pull it out w/ your fingers.
4194544929_7095c27622_o.jpg




notice the spring loaded piton here. this will come into play later.
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1) put your palm about an inch in front of the hammer, pull the trigger, allowing the hammer to fall. DONT just let it slam. make sure you guide it down easily.
take pin 2 out. you may want to have your hand or whatever over the top so things dont just go flying. next, remove pin 3. same thing with the hand.
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with a pair of pliers, youll want to bend the trigger spring. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE SMOOTH PART OF THE PLIERS. if you put a nick in the spring, over time it will probably break.
4194545071_15ca5c414c_o.jpg




bend BOTH legs of the spring like so.. try to bend them symmetrically. I kind of failed at that, but it really doesnt matter.
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next, clip this leg of the spring. Im not going to call it left or right, just for fear of confusing camera left, or gun left. you can see the orientation of the spring. do it like this.
4195302022_f18f43306d_o.jpg




next, you want to file the front (1) of the sear. its already pretty smooth out of the factory, but it can be improved. I started by laying 220 grit sandpaper on the counter, and running the sear over the paper. make sure you sand in the direction that the sear travels while being used. (up & down, not left to right) i only dragged the sear on the paper, pulling it towards me, (holding it as if it were in the gun, and you were going to shoot) not pushing it away from me. after using the 220 grit, i grabbed a stone wheel from a dremel kit, and used that. i know some people use polishing compound. I didnt, but it will work. sand that until its nice & smooth. once you get it to where you want it to be, (remember, youre not trying to take off a bunch of material, youre just smoothing it out.) MAKE SURE you smooth the upper edge out (2). i picked up the stone, and dragged it from the topside to start, then just smoothed out the transition as needed.
4195302056_6ea9358506_o.jpg




next, put the springs back on the correct pieces, and drop in the trigger assembly. then, the safety. if sure it could be done in a different order, but this is how i did it. MAKE SURE that when youre putting the pins back in, you put the grooved end of them pointing towards the left side of the gun as you shoot it.
remember that piton? start to slide the safety in, when you reach that piton, use something ( i used a beveled punch, so i could cup the point of the piton, and not slip off) to push it down, as to allow the safety to pop into place.
4194545027_68b77bb69a_o.jpg




then put the hammer assembly back in. make sure you lube it up nice AND test it (again, not letting the hammer fall on its own.) before you close things up. you should notice a HUGE difference.
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put the upper and lower back together, load it up w/ stingers or whatever you like, and shoot whatever needs to be shot... targets, rodents, ...stuff. ;-)
then..all you have to do is smile, as you pull the trigger of what feels like a totally different gun! (cartwheels optional)
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You certainly deserve a cup of coffee for this post! I just finished your mod on my 15-22 and the trigger is much improved. The only thing I did differently was when replacing the safety...I found it much easier to loosen the grip screw almost completely then the safety would just push in without trouble. After retightening the grip screw, I put the hammer back in following your instruction to put the grooved ends of the pins to the left, instead of the right, as they originally were. I'll hopefully get to the range soon to test fire this setup. Thanks again for the great step-by-step photos and instructions. Mike in TX
 
You do not have to remove the safety selector to get the trigger out of the lower. And if you do decide to take out the selector, it's best to just remove the pistol grip. Pay close attention to note lose the selector detent, selector spring, take-down detent, and take down spring that are held in place by the pistol grip.

One word of caution when attempting your own trigger job. Most standard AR triggers, hammers, disconnectors are only surface hardened. If you take off too much material, you will break through the hardened portion of the part, which will almost guarantee your FCG will fail at some point. It's best to use a very fine stone.

The end goal is to polish the engaging surfaces. Unless you really know what you are doing, do not change any of the angles on the engaging surfaces (sear, disconnector etc).

When working on your FCG, do a little polishing work, then reinstall to test. If you have not reached your desired effect, then take the parts back out and polish a little more. You can't put metal back on once you've taken it off.

It's also good to have a spare lower parts kit on hand in case you screw something up.
 
I hate to rain on your parade

but Thomas H is right. If you take 220 to the sear you are going to ruin it. The heat treat is not deep enough. The gun will start to double. I can't say when,maybe 100 rds maybe 20,000 but using anything even an Arkansas white stone is too aggressive. Buy a spring kit or aftermarket trigger. There are no secret gunsmith tricks for the junk that consists of mil-spec ar triggers. Clipping the springs only shortens the life of what is left of the spring. Stock trigger groups are made as cheap as possible and are meant to be replaced as soon they show wear. That is the what you have to deal with when dealing with an ar. The government doesn't care if a couple of G.I.'s aren't happy with the trigger pull of their guns. The 15-22 is just a copy of the same cheap parts. I hope eveything works out for you but I doubt it will.

Ryan
 
Without regard to whether it will hurt my gun or not, I greatly appreciate your guide, pictures, etc. Great write-up!
Thanks man!

I think it's everyone's responsibility to know what they're doing beforehand, and now with the above warnings AND this excellent write-up, people like me can begin to make informed decisions. Thanks guys!
 
Great write up on the trigger V3! Nice pics.

I only did the polishing of the sears and the trigger spring bend which results in a 4.5 lb trigger pull using my Lyman Pull Gauge. That's perfect for me. I didn't want to cut the hammer spring yet.

Don't forget to lightly oil your trigger surface after completing the job. I also put a dab of lithium grease on the spring.
 
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