Odd condition with 29-2

[guitar1580]

My recently acquired 1979 29-2 is LNIB, and pretty much unfired, other than factory test fire, and tight as a drum in all respects, except... I noticed that if I push the cyl release latch, then let it come back, without actually opening the cyl., the locking bolt doesn't always snap fully back into place, even after a good oiling.

I thought maybe a rough edge somewhere, since the gun is un-used, but on closer inspection, it seems that sometimes pushing the latch nudges the ejector rod just a hair toward the open position, and it doesn't let the bolt snap fully back into place, after I take my thumb off of the latch. The cyl. won't open at this point, but it's not fully latched shut either, unless I push down on the rod, and the bolt snaps back. It appears to be caused by a slight amount of play in the rod, allowing it to be pushed a little out of position.

This is my newest S&W, and the only one with the underlug barrel, but I know that my older Smiths have zero play in the ej. rod. Does anyone know if this is a result of lax production tolerances during the 70's, or is it a problem with my actual gun, maybe needing the wiggle taken out of the ej. rod, and how that is done? Has anyone else experienced this condition?

Josh P

 

[Jellybean]

Josh, I've never experienced it before, but, if I'm understanding you correctly, you might want to check to see if your ejector rod is bent. Hopefully it's just something binding it that can be cleaned out with a little disassembly.

 

[guitar1580]

Hey Jelly..... The rod appears to be perfectly straight. Everything spins properly, nothing binds up. It seems to be just that little bit of side to side play in the rod that allows it to happen.

I'm not sure how a gunsmith corrects that, but I'm going to look into it.

JP

 

[BUFF]

It might be gummed up preservative in the ejector rod latch on the barrel. I know you oiled it but it might need more there. 30 years is plenty of time for lubricants to get sticky, evaporate, collect some dust, etc. Sometimes some grit left over from the manufacturing process fouls up the works.

If you are going to shoot it, I would take it part and clean the lockwork and frame, or have a good gunsmith do it. If you aren't going to shoot it, I'd just drip some CLP or similar into the latch.

 

[Wyatt Burp]

That's interesting. My 1975 27-2 might have a similair problem. When I take it out of the safe and push the cylinder release, it's stiff and seems stuck ai first.. But after that initial opening of the cylinder, it's normal again, until the next time I pick it up again. Weird.

 

[DeadAye]

I suspect that someone - a long time ago - gave y'all's guns *a good oiling* and called it a day. The oil turns into a sort of varnish, after a while, and is sticky.
I'd disassemble it, clean it, and lube it properly (there just aren't that many parts on a revolver that are lubed, btw) or have a gunsmith do it if you aren't comfortable taking it all the way down and actually putting it back together correctly

 

[guitar1580]

I think some folks aren't understanding the description of my particular problem. Mine is not a lubrication problem. The latch and locking bolt work smoothly, and the bolt springs back fine if I leave the cyl open, and work the bolt by hand.

It's the play in the rod which allows it to be pushed off to the side a little, and hanging up the bolt when it returns. I have to mechanically push the rod back in place, and I hear the bolt snap back into the detent in the center of the rod. That is a mechanical issue, not a lube or non lube issue.

I'll post the question on the gunsmithing section, of how to get the rod play eliminated. I'm sure it will be a job for the gunsmith, as I do not have gun tools.

JP