Old .32 revolver. Help identifying, think I scored a pretty good deal though.

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Greetings to all! Just registered, first post, but the knowledge base here has been astounding me for a few years. Lately I have been on an old and unique kick (mostly in .22 rifles) but picked up this revolver at an auction. The more I try to research it, the more I love it, and the more intrigued I get. It is a Hand-Ejector, serial number 258248 (located on front strap and under barrel), stamped "32 long ctg" on right side of barrel, 4.25 inch barrel, fixed hand-ejector sights. Does have a strain screw, no swivel or lanyard, and is a 5 screw.
Thanks in advance for any information, and hopefully before to long, I can contribute anywhere near the information I have received from y'all fine folks!
Tony
 

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I'm pretty sure that a 32 HE with the serial on the front strap instead of the bottom of the grip is a 32 Regulation Police. And even though it looks to be square butt, it is actually round, with those spiffy "round butt to square butt conversion grips" on it.

If I'm wrong, someone will be along shortly to correct me.
 
Tony,

Welcome to the forum.

It's officially a ".32 Regulation Police Model", introduced in 1917. It is a hand ejector style, but that's not its model name.

Based on your serial # it shipped in May of 1917.

The C. WELLS on the right side of the frame is not a factory stamping.

Enjoy it, they are fun and accurate shooters.
 
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Actually, it is stamped C Wells on both sides of the frame. Somebody really wanted to make sure there were no mistakes as to ownership.
 
Welcome to the forum. Just to emphasize the earliness of your specimen, the lowest serial number on a .32 RP is thought to be 258001; the lowest serial number I have documented is 258017, but I dimly remember seeing a serial number like 258008 or 258009.

About the "C.Wells" stamp, which actually looks like O.WELLS to me, with the first and last letters larger than the ones in the middle: I wonder if there is any possible ownership connection to this .38 RP of the same era. Two of these guns are known to have shipped a day apart in April 1917.

 
That will be a great gun for casual plinking in the field or at the range and as its official nomenclature indicates it was also intended for police use. Any factory ammunition in 32 S&W Long as well as factory equivalent reloads should be fine to shoot in it, and you will probably find it quite pleasant to shoot. Congrats on a good find and welcome to the S&W Forum.

Froggie
 
Thanks for the replies! The stamped name is actually "O.WELLS", not only is it stamped on the sides of the frame, but on the bottom of the grips also. I am not selling it, but was wondering what the value might be (picked it up for 140 bucks). Bore and cylinders are fine, locks up firm, are there any concerns I should address prior to firing it?
 
Beleive it, or not, the old .32 S&W Long (a.k.a. .32 Colt new Police) served the police quite well beginning in 1903 with New York City Police Commissioner, Theodore Roosevelt. The Colt revolvers of the period standardized what the uniformed police officer carried as a service sidearm. Later, many "plainclothed" detectives carried 2" or 3" barreled revolvers chambeed for the same cartridge.

As times changed the NYPD changed over to the .38 S&W Special cartridge, but many detectives, and policewomen (matrons) continued carrying revolvers chambered for the .32 S&W Long (.32 Colt New Police) up into the 1950's and even into the 1960's.

These were popular because they were light, accurate, had low perceived recoil, and killed rather well. (Accuracy and marksmanship count, you know).
 
$140 is a great price. If you can find someone named, "O. Wells" the selling price would rise tremendously!
 
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Tony:

Welcome to the Forum. I know very little about the 32's, BUT I love your photos and I too like the gun and the implied history that goes along with the wear.

Thanks for sharing,
 
Tony, you did very well on the price. I had never owned a revolver chambered in 32 Long until the last Tulsa Gun Show. There, I picked up a 32 hand ejector 5th change. I think you will find it a pleasure to shoot. And, of course, welcome to the forum.
 
Thanks for the replies! The stamped name is actually "O.WELLS", not only is it stamped on the sides of the frame, but on the bottom of the grips also. I am not selling it, but was wondering what the value might be (picked it up for 140 bucks). Bore and cylinders are fine, locks up firm, are there any concerns I should address prior to firing it?

OLD GUN PROTOCOL:

Simply put, the only usual issue with these marvels of yesteryear is they are gummed up and dirty. Old oils of its time do not match the quality of these old guns nor the science of today, and actually dry up and harden to the point of impeding operation and accelerating wear. The simple solution does not need a gunsmith. Just one of a few premium modern gun products from any sporting goods, gun store or hardware store.

Most are both cleaning and preserving agents; Breakfree, Kroil & M-Pro7 are some of the best, but there are others. Disassembly is not necessary. With grips removed and a spray can version of the product, flood and flush the revolver thru every opening and crevice until the black gunk stops flowing out, let it drain for an hour and wipe it down good.

To remove grips: loosen the grip screw completely and carefully push down on the screw head until the bottom grip separates, then remove. Now push the top side grip off with a finger or toothbrush from the backside thru the grip frame. Scrub barrel bore and cylinder chambers with a simple cleaning rod kit found at the same places as the cleaning agents above, and patches cut from rags is all you really need. And scrub any observed exterior and crevice crud with an old toothbrush with bristles cut off short for stiffness.

Once cleaned and lubricated, with a few simple checks you can determine if it’s safe to use. Open the cylinder and verify the barrel is unobstructed. Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder is locked in position for each of the 6 chambers. If satisfactory, now operate the gun by pulling the trigger slowly until the hammer drops. Again, confirm each time after cycling the action, that the cyl is still locked in position. Cock the hammer in single action mode. Gently push on the hammer to confirm that it will not drop w/o pulling the trigger.

You have a quality made, very well engineered, and assembled with skilled craftsmanship and hand fitted revolver, no longer affordable on a competitive market basis, and that we'll never see again, ever.

Shoot it to your hearts delight, and it will delight you with its fine accuracy, and comfortable recoil.
 
Jim, I'm nominating your post above as "Explanation of the Year." We so often read instructions to "have your gun checked by a qualified gunsmith" when all that is really needed is to follow your excellent instructions and then go shoot the gun. I won't say you taught me anything new, but the review was so good and so thorough that after all these years of doing it myself, I still enjoyed having the review. Thanks!

Regards,
Froggie
 
Welcome aboard, Tony, and stick around. You'll find this is a great forum.

You'll also find you may have screwed up badly by buying that nice old revolver (which is making me very envious). The revolver bug bites hard, and you may soon discover that you are craving another one. And another, and--you get the picture. :)
 
Again thanks for all the information! This year has been my old/unique/just cool and different year at the auctions. Focus has mostly been on .22lr rifles that are at least 70 years old and not the ones you see every trip to the range/desert. I have about all i want from those except for a pump action and oddball lever action. Guess I am moving on to revolvers now (only have a couple, so why not find more cool ones), and don't have as much experience with them so I certainly appreciate the help/guidance/information. I can not take credit for the pictures I posted in original post as those were from the auction house and way better than anything I could take. I love shooting the firearms from when quality and craftsmanship was king and love studying the history of them even more (maybe). There is nothing like getting a gem in the rough or a good history story for an amazing deal. I think that I might pay S&W for their history on this one (do any of you have experience using them for the history, and is it worth the price and wait?). I will make sure to post any information I find out or reports on it. Not only do I collect the firearms, but I collect the history behind them (just ask anyone that goes desert shooting with me, they have to hear the whole history and why it is a cool firearm before they shoot it, lol). Again, thanks for all the replies and I promise this will not be the last cool find I come in here asking about/showing!

Another question I have, Everything appears to function great, but with my limited experience with wheel guns (I promise it will grow), how much movement of the cylinder is acceptable?

Thanks
Tony
 
Another question I have, Everything appears to function great, but with my limited experience with wheel guns (I promise it will grow), how much movement of the cylinder is acceptable?

Thanks
Tony

I don't know which movement you mean because there can be fore and aft movement and rotational movement. Check rotational movement with the hammer cocked, that's all that is really important from a safety concern. It shouldn't be much at all when cocked, if any.

If so, then unless you experience 'spitting' at the barrel/cyl gap, you have no reason for concern.
 
Jim, I'm nominating your post above as "Explanation of the Year." We so often read instructions to "have your gun checked by a qualified gunsmith" when all that is really needed is to follow your excellent instructions and then go shoot the gun. I won't say you taught me anything new, but the review was so good and so thorough that after all these years of doing it myself, I still enjoyed having the review. Thanks!

Regards,
Froggie

Thanks Froggie, much appreciated. But redjp4x4, the thread author, caused me to realize I neglected to include cyl movement checks. So I will include in my response to him above in the future.
 
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