Through some 'dealin' I managed to pick up a really nice model 1000 semiauto, It fits me well, swings easily, and line of sight is great, 'BUT' it does not cycle 50% of the time. Ive tried high brass, low brass, different brands of ammo and no noticeable difference. I really like the gun, and would like to use it for pheasant season. Can anybody help, short of going to a smith. Thanks!
Old model 1000 semiauto shotgun
- Thread starter bradanita
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Hello bradanita,
Have you checked if the gas piston moves freely?
What usually gums up the works on these is a rubber O-ring type
piston shock absorber that sits on top of the magazine spring retainer washer and over time turns into a black goo. The shock absorber is not
pictured but it sits just in front of where the dimples in the magazine tube are (about right above the "N" in PISTON pin)
KO
Have you checked if the gas piston moves freely?
What usually gums up the works on these is a rubber O-ring type
piston shock absorber that sits on top of the magazine spring retainer washer and over time turns into a black goo. The shock absorber is not
pictured but it sits just in front of where the dimples in the magazine tube are (about right above the "N" in PISTON pin)
KO
I checked the gas piston and it snugs up pretty tight at the end of the stroke, (about the last 3/8"). There were no 'o' rings on the piston, and the rubber of the shock was in perfect condition. At least it doesn't appear anybody used solvent on it. Thanks for the input it's greatly appreciated. B.A.
I'd see if cleaning the piston and the inside of the magazine tube helps free things up a bit.
This isn't a 3" chamber barrel that you are using 2 3/4" shells in is it?
KO
Yes, it's 2 3/4 only,and the tube and piston are shiny bright now. It looks like somebody wedged the piston pretty tight then twisted it back and forth extracting it, and scored the tube\,that might be what is sticking. This is going to be fun trying to polish them out. Gonna go shootin this weekend, we'll see how it works. Thanks for the help KO. BA
HavocUSMC
Member
1000 semiauto
I just picked one up too, did the same thing and didn't cycle and upon inspection I found the the shock washer (what was left of it) had kind of oozed down the magazine tube and gooed everything together. I cleaned it up, replaced the washer and still no luck. Them I noticed it said 3 inch for shells and I've been using 2 3/4 shells. Will it cycle with 2 3/4 shells? or must I use the 3 inch. I have to tell you this is my first S&W shotgun so I need to be educated on this.
Semper Fi.
HavocUSMC.
I just picked one up too, did the same thing and didn't cycle and upon inspection I found the the shock washer (what was left of it) had kind of oozed down the magazine tube and gooed everything together. I cleaned it up, replaced the washer and still no luck. Them I noticed it said 3 inch for shells and I've been using 2 3/4 shells. Will it cycle with 2 3/4 shells? or must I use the 3 inch. I have to tell you this is my first S&W shotgun so I need to be educated on this.
Semper Fi.
HavocUSMC.
model 1000 shotgun
You should be able to use 2 3/4", all my other shotguns will cycle them in a 3" chamber. I still can't get mine to work right, it will now cycle properly but it will not cock the firing pin. It's stil a nice single shot, I haven't had time to play with it again to figure out what's going on. Somebody out there knows something and isn't telling us.
You should be able to use 2 3/4", all my other shotguns will cycle them in a 3" chamber. I still can't get mine to work right, it will now cycle properly but it will not cock the firing pin. It's stil a nice single shot, I haven't had time to play with it again to figure out what's going on. Somebody out there knows something and isn't telling us.
The 3" chambered barrels only have single gas port and the 2 3/4" chambered barrels have 2 gas ports so getting 2 3/4" shells to cycle
reliably in a 3" chamber is kind of hit and miss.
In 1984 S&W came out with the Model 1000 Super12 that would shoot anything from 2 3/4" field loads to 3" magnums.
KO
reliably in a 3" chamber is kind of hit and miss.
In 1984 S&W came out with the Model 1000 Super12 that would shoot anything from 2 3/4" field loads to 3" magnums.
KO
HavocUSMC
Member
3 inch to 2 3/4 inch conversion?
I got mine to cycle with no failures with 3 inch shells, which it's made for. My question is what would I have to do so it would cycle 2 3/4 shells?. Would I have to buy the 2 gas port barrel or is there some other "relieable" mods I could do.
Thanks.
Guns - out
Semper Fi
I got mine to cycle with no failures with 3 inch shells, which it's made for. My question is what would I have to do so it would cycle 2 3/4 shells?. Would I have to buy the 2 gas port barrel or is there some other "relieable" mods I could do.
Thanks.
Guns - out
Semper Fi
I'd look for a 2 3/4" chamber barrel, or I suppose you could drill
another hole in the 3" barrel if you never plan on using 3" shells.
KO
HavocUSMC
Member
Ko41
Yeah I think that would be the best way too and just pick up a 2 3/4 barrel. Thanks for the reply.
Guns - out
Semper Fi
Yeah I think that would be the best way too and just pick up a 2 3/4 barrel. Thanks for the reply.
Guns - out
Semper Fi
roscoe13
Member
Also remember that the piston assy is designed to work DRY. Don't put any lube on it after you clean it. My 2-2/4" 1000 has been 100% reliable after removing the remains of the rubber goo-ring..
duckloads
Member
I had a M1000 back in the mid/early 80's. All I remember now is that it was the worst shotgun I ever (to this day) have had. I "think" it was the 2-3/4" model, but would not cycle either field loads or mag duck loads. It was sent back to S&W and returned in the same condition.
I traded it for a Browning pump (BPS). It still works as new and will paddle the duck boat in a pinch.
Good luck.
I traded it for a Browning pump (BPS). It still works as new and will paddle the duck boat in a pinch.
Good luck.
My old 20 gauge 1000 (2&3/4" ammo) has been, and is, perfect. Even the rubber washer is original and in good shape.
ar15ed
Member
i bought a 12g 1000 brand-spankin' new in 1976. i was bagging groceries after school, and it was my first firearm purchase. i don't reckon it has ever failed to work flawlessly for its entire life. i love it!
I have had a S&W Model 1000 shotgun since 1984. I bought it new with money from a summer job. I have put many thousands of rounds through it in practice and while hunting upland game. It has the 2 3/4" chambered barrel. I have only had a problem with it not autoloading once. It basically turned into a single shot. It took me a long time to find the problem. It turned out that the magazine tube that the piston rides in had gotten loose and rotated slightly. This did not allow the gas holes from the barrel to properly line up so that it could actuate the piston when the gun was fired. Once I corrected that condition by tightening that tube back up, the gun has fired and reloaded correctly ever since. Just my 2 cent. YMMV.
Tom
Tom
I have a 12ga 3" Full Choke Model 1000M. Needing a barrel for other uses, I purchased what I thought would be perfect - a barrel with screw-in choke tubes. Problem, it turned out to be about 1/2" too long from the breech to the gas-port ring, so I can't use it.
Anyone need a nice barrel with Mod choke screwed in?
Anyone know if a barrel exists for my 1000M with screw-in chokes?
Anyone need a nice barrel with Mod choke screwed in?
Anyone know if a barrel exists for my 1000M with screw-in chokes?
There is a 28" Multi-choke barrel with 2 3/4" chamber that can be used on the 1000M and 1000 12 gauge semi-auto. The only 3" chamber barrels for the 1000M were full or modified fixed choke.
The Model 1000 Super12, which your barrel is for, had a totally different gas system for using 2 3/4" and 3" shells using the same barrel.
Unfortunately Model 1000 semi-auto 12ga barrels are pretty scarce.
KO
The Model 1000 Super12, which your barrel is for, had a totally different gas system for using 2 3/4" and 3" shells using the same barrel.
Unfortunately Model 1000 semi-auto 12ga barrels are pretty scarce.
KO
Hello
Here's the culprit and cure to your cycling issues. Also see the link for part's for your S&W Model 1000 or Super 1000 shotgun... I hope this help's, Hammerdown
LSG, Mfg|Gun Parts|Warranty|Gunsmithing
Smith & Wesson Model 1000 Gas Piston Fouling
Manufactured for S&W by Howa Machinery of Japan the Model 1000 is a very sound gun indeed. Although S&W got out of the shotgun business in 1985 a good many Model 1000's are still being used regularly. The first thing to look for when a Model 1000 begins to malfunction is the black sticky residue shown on the Piston in the photo to the left. The Piston is the heart of the gas operation that works the feeding and ejecting of the gun. To get to the piston remove the barrel (is it necessary to remind you to unload it first?) You should be able to easily remove the Presssure Valve. Next remove the pin that connects the large black ring on the outside of the magazine tube to the Piston inside the tube and slide the black ring off the tube. The Piston should come out easily if it's clean.
the Piston Shock Absorber is next in line down the Magazine Tube. The Shock Absorber is just a steel washer with a rubberized cushion stuck to it. After many years and especially if any oil gets on it, the cushion dissolves and leaves a part of itself stuck to the Piston as the Piston bumps into it under recoil. Replacements have recently become available through the Gun Parts Corp. and they seem to be quite durable. Over the years, however, I've been replacing these worn out Shock Absorbers with a plastic (not rubber) hose washer available at most hardware stores. Just trim the washer to fit the tube snugly and place it on top of the remaining factory steel washer. One other thing to look for is dents on the long slots on either side of the magazine tube where the Connecting Pin rides. When the Shock Absorbers get really bad it can allow the pin to slam into the end of the slots denting them up pretty badly. This can cause the entire assembly to stick and create a jam. The best preventative for all of this is to NEVER let any oil get anywhere near this assembly. In conclusion I have a friend that removed the Piston shock absorber in his S&W 1000 shotgun and has fired over 20,000 round through it in competition Trap meet's with no ill issues....
Here's the culprit and cure to your cycling issues. Also see the link for part's for your S&W Model 1000 or Super 1000 shotgun... I hope this help's, Hammerdown
LSG, Mfg|Gun Parts|Warranty|Gunsmithing
Smith & Wesson Model 1000 Gas Piston Fouling
Manufactured for S&W by Howa Machinery of Japan the Model 1000 is a very sound gun indeed. Although S&W got out of the shotgun business in 1985 a good many Model 1000's are still being used regularly. The first thing to look for when a Model 1000 begins to malfunction is the black sticky residue shown on the Piston in the photo to the left. The Piston is the heart of the gas operation that works the feeding and ejecting of the gun. To get to the piston remove the barrel (is it necessary to remind you to unload it first?) You should be able to easily remove the Presssure Valve. Next remove the pin that connects the large black ring on the outside of the magazine tube to the Piston inside the tube and slide the black ring off the tube. The Piston should come out easily if it's clean.
the Piston Shock Absorber is next in line down the Magazine Tube. The Shock Absorber is just a steel washer with a rubberized cushion stuck to it. After many years and especially if any oil gets on it, the cushion dissolves and leaves a part of itself stuck to the Piston as the Piston bumps into it under recoil. Replacements have recently become available through the Gun Parts Corp. and they seem to be quite durable. Over the years, however, I've been replacing these worn out Shock Absorbers with a plastic (not rubber) hose washer available at most hardware stores. Just trim the washer to fit the tube snugly and place it on top of the remaining factory steel washer. One other thing to look for is dents on the long slots on either side of the magazine tube where the Connecting Pin rides. When the Shock Absorbers get really bad it can allow the pin to slam into the end of the slots denting them up pretty badly. This can cause the entire assembly to stick and create a jam. The best preventative for all of this is to NEVER let any oil get anywhere near this assembly. In conclusion I have a friend that removed the Piston shock absorber in his S&W 1000 shotgun and has fired over 20,000 round through it in competition Trap meet's with no ill issues....
Wee Hooker
Member
Gents, not to hijack the thread but is there a way to quickly check the piston assembly and washer at the gun shop BEFORE purchasing? I'm handy but don't know squat about how to tear down an auto loading shotgun.
p.s. They are asking $300.
p.s. They are asking $300.
