Old revolver?
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DWalt
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It's a WWII Victory model. In .38 Special it would not be one made for the British, as so many were. Is there anything stamped on the topstrap? If not it is probably what's called a DSC gun - made for domestic service by police and defense plant guards. Could also be stamped U.S. NAVY. It likely shipped from S&W around November 1942. No one can estimate value without some good clear pix.
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Welcome ! You have a early Victory model pictures are a must to put a value on as condition is everything . It basicly is a 4th change model made for WW2 from 1942-45 yours probably is early in the run.
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Absalom
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From your pictures, it has clearly been re-finished, as Victory models came with a dull phosphate finish; a standard blue like yours appears to show was not an original option. The stocks also look too new and shiny and are likely modern reproductions.
A thorough refinish like this could remove the topstrap stamp, but your serial falls into a range and time period when a lot of DSC guns shipped to non-military recipients, so either is possible.
In this modified condition, although in decent shape, it is no longer of interest to collectors, so it could likely only be valued as a shooter in the 200 to 300 range.
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DWalt
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I'll agree, a very pretty gun but not original. I show several DSC guns with very closeby SNs, and the lack of a topstrap stamp would support that it is likely a DSC. I'd say it would probably move quickly at a $300 price, maybe even a little more even as a shooter.
It shoots OK seems to just need to be cleaned internal I paid 400 for it I really suck at buying guns I always seem to get taking
I was told irt was a old cop gun he re did it as he carried it all time I think
But if its been redone why can I still read al marking clearly
I was told irt was a old cop gun he re did it as he carried it all time I think
But if its been redone why can I still read al marking clearly
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The average S & W revolver refinish will blur all the stampings, dull the sharp edges of the frame and cylinder, widen the sideplate seam and often the hammer and trigger are also (incorrectly) matched to the refinish. From the photos, yours seems to have avoided most if not all of these pitfalls, so whomever did the refinish knew to try to avoid them.
One noticeable clue is the cylinder is a different color than the rest of the gun, but that doesn't detract from it being a nice shooter. Enjoy!
One noticeable clue is the cylinder is a different color than the rest of the gun, but that doesn't detract from it being a nice shooter. Enjoy!
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Absalom
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I wouldn't worry about it unless you thought you were buying a historical collectible gun that will appreciate in value and that you could sell in the future at a profit.
As a shooter (and that's what most people buy guns for
), as long as it is in good mechanical condition, it is functionally identical to any later M&P or Model 10 you could have bought, and you'd likely have paid as much for one of those in this comparatively nice condition.- Joined
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nicky4968
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Around here we often say not that we paid too much but that we bought too early.
Do not shoot +P ammunition; bad for the life of the gun.
Welcome to the forum. You did just fine.
Do not shoot +P ammunition; bad for the life of the gun.
Welcome to the forum. You did just fine.
BC38
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A decent newer set of magnas (not a period correct set of diamond magnas like the ones posted by merl67) can be had for $25-$40 or so. The period correct diamond magnas in equally good condition would run twice that much. They are easy to swap, but why? Personally I wouldn't bother with changing the grips, if you can shoot it well with those. The old-school service grips you have look good on the gun to me.
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BC38 you made me feel good about the purchase of those grips I gave $32 for them at a antique mall back in March.
You didn't get shafted, that looks like a pretty nice revolver.
One way you can check the timing is to ensure the revolver is unloaded. Unload it, check it, check it again and be sure.
Then slowly pull the trigger it's long double action cycle, but do it slowly. If you do it quickly, the momentum of the spinning cylinder can "mask" some poor timing, so doing it slowly can show you how good the timing is. The cylinder should click and lock in to place -BEFORE- the hammer falls. And it should do this on all 6 chambers.
If it seems to pass this test well... time to make the test more difficult. Now put your thumb on the cylinder lightly... attempt to bind the cylinder ever so slightly while pulling through the long double action. Check that on all chambers, too.
If the revolver can pass both of those tests flawlessly then the timing is as close to perfect as it's likely to get. But here is a hint... there are -MANY- revolvers out there giving fantastic service whose timing isn't THAT good! The cylinder and it's momentum will "carry up" nicely so that some flaws in the timing are masked.
One way you can check the timing is to ensure the revolver is unloaded. Unload it, check it, check it again and be sure.
Then slowly pull the trigger it's long double action cycle, but do it slowly. If you do it quickly, the momentum of the spinning cylinder can "mask" some poor timing, so doing it slowly can show you how good the timing is. The cylinder should click and lock in to place -BEFORE- the hammer falls. And it should do this on all 6 chambers.
If it seems to pass this test well... time to make the test more difficult. Now put your thumb on the cylinder lightly... attempt to bind the cylinder ever so slightly while pulling through the long double action. Check that on all chambers, too.
If the revolver can pass both of those tests flawlessly then the timing is as close to perfect as it's likely to get. But here is a hint... there are -MANY- revolvers out there giving fantastic service whose timing isn't THAT good! The cylinder and it's momentum will "carry up" nicely so that some flaws in the timing are masked.
Keep it loaded with 6 !
Yours has the 'old style' hammer block, in a properly maintained gun they function just fine. I have a few. S&W changed the hammer block late in the V series (series became VS) after a potentially less than properly maintained revolver was dropped onto a ship deck from very high up and resulted in a fatality.
I wouldn't sweat keeping it full.
Yours has the 'old style' hammer block, in a properly maintained gun they function just fine. I have a few. S&W changed the hammer block late in the V series (series became VS) after a potentially less than properly maintained revolver was dropped onto a ship deck from very high up and resulted in a fatality.
I wouldn't sweat keeping it full.
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Nope, and it's redundant, there is a feature on the rebound slide which lifts the hammer as the trigger moves forward.
You can watch it. Unload it, check it, check it, check it again to be sure.
Point it in a safe direction, then pull the trigger and keep it held back. Looking between the cylinder and the recoil shield you should be able to see the firing pin protruding. Slowly release the trigger and watch the firing pin retract.
Yes it is.
With the trigger back and the hammer forward the firing pin is long enough to protrude through the frame and hit the primer on a cartridge sitting in the cylinder.
Looking sideways through the frame, on an empty gun you can observe this.
With the trigger back and the hammer forward the firing pin is long enough to protrude through the frame and hit the primer on a cartridge sitting in the cylinder.
Looking sideways through the frame, on an empty gun you can observe this.
BC38
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No! Reread post #s 24 and 26. Larry
