Older model hands

[SWOH]

Besides the unloved floating hands, what is the interchangeability between frame sizes - and various dash variations within a model (e.g., 686 w/ hammer mounted firing pin and MIM frame mounted 686 OR Registered Magnums and Model 28 Highway Patrolman)? Is there a lot of variability or can you use current and recent past (circa 1996 pre-MIM) production parts retroactively if necessary?

 

[armorer951]

The J, K, L and N models all have different hands. Thus, they are not interchangeable between frame sizes.

In terms of your L frame question, the hands are dimensionally the same, and thus "interchangeable" in terms of compatibility through the entire "history" of the L-frame model. Minor fitting is usually required if replacement is necessary, in order to insure proper function/timing, etc.

"Modern" hands in the various frame sizes and models, J, K, L and N have not dimensionally changed over the years, and can usually be used for repairs etc. within the frame size restrictions. Remember though that fitting is usually required, and that although they retain the same dimensions, they are not considered "interchangeable" in terms of their functionality from one gun to another. (hands are not considered "drop in" parts)

 

[SWOH]

I assume the current hands are MIM? I read Power Custom makes oversized competition hands - anyone else? Assume these are also forged parts....

 

[Nightowl]

I assume the current hands are MIM? I read Power Custom makes oversized competition hands - anyone else? Assume these are also forged parts....

The Power oversize hands I have purchased are truly oversize at .099 or .100. They are well made and not MIM. The Smith hands I have bought are not MIM either, but they may be now. The Power hands would have to be fit to the revolver and the ratchets, in that the hand window would most likely have to be opened up. I would rather use a Smith hand that is slightly wider than the hand being replaced, as I don't like to file the hand window until absolutely necessary.
If you are having carry up issues, you need to know the hand size and replace with one .001 or .002 wider. That will usually solve the problem.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Also, don't forget to test with EMPTY cases (for safety when working with the gun) in the chambers. A gun that doesn't time up without ammo, may be in time with the chambers filled up, due to slight rotational play in the extractor that is minimized with cases or live ammo in the holes.

 

[SWOH]

Right now, I'm just asking so I know what parts that may wear or need replacement to improve function are available - just bought two older L-frames and am working on them a little at a time to assess them. Having no decent parts to keep them going is what I worry about and after having had a look at Jack First, it got me wondering what to stock up on for future needs as the parts dry up.

 

[Protocall_Design]

About the only wear parts are the hammer nose (they can break), ratchets (need a wider hand), and cylinder stop.

 

[StakeOut]

If you buy previously owned firearms you'll never know what you'll receive so having a good supply of original parts is a good plan.

For S&W revolver parts kitslook at the everygunpart site.
Revolver Parts Kits at EveryGunPart.com

Also:
gunpartscorp
Apex Gun Parts
Ebay