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Should it come up at your next trivia night, a 629-2 Mountain Revolver can launch its cylinder bolt spring about 6’ under a refrigerator, and its partner pin about 8’ BEHIND a door.

This was the result of one test. My preference will be to NOT repeat the test in order to establish a trend. (But you never know…). :)
 
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On a related note the bolt plunger and spring might launch even farther and carpet is the perfect camouflage for such items!
 
I think we have all experienced something in this same realm, absolutely or at least tangentially related to your experience.

Okay, with that outta the way, your trivia night sounds AWESOME and I think I would enjoy it!
 
I have a very strong magnet on a telescoping rod for just such emergencies.

Had a friend who was going hunting and forgot to put a plug in his gun to comply with the 3 shot max capacity on his pump shotgun. The other guy told him to just stick a pencil that he had in his truck in the mag tube. Ny buddy unscrews the mag cap not realizing how much pressure was on the spring. Into the early morning darkness never to be found again. No duck hunt that morning.
 
YOU GUY'S did it to me!

Have only this Forum to blame for my Smith & Wesson "how to launch ICBM's" education on loosing springs and pieces, etc.

I was always doing pretty good NOT losing springs and little screws and even doing great with the domed and flat head sideplate screws, etc. UNTIL my first S&W semi comes along.

So the great advice on this Forum tells me that the safe way to "test" the decocker is to use a #2 pencil, point towards ceiling and test the decocker mechanism.

What you folks did NOT tell me was to use a #2 pencil UNSHARPENED....so.....eraser end into barrel, point up, test fire from decocker mode and bingo........pencil is sticking smack into ceiling drywall, fairly big-time too. Of course that is always when wife walks in and mentions something about big time safe gun handler.
 

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Must be why some use a large clear plastic bag as one of their "disassembly" tools ... the parts have a hard time getting out of the bag and under the refrigerator .

I thought everyone and every Firearm's YouTuber knew that old trick .
Gary
 
Early in my hunting career, on my first really great dove shoot, in a moment of frenzied idiocy, I jammed a shell into the magazine of my pump gun BACKWARDS. During my fumble fingered attempt to remove it, the magazine spring went into orbit, taking with it the expanding "keeper" AND the cap screw.

I was standing at the top of a 40' quarry wall, overlooking a 20 ton pile of blasted, but uncrushed limestone. Needless to say, I finished my limit with a single shot 870.

After that experience, occasional flying springs and pins from the work bench, contained to my reloading room are taken in stride, in spite of explatives expended.
 
So the great advice on this Forum tells me that the safe way to "test" the decocker is to use a #2 pencil, point towards ceiling and test the decocker mechanism.

What you folks did NOT tell me was to use a #2 pencil UNSHARPENED....so.....eraser end into barrel, point up, test fire from decocker mode and bingo........pencil is sticking smack into ceiling drywall, fairly big-time too. Of course that is always when wife walks in and mentions something about big time safe gun handler.
Okay hold up a second... you are not saying that you placed a sharpened pencil in the bore and squeezed the trigger and launched it. (expected!)

You are saying that you put the pencil in the bore of a cocked pre-39/39/39-2 and swept down the decock lever and that sent the pencil skyward and it embedded in the ceiling?! :eek:

That seems unlikely.
 
For a long time I’ve operated under the rule that for every foot of height an object is dropped it can move up to 6 feet sideways. But that doesn’t consider spring assist…
 
The other day I was doing a complete tear down of a 1917. I dropped the screw for the cylinder stop spring. I had earlier been using mill and lathe and some swarf was on the floor. Look as I might I could not find it. Swept the floor and inspecting the dust pan resulted in it being recovered. When ever I sweep my shop floor I first remove any of the bigger stuff then sweep the rest into a large aluminum dust pan, Running a fair sized magnet around on the bottom will separate the steel pieces from dirt, saw dust junk. If I hold the magnet in place I can dump the dust pan then remove the magnet and use a small stick to work though the metal for any prizes.

Another method is stick the magnet in a plastic sack then move the magnet over the suspect area, then turn the sack inside out and off the magnet then sort through the metal left in the sack

You can buy rolls of clear plastic tube. Actually just a super long plastic bag with no ends. If some of us went together and got some about 12" or so wide you could take say a 2 ft piece, stick the gun in, put a rubber band on each end then one hand from each end, have a clear view to do whatever and never lose anything

Only thing stopping me is I don't need hundreds of feet of the stuff and don't want to pay a couple hundred bucks for 50 times more than I will ever need.
 
Or do your work in something like a sandblasting cabinet!
 
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