opinion on trigger stops

[ol timer]

Thank you for the specs. epj.

ot

 

[fm2]

Originally posted by epj:
The target sighted K frames had a different style stop from the ones being discussed here. The "N frame style" stop is a fitted pin in the rebound slide that cannot bind the gun up. The K's had a rotating cam under the trigger that apparently could get out of adjustment, though none of mine ever have.

Thanks for the great explanation, since I am new to revolvers, the details help a great deal.

Could the "N frame style" stop be put on a 642?
Thanks much!

 

[OKFC05]

Could the "N frame style" stop be put on a 642

Modifications to defensive guns need to be approached with caution and only when 100% reliable and needed for defensive shooting.

I wouldn't even conside a custom stop installation of any kind on a 642. A K frame makes a nice range gun to practice revolver shooting.

 

[johngalt]

Neither my 625JM nor my 686-6 have the trigger stop pin. Were they supposed to?

 

[bountyhunter]

They have so little effect they are basically not worth the trouble to fit.

 

[epj]

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
They have so little effect they are basically not worth the trouble to fit.

I respectfully disagree. I personally find my single action shooting is significantly improved with a well adjusted stop.

 

[Wayne M]

I go to the trouble to remove the stops in all my revolvers for just the reason Carmony stated. Different release points for SA and DA. For a dedicated SA shooter a stop might have some utility; otherwise it's just something else in there you don't need.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by epj:

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
They have so little effect they are basically not worth the trouble to fit.

I respectfully disagree. I personally find my single action shooting is significantly improved with a well adjusted stop.

Take any K or L frame and do this:

Remove the stop, cock it and VERY gradually pull the trigger and see how far away the trigger is from the rear of the trigger guard at the release point.

Repeat with the trigger stop in place and you will see EXACTLY why I say it is not worth the trouble. The trigger travels rearward MAYBE .010" - .020" less with the trigger stop in place which is a microscopic change.

As for what makes us "shoot better": placebo effect is one of the most powerful known to man, but when you actually measure it, you will see what I am saying.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by fm2:


Could the "N frame style" stop be put on a 642?
Thanks much!

You can cut a rod from any hard steel, some people use drill bits. I have fitted these and be advised: don't make the rod so long that it JUST lets the hammer fall on a SA trigger pull. If so, the hammer will not cock without binding since you MUST have a little extra travel range rearward on the trigger when you cock the hammer. Pull the hammer back slowly and you will see what I mean. The rods inside the RB spring from the factory allow for this room, and as a result, allow a fair amount of overtravel of the trigger pull when firing SA. As I said, if you have a gun with one of the factory "trigger limit" rods, carefully pull the trigger SA with and without it: most people will not be able to tell whether or not it is installed. Try it and see.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by epj:
You cut them down a thousandth at a time until the trigger will just release the sear.

If the rod is cut that long, I absolutely guarantee the hammer and trigger will bind when you try to cock the hammer. The SA sear face pushing across the trigger nose requires the trigger to be able to move rearward a little extra room from where it is when the sear releases. Guess how I know?

Learned the hard way.

 

[fm2]

OKFC05 Yes, I understand about the reliability concern. When I saw this posted " The "N frame style" stop is a fitted pin in the rebound slide that cannot bind the gun up." it peaked my interest. My thinking is this part is inside the frame? On a centenial model, that area is pretty sealed from debris.

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
....the trigger pull when firing SA.

Thanks for the reply. My 642 is a DAO gun, so I'm not sure how this applies, but I like the testing.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by fm2:
OKFC05 Yes, I understand about the reliability concern. When I saw this posted " The "N frame style" stop is a fitted pin in the rebound slide that cannot bind the gun up." it peaked my interest. My thinking is this part is inside the frame?

The overtravel stops on current guns are small metal rods inside the rebound slide spring. I have not specifically fitted one for a DAO model. If you want to experiment with making one, here are some suggestions:

1) accurately measure how far the trigger is from the trigger guard when the hammer drops. You can use the smooth end of drill bits of increasing size until you find the one that prevents hammer fall.

2) You can make rods out of small finish nails because they are soft and easy to file while experimenting with lengths. Use the drill from step 1 to measure the travel of the trigger.

3) If you get the rod length you want, make the rod out of harder steel like a drill bit and grind to proper length.

 

[fm2]

Thank you BH!

 

[tomcatt51]

I just put stops in two 627's that came without. The S&W stops "out of the package" are .715". A factory installed stop I checked was .680". I installed both trimmed to .700". Just barely allows everything to function/clear. I'm not really sure they're a good thing but thought I'd try them. That gives some reference lenghts.