Opinions on the Springfield M1A Scout? Range Report!

This is just an example, I don't remember the actual names.

This is just two of the many images I found a long with a host of threads

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Top picture is of an M1 Garand receiver (read the upside down heel stamp) Cal .30 M1, etc. Since the serial is blurred, we can't tell if its one of the later 7 million range serial numbered, Australian made, cast commercial receivers. So, it's likely a forged USGI receiver, and not relevant to this topic. Even the forged Garand receivers sometimes cracked when firing rifle grenades before corrective measures were enacted.

And as someone else said, SA Inc. never used surplus receivers for the M1A. They've always been cast. And in all honesty, the cast receivers themselves have a pretty good record for durability in the 40-45 years M1As have been around.
 
I will certainly post a range report when I get the opportunity. I have heard and read ofsome of the accuracy issues, but the fixes are straight forward and inexpensive. I'm not too worried about the cast/forged debate. I really prefer milled parts, but try to fi d that in a factory gun that is even close to affordable!

Overall I'm very pleased with the little feller. It should suit my uses perfectly.
 
Simple rules to go by with the m1a/m14.

Don't shoot heavier bullets. Stay to 168gr upper limit. I load the military surplus bullets from 145gr to 147gr mostly. Use the correct burn rate gun powder the IMR 4895 is the only one I use for all my semi autos.

I hope you get a good one and you take care of it. Lube it with moly.
If you change anything use the national match stuff. Enjoy it.

That broken cracked receiver looks like over travel from the bolt. Caused by the hotter maybe heavier weight bullets. The heavier bullets cause a lag time before the bullet starts to move out of the case when it's fired this causes a higher peak time in the chamber pressure.
There's more gas pressure operating the bolt. It slams the bolt stop with more force than it can handle.

I installed the NM op rod spring guide and the stronger heavy duty wolf op rod spring. Just to play it safe.
 
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A10,
Congrats on your new Scout. I like them but must admit I prefer the walnut to plastic. I'm old school I guess.
Having owned several M1A's, including a Devine, Norinco, Fed. Ord. Fulton Armory and various SA, Inc. models, the only one I currently have is an early SA receiver with all GI parts (TRW mostly) and GI stock with selector cut out. I had an E2 stock and M2 bipod but sold them.
Anyway, the one I'd like to try is the LRB forged model... maybe someday if my "uncle" pays me.
 
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I like walnut and steel as well Jack, but I also like having a stock on a field gun that I won't worry about getting scratched up or wet. Wet is a big deal here on the rainy side of the state. If the finish gets worn, I'll just sand and paint it.
 
I've had them in all sizes from SOCOM to Supermatch and the Scout is my all-time favorite. I currently have both a SOCOM and a Scout and the SOCOM will be leaving soon. The Scout just feels "right" to me. The SOCOM is too short and chunky, the full-size is a little long and unwieldy, and the Scout is just darned handy. Both my SOCOM and Scout wear Leupold 2.5 Scout scopes which are suitable for my intended 0-400 yard shooting. Accuracy is as described above by others, but mine have never been worse than about 1-3/4" at 100 yards, ammo dependent of course. I'm currently a fan of the synthetic stocks for anything I drag thru the woods, and my Scout lives happily in Mossy Oak.
They're all good and it probably just boils down to preference.
 

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There is a m14 site with tons of info.

Your going to get hooked I'm sure. The bigger ones are heavier but consider how steady they are and how far they can shoot.
Just look up some camp perry stats.

I use the Bushnell banner scopes with the mechanical vertical turret. The BDC option gives me out to 500yds with no error. The bullet drop compisation allows me to dope the scope for the distance. I have used the older Bushnell scopes with the BDC option since the mid 90's.
I purchased the Bushnell banner for my m14 and 21" barreled saiga. You just install the vertical marked turret for the bullet weight your using. It comes with the extra turret rings.

I have the BDC option scopes on my 338wm and my 30-06 hunting rifles.
 
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I've had them in all sizes from SOCOM to Supermatch and the Scout is my all-time favorite. I currently have both a SOCOM and a Scout and the SOCOM will be leaving soon. The Scout just feels "right" to me. The SOCOM is too short and chunky, the full-size is a little long and unwieldy, and the Scout is just darned handy. Both my SOCOM and Scout wear Leupold 2.5 Scout scopes which are suitable for my intended 0-400 yard shooting. Accuracy is as described above by others, but mine have never been worse than about 1-3/4" at 100 yards, ammo dependent of course. I'm currently a fan of the synthetic stocks for anything I drag thru the woods, and my Scout lives happily in Mossy Oak.
They're all good and it probably just boils down to preference.

That Mossy Oak looks good but I'd be afraid I'd lean it against a tree and never see it again!:D
 
Normally I prefer a nice wood stock, but.........
When I bought my Fed Ord M14A (used), it had a Boyd black & gray laminate Target stock on it. It looked great, I loved it. The problem was that the older I got, the heavier it got. :rolleyes: I finally decided I'd had enough and about two years ago I replaced it with a Springfield black composite stock. That alone shaved about a pound and a half off the gun. It still shoots great, feels better in my hands and I don't have to worry about dinging it. With guns like these, practical beats pretty every time. ;)
 
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I painted the norinco Brown plastic stock with the brownells aluma Hyde II
epoxy paint. I used 0000 steelwool the heated the stock and shot it. It's a very tough finish. I did buy a USGI m14 wood stock but I haven't fitted it yet. I did pick up a good muzzle brake. I purchased every 308/7.62 headspace gauge so I can keep an eye on the headspace. The gun appears to still be unshot. I picked up the original norinco tripod.

My lgs let me shoot his full auto select fire m14. I learned to hold the muzzle down within the first few seconds of firing it. What a beast. The $10k price tag at the time wasn't out of my range. But then he insulted me when he said I couldn't afford it. I was in my dirty work clothes it was after work. I'm sorry I'm a blue collar worker working for a white collar corporate engineering group. I'm not rich by any means but I could buy a few FA M14's at that time. Never judge a man's wealth by his looks.
 
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A couple more pics, with a proper sling....I guess they call the stock color Flat Dark Earth. Looks functional. The gun appears to be Parkerized. Straight up utilitarian.
 

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I've only been using these rifles for about 30 years so I can't say Springfield NEVER used milled receivers though I know they have used cast receivers for many years. I do know, though, that Springfield has NEVER sold rifles built on surplus GI receivers as ATF would never permit that. All M14 GI receivers were capable of full auto fire and, thus, classified as machine guns by ATF. As far as ATF is concerned, once a machine gun, always a machine gun, no matter how the receiver might be modified to allow only semi-automatic operation. That's one of the reasons, among many, why M14 rifles will never be released to the public through CMP as the Garands were. If Springfield ever sold rifles on milled receivers, they got them from a commercial source, not as GI surplus.

I AGREE. MILLED OR CAST, THEY ARE ALL COMMERCIAL RECEIVERS. I LOVE THE LOOKS OF THE SHORTENED "TANKER" M1 GARANDS, THE SCOUTS, AND THE GIBBS "ENFIELD .308 JUNGLE RIFLE". I OWNED A GIBBS, WHICH WAS A VERY NICELY DONE REMAKE OF A SHORTENED ENFIELD, RECHAMBERED IN .308. BEING A BOLT RIFLE, IT WAS NOT AMMO SENSITIVE AT ALL. THIS TYPE OF RIFLES ARE BEST DESCRIBED AS CLOSE QUARTERS BATTLE RIFLES. THE GIBBS LACKED THE ACCURACY TO KEEP ME INTERESTED, SO I TRADED UP TO A SPRINGFIELD M1A…..

THIS BABY SATISFIED MY ITCH FOR A .308, WITH TARGET (NOT COMBAT) ACCURACY @ 300 YARDS--THE LONGEST RIFLE RANGE THAT I HAD ACCESS TO. I DON'T CARE FOR EER SCOPES ON HANDGUNS, PREFERRING TO USE AN AIMPOINT OR MY NEW FAVORITE, THE ULTRA DOT 30MM RED DOT. DIALED IN AT ITS SMALLEST SIZE DOT, I CAN WALK SHOT GROUPS AROUND INSIDE THE CONFINES OF A SLOWFIRE BULLSEYE X RING AT 50', INDOORS…..

I WOULD LOVE TO TRY OUT A SCOUT WITH A RED DOT. I THINK THAT IT WOULD BE A VERY HANDY AND PRACTICAL PACKAGE. IN ANY EVENT, I WISH THE OP THE BEST OF LUCK WITH HIS PURCHASE, AND LOOK FOWARD TO A RANGE REPORT…..
 

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Range day today. I put about 80 rounds down range, firing at 50 and 100 yards. The gun is no doubt more accurate than I am. Windage was dead center (as it should be), and elevation adjustment seemed to go right by the book. My only issue was some verticle str7nging, but I think thats just me. Most groups at,100 yards wew around 1 1/2 by 4ish. Quite honestly, I'll take it, for now anyways. 50 yards fared a bit better, about 1 by 1 1/2, still stringing a bit vertically. I will probably put a scout scope on and see what happens. Overall I'm very pleased!

Oh, and Springfield already sent my 3 mags. A very quick delivery!
 
As someone who likes the utility of Scout Scopes I can tell you the Eye Relief can be critical. Because of this you will want to do some measuring of your exact eye position with the rifle held at the shooting position. I would also suggest having someone put a piece of masking tape on the stock position right in line with your eye. Then measure from that tape to the theoretical position of the eyepiece on the scope. Something else to keep in mind is that with variable powder scout scopes the eye relief will vary with the magnification. Once you have the numbers you can then start contacting various manufacturers to get the exact eye relief of any shope you are considering.

BTW, Scout (or Handgun) scopes I have that are possible candidates are as follows.

First, Nikon's 2x20 EER Handgun Scope. This one has a generous range of eye relief allowing use at 9 to about 14 inches. The optics are also superb in terms of sharpness. This scope features the Nikoplex reticle so there isn't any reference marks for elevation.

Second is Nikon's 2.5-8x28 EER Variable Powder. Eye relief at 8X is limited to just 9-10 inches and it goes long at low power to a 12.5-13.5 inch range. As a result you will have to slide your head back on the stock when using it at low power. The BDC reticle on this scope is set up for the 308 Winchester so at full power it's useful for long range shooting.

Weaver 4x28 Classic Scout Scope. This was the only Scout Scope I was able to find that would work on the short Scout rail on my Rossi M92. Eye Relief for this scope is listed at 8.5 to 9.5 inches but with careful eye positioning it can be used at 10 inches. It's also proven to be a good value for the money but it features a basic Nikoplex style reticle so there aren't any reference marks for elevation correction.

The other option is to use the supplied iron sights, which are actually quite good as long as you have good eyesight. The sights on my Ruger Gunsite are basically a match to those on the Scout Rifle and for me they are effective out to about 50 yards but beyond that my aging eyesight becomes a real limitation. Twenty years ago when I had 20/10 vision I wouldn't think about putting a scope on one of these rifles, now some kind of optical aid is essential for accurate shooting past 50 yards.
 
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Mine is the Leupold fixed 2.5X and it works just fine for me. I've also used a Burris 2X scout scope in the past and it was a very capable setup.
I stayed away from the variable just because of the changing eye relief/variable power consideration. Mine is a fixed power-no brainer.
 
Is yours the fixed power scope? I've been considering the variable power one, but I like the longer eye relief of the fixed. Decisions decisions!

I have a Scout with a Leupold FX-II 2.5x28 scope on the Ultimak rail. It's a little lower than the SAI mount with a more solid attachment IMHO. Lower mount lets me get a good cheek weld without any pad or riser. Currently using Leupold QRW rings. They fit fine on the SAI Scout mount but not as well on the Ultimak true Picatinny.

I really like the generous eye relief, shooting with both eyes open, huge field of view and fast target acquisition.

There is a 1.5-4 variable version of that Leupold scope BTW
Leupold 1.5-4x28 VX-2 IER Scout Scope | SWFA

Any scope you mount over the breech will require a cheek pad of some kind. I'd probably go with a Bassett mount. TacPro makes a very good kydex cheek riser.

There are plenty of things you can do to eek a little more accuracy out of this rifle. Badger Ordinance spring guide. Shim gas cylinder. Make sure hand guard doesn't touch stock. You can learn a ton at M14 Forum - M14 Forum for M14 M1A Rifles(Scout is considered "modern"). Just the lubrication tutorial there is worth the visit.

There is a specific range of powder burn rates which function correctly and safely in these rifles. Hornady's manual has a separate section on .308 Win "service rifles".
 
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