Opinions Welcome

[dixiedawg119]

Well I finally got up the courage to try my first trigger job. I've got a 686-6. I've done some reading and watched Jerry's video a few times. Because they are MIM parts I was afraid of stoning through the hardened portion so I only took off about a third of what Jerry does on the video. I figured that'd be pretty safe. So it may be that I didn't actually do that much to the parts, the change may be just all in my head. I also installed a wolff 15lb return spring, and a wolff standard power rib main spring.
The double action feels better. It's not the magic I'd hoped it would be, but in reality the springs aren't that much different than the factory ones, and like I said I barely touched the parts with the stone. But as best I can tell, the double action is improved. It feels smoother and more consistent.
The single action doesn't feel as good. The hammer feels more difficult to cock, and it rests almost all the way back on the frame. Which seems further back than it did before. When I pull the trigger in single action, the trigger doesn't really move. It almost seems that the trigger is at the end of its stroke and I'm pushing against the trigger stop to make the hammer fall. I think the single action is heavier than it was before. But this may be all in my head b/c I didn't stone anything that would have affected the SA operation.
I did make one mistake. When Jerry cuts one spring in the video, I got a little distracted and came back and cut the wrong spring. I cut the spring for the cylinder stop. Now the stop isn't engaging when I pull the hammer back slowly in single action. But I'm thinking a call to Brownells will get me a new spring and fix that problem.
Now, I'm putting some Mother's Mag Polish on it. Soon to be followed by some billet aluminum polish. I've checked the Hogue Exotic wood grips, had to get a longer screw but they seem to fit the frame good. Hopefully some time this week I'll get a chance to put the night sights on. Then I think I'll be through messing with it.
Well, everybody weigh in. Gimmie your thoughts.

 

[dixiedawg119]

Well I finally got up the courage to try my first trigger job. I've got a 686-6. I've done some reading and watched Jerry's video a few times. Because they are MIM parts I was afraid of stoning through the hardened portion so I only took off about a third of what Jerry does on the video. I figured that'd be pretty safe. So it may be that I didn't actually do that much to the parts, the change may be just all in my head. I also installed a wolff 15lb return spring, and a wolff standard power rib main spring.
The double action feels better. It's not the magic I'd hoped it would be, but in reality the springs aren't that much different than the factory ones, and like I said I barely touched the parts with the stone. But as best I can tell, the double action is improved. It feels smoother and more consistent.
The single action doesn't feel as good. The hammer feels more difficult to cock, and it rests almost all the way back on the frame. Which seems further back than it did before. When I pull the trigger in single action, the trigger doesn't really move. It almost seems that the trigger is at the end of its stroke and I'm pushing against the trigger stop to make the hammer fall. I think the single action is heavier than it was before. But this may be all in my head b/c I didn't stone anything that would have affected the SA operation.
I did make one mistake. When Jerry cuts one spring in the video, I got a little distracted and came back and cut the wrong spring. I cut the spring for the cylinder stop. Now the stop isn't engaging when I pull the hammer back slowly in single action. But I'm thinking a call to Brownells will get me a new spring and fix that problem.
Now, I'm putting some Mother's Mag Polish on it. Soon to be followed by some billet aluminum polish. I've checked the Hogue Exotic wood grips, had to get a longer screw but they seem to fit the frame good. Hopefully some time this week I'll get a chance to put the night sights on. Then I think I'll be through messing with it.
Well, everybody weigh in. Gimmie your thoughts.

 

[robertrwalsh]

Smoothing out the rebound slide and replacing the rebound slide spring will get you about 85% of what you want with little hassle and almost zero danger of messing it up.

 

[Wayne M]

The action can be lightened by spring replacement as you have done but it will be hard and probably not do much good to try and smooth up the -6 action. Most of the MIM actions are VERY smooth as they come from the box. The best thing to do is clean it, lube it, shoot it....repeat....repeat....you get the idea. Generally smooth is better than light but a little lighter can also be accomplished by cutting up to two coils from the trigger rebound slide spring. You can also bend the hammer spring very(repeat VERY) slightly although many people will tell you you're not supposed to do it! Spring kits and "action jobs" are WAY overrated when for most shooters putting a bunch of rounds downrange would make thing much better. And replace the spring you mistakenly cut right away.

 

[dixiedawg119]

Well, I polished it up some. Looks aight. Put the new sights on. Broke two drill bits in the process. That got me frustrated, I got a little careless and lost the pin. Stupid. Well, I'll put in an order for a new one from Brownells.

 

[magnum12pm]

The stock rebound spring on the 686 is 18 pounds, I always use a 16. You should be able to fill the differene going from 18 to 15. I see no reason to cut or bend springs when you can buy the wieght of spring you want for minor cash. The shipping cost more than the spring, so I alway buy several for future use. Wayne M is right the more you shoot a revolver or dry fire it the better it will get, smoothness wise anyway.

 

[dixiedawg119]

Magnum12pm,

Yeah, I was thinkin' the difference I can feel in the DA pull is alot from that 15lb rebound spring. I got the standard power wolff main spring, do you use a reduced power in yours?

I went ahead and bought the wolff springs b/c I wanted to keep the factory ones just in case.

 

[magnum12pm]

Originally posted by dixiedawg119:
Magnum12pm,

Yeah, I was thinkin' the difference I can feel in the DA pull is alot from that 15lb rebound spring. I got the standard power wolff main spring, do you use a reduced power in yours?

I went ahead and bought the wolff springs b/c I wanted to keep the factory ones just in case.

I used the reduced power spring in my 4 inch, however I reload with federal primers. This is a range/match/training gun, not a carry gun. It has never failed to fire with my reloads. I don't know about commercial ammo haven't used any in quite a while.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

There is two big things to a trigger job. #1 Polish the rebound slide till it shines and slick. round all edges on it with 600 then 1500 paper. This is a cheap part to replace if you screw up. #2 Hammer block, most over looked part that will drive you nuts. Stone from one end to the other, cut the corners off the block (the head that does the blocking)with a stone, then polish the whole thing with 600 then 1500.

The rest of the gun just stone off the ruff edges of all the parts and put in a #14 spring and you should be ready to go. Sorry almost forgot on the rebound, wrap it with 1500 and polish the inside of the frame that the slide runs on. Make sure the post doesn't hit the sides and deburr the inside of the slide (where the spring goes).

This 686 has a four pound double action and I use Federal Primers with it( no big deal since that is all I use):