+P in older Model 60?

mrrick

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I recently got a model 60 Stainless made in the mid 1970s, pre .357 mag.

Is this gun capable of handling +P 38 spl. ammo? It isn't marked on he barrel.
 
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It is generally accepted that any Smith with a model number is good to go with .38 +P. that means anything made after model numbers were used ie 1957 or thereabouts.
 
It is generally accepted that any Smith with a model number is good to go with .38 +P. that means anything made after model numbers were used ie 1957 or thereabouts.

This general rule applies to steel K frames according to S&W,
not alloy K frames or any J frames. Some later J frames are
approved for +P ammo and there is a table of various S&W
models and dash numbers with the ammo recommendations
from S&W. This doesn't stop many people on here from
deferring to their own opinions rather than the factory's
recommendations however. Your early 60 is not rated for +P
from S&W but the bottom line is, do what you're comfortable
with.
 
If it has the +P heat treatment, you're good. You're Model 60 will handle a wide variety of .38 Special ammo.
 
Way back in the mid '70's :) while I was attending the S&W Revolver Armorers course at S&W, more than one topic such as this came up.
One S&W instructor said he would not fire +P ammo in either the M60 or the steel frame M36 if they were his guns.
That was answer enough for me at the time. ;)
At the time I was carrying the R-P 125 gr. SJHP in my M60 but I don't recall if that round was considered a +P loading or not.
 
Your standard .38 Special rounds from the 70's would be considered +P today.
 
The model 60 was not rated for +P until the 60-7 and upwards.
 
A picture that describes this thread, especially some of the replies.
jp-ak-albums-miscellaneous-photos-picture12178-dead-horse.jpg
 
The one time that I had the opportunity to fire some original 38-44 factory ammo, my revolver was my 60 no dash. One cylinderful was all I wanted to do. I thought that I could feel the weapon twist inside the Pachmyers. That mod. 60 is still perfectly fine since that 1978 event.

Regards,

Tam 3
 
Yes, Tam 3, and those .38-44 loads were hotter than any +P ammo available today. This is absolutely a non-issue . . . but we'll be hearing about it until doomsday.
 
I bought a new M60 in 1977 and put some reloads through it that make todays +P loads pale. They came from "Cooper on Handguns". Never had any problems.
 
OK OK, no +Ps for me.
I don't shoot +Ps in any of my guns, even Ruger SP101.
Just curious!
Well, suit yourself but you are running in the wrong direction unnecessarily. The point we were trying to make was that the Model 60 will gobble up the so-called +P ammo from now until the cows come home and not know the difference. Your hand might, but the gun won't.
 
To put the above answers in context...this question is asked very often and the answer is pretty much always the same. To summarize:

S & W has stated any model stamped steel frame .38 Special revolver is safe for +P use in the past. However, they have no control over what happens to their guns after sale, and my guess is the lawyers have become involved, so if you call them and ask "can my .38 such-and-such use +P?" you will most likely hear that "only revolvers stamped with this rating can use this ammo". It's the safe answer for them, and understandable.

However, standard pressure .38 Special is rated at 18,000 and official +P 21,000 psi. Is this more stress on the gun (and shooter)? Yes. If you put 10,000 rounds through your model 60, will it increase the tolerances on the gun to the point that it may need work? Maybe. Will it make an otherwise mechanically sound steel J frame (or the tank-like SP-101) explode into little metal fragments? No.

Bottom line, your hand (and wallet) will tire of shooting +P .38 before anything will happen to a model 60 in good condition. Hope this is helpful.
 

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