part number for IL for new model 617

bryman021

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I purchased a brand new smith and wesson 617 with a 4" barrel. I have been doing some research on the internal lock and have decided the best fix for me would be to grind off the little tab the does the "locking". I would like to have a spare on hand just in case I ever needed it, and before I go grinding the current one.

I appreciate the help!! And sorry if its on here somewhere I can't seem to find it.
 
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you could remove the whole assembly and buy "the plug" featured in accessories forum.
 
Seriously, you're worried about the lock in a 22 caliber 617? I wouldn't bother, the only way the lock in that gun will move is if you use the key or drop the gun on concrete.

BTW, I have a 6 1/2 inch 610 and a 4 inch 620, both with more than 2000 rounds downrange, and the only time the lock has engaged on either is when I've used the key.

I've also spent a bit of time tuning both guns and the lock has zero effect on trigger pull or primer ignition. Currently the 620 is tuned to 8 lbs. in double action and it'll shoot accurately with every ammo I've been able to find for it, WWB is 100%, Federal is 100%, Speer Lawman is 100%, and Remington is 100%. As for the 610, the Pachmayr Decelerator currently mounted on it will cause the mainspring to hit the grip screw with the trigger set to anything under 9 lbs, one of these days I'll get the 500 Magnum monogrip for it and see how light I can take it. However, at 9 lbs. it's proven to be 100% reliable with the same mix of brands as the 620.

BTW, I also have a 6 inch 617 no dash that I've tuned to a 9 lbs. 3 ounce DA trigger. However, the only ammo I've used in the 617 is Winchester Xpert HV and Federal Bulk. As in my other revolvers, ignition has proven to be 100% reliable as long as I keep the cylinder clean. With the Winchester ammo the cylinder will start to get fouled after 50-70 rounds and it becomes difficult to fully seat each round. When that happens any round that isn't fully seated will misfire on the first try. If the Winchester wasn't so darned accurate in the 617 I'd stop shooting it, however it'll goup 35% better than the Federal so I keep using it when I want shoot for precision.

Sum it up and IMO you really don't have to be concerned about the lock, there just isn't enough recoil with the 617 to cause any issues. You've also purchased a VERY fine revolver capable of surprizing accuracy. Have fun with it and if you get really curious about how accurate it can be I'd suggest mounting a 2X scope on it.
 
...I have been doing some research on the internal lock and have decided the best fix for me would be to grind off the little tab the does the "locking"...

You are trying to "fix" something that isn't broke. Or worse you'll be fixing it until it is broke. The IL discussion is a manufactured problem...it's just not real in my opinion.

You'll love the 617. I'd recommend shooting it as often as you can, and leave it unmodified.
 
You can't buy the parts. S&W won't sell them to you.
The Internet blows things out of proportion.

Don't sweat it on a range toy........
 
Don't sweat it on a range toy........

That.


I don't like the locks either, but I also just bought a brand new 617 w/4" barrel.

I won't own an IL Smith for the most part, but for a range toy, I had no hesitation to buy a new one.
If it absolutely kills you to have to look at the hole, get the plug available here in the forum, but it's a waste of money on a .22 range toy.
Put your extra money into some nice grips or a red-dot scope instead.
 
All good advice.
Most of my Smiths are lockless,some are not.I don't give it any consideration at all.
 
ok I was hoping someone would tell me I didn't need to worry about it. I was thinking the same thing, a .22 shouldn't have the recoil to self engage the lock. So thank you all, you have alleviated my stress in thinking it would lock up on me.

I haven't actually taken possension of the revolver yet. Just been doing alot of research and the whole IL thing has been driving me crazy!

The 617 will be just that a "range toy", I have a Ruger GP100 with a 4" barrel that is my primary CCW, i don't think I could trust a smith with the IL for protection purposes. I know any firearm could fail, but adding a useless part that could cause a problem is just not acceptable to me.

Thanks again guys, I will just pretend the lock isn't there.
 

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