Plated Bullets in S&W Airweight

[38SPL HV]

I found that I have some bullet creep using 6.0 grs Unique behind Berry 125 gr and 1/2 turn on Redding taper crimp die. The creep was not significant enough to retard or jamb rotation, but it was still apparent. Previously, 1/2 turn with the Redding profile die precluded bullet creep.

3/4 turn on Lee FCD with same charge and bullet exhibited no crimp and were accurate at 10 yds (silhouette target). But pulling a unfired round showed that there was a strong indentation around the bullet using the Lee FCD.

I'm going to shoot up the rest of the plated bullets and move on, not buying them anymore. I've been using coated cast bullets more and more these days...and also found a source who coats them in Lyman 358429, T&B Bullets (excellent bullets and seller).

 

[stansdds]

I tried Rainier plated bullets in my 640-1, loads reduced to 38 Special +P velocity, but with taper or roll crimp, I had bullets creeping out of their cases. I'm going to hi-tek coated bullets instead of plated bullets.

 

[gwpercle]

Back off the Lee FCD just a bit ...try 1/4 turn , that should help .
As long as the plating is not cut , a little indentation will be OK.
Just a matter of "fine tuning" that crimp .
Gary

 

[max503]

A 125 grain bullet and 6 grains of Unique in an Airweight? Boy Howdy! And why would you taper crimp? That calls for a firm roll crimp. And don't forget to hold on tight.

 

[GeoJelly]

To each his own, but I see two things to comment on here. First, as noted above, that 6.0-g Unique is way up into +P territory. At least, per the Hornady #9 guide. I would suggest dropping it at least a full grain. Second thing, also mentioned, is running more than just a few test rounds of your load thru an Airweight. I have a couple of 360J's, with the scandium alloy frames and steel reinforcement parts, and I would prolly only try five rounds of that load in one of them. If you're shooting a standard Airweight, I wouldn't even think of it. Just my .02¢ ...

 

[mikld]

My opinion; plated bullets should not be used by new reloaders (not enough readily, easy to find data) and plated bullets should not be used in revolvers. Now is when all the replies like "I use plated bullets in my airweight with +P+ velocities and I get no creep" will follow. I have tried plated bullets, only about 1,000, but I had 30 years reloading experience behind me. I know about neck tension, crimping (roll, taper, profile and collet) and how they affect plated. I'm familiar with powder charges and velocities and the shortcomings of plated. So I had little trouble loading plated.

New reloaders haven't the experience to deal with slick sided revolver bullets or finding load data for unknown bullets.

My opinion...

 

[Nevada Ed]

With my 38 and 357 jacketed bullets, I am old fashioned and just plain like a real cannalure on the bullet for a light crimp,
to prevent any problems.

Smooth walls are made for pistol loads, from what I have read.

If it is not broke...............

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Plated bullets are fine if they are shot within their design & you limit them to their listed max. fps.

In any lightweight hard recoiling revolver you need to seat the bullet with good bullet-case tension & a firm roll-crimp, which precludes the use of plated bullets.

Plated bullets are too slick & have no meaningful cannelure for crimping.

Use an appropriate cast lead bullet which will take a firm roll crimp or a jacketed bullet, but can still be problematic in some revolvers.

In normal recoiling, or heavy revolvers, plated bullets work fine.

In my "reduced" 460 & 500 handloads using plated bullets I deep seat them to the ogive & apply a roll-crimp over the ogive.

With an appropriate charge, even in these fire-breathers, these bullets will not jump crimp.

.

.

 

[scoterbeast]

Have loaded and shoot a fair amount of xtreme plated 125 gn in light j frames. They have a cannelur although not deep. Light roll crimp into the cannelur. Light loads as i dont enjoy shooting heavy stuff in the little snubbies.


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