Please educate me on the Model 66 - some ??

[bedbugbilly]

I hope I am posting this in the correct section - if not - please move.

I have some questions on the Model 66. I have a lead on a stainless 4" that I might be interested in but I have no experience with that model. I like the K frames - have a M & P and a Combat Masterpiece. For some reason - the Model 66 I have a lead on interests me - you can never have too many Smiths!

So - I haven't seen it yet but it is supposed to be in VG to Excellent condition with only a few rounds through it and has the original box. From my understanding, the Model 66 is the successor to the Model 19? Production was started and stopped after a few years - then Smith re-introduced it and lists it now?

I haven't seen the pistol yet but I believe it is one of the earlier ones - stainless steel - 4" barrel. From what I'm seeing, the 66 isn't much different from the Combat Masterpiece I have with the exception that it is chambered in 357 and shiny instead of blue. Is that a fair assessment?

Is there anything to watch out for on Model 66s other than the usual lock up, flame cutting, etc. like in any revolver? As I say, I think this one is one of the earlier 66s but will know more when I actually get to look at it in person.

In looking, I've seen 66s with rubber grips as well as wood. Were the 66s made in square butt and round butt? If it was originally made with the rubber (boot) grips, can these be removed and standard stocks put on?

I have read that the earlier model 66s had nice target style triggers?

I shoot a lot of 38s and love the K frames I have but would like one in .357 - plus I like the 4" barrel. I reload so the ammo isn't the issue. I would imagine it would be a lot like shooting the CM that I have.

I have looked on GB and prices seem to be all over the place. The fellow is asking $450. Knowing what the new Model 66s list for - is this a reasonable/fair price if it is indeed an earlier stainless?

Thanks for whatever information you can provide . . . if it turns out to be a nice one, I just don't want to over pay as I'm sure there are others out there. With the way the prices have jumped on used revolvers even the basic Model 10s seem to be bringing higher prices.

Thanks.

 

[pawncop]

Short answer, the Model 66 is the stainless version of the Model 19. It is not a successor but a different version. Chambered in 357 mag. Great revolver.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

Some of your questions are better left to folks who either have more of that knowledge in their heads or are sitting next to the Standard Catalog or a Roy Jinks S&W history. I'm not at home to do that. So....

The Model 66 is not the "successor" to the Model 19 - it is the Model 19 in stainless steel.

Your fair assessment isn't quite fair, either. The Combat Masterpiece, later the Model 15, is a K-frame .38 Special, a Model 10 with adjustable sights. The Combat Magnum, later the Model 19 (or maybe named simultaneously, I can't recall offhand) is a beefed up Model 15 - it is heavier where it is supposed to be heavier and, of course, has a "longer" cylinder in order to accommodate .357 Magnum cartridges. The Model 15 cannot accept those rounds.

As for calling it shiny versus blue, that's not a fair assessment, either. Blued guns are VERY shiny. A Model 66 is a stainless steel version of a Model 19 so the difference is shiny blue-black versus shiny silver, if you're comparing colors. Without detailing the various changes to each model over the years (that's the SCSW does), it is a fair assessment to say that the Model 66/Model 19/Combat Magnum is the big brother to the Model 15/Combat Masterpiece. Not a successor but a variation in a larger, somewhat heavier model, for use with a larger caliber. Call them cousins if you prefer.

$450 for a Model 66 in very good condition, plus the box, is a VERY good price these days. You'll see replies echoing that I am sure. it's a revolver so treat it as you would any used revolver and look for the usual things. The details on butts and grips and hammers will appear eventually.

***GRJ***

PS:

I agree with the last post - it is a GREAT revolver.

 

[4011]

If I were you I'd go ahead and get at that price. Try it and if I didn't like sell for what you paid are a bit more.

 

[ohioseabee]

Recently...

bought 66-1 6" that I haven't shot yet. I'm sure you will thoroughly enjoy it!

 

[fyimo]

At the price you said if it's in excellent mechanical shape, comes with box, and has a clean finish it's way under valued at that price. Around here you won't find a 357 Magnum S&W revolver for that price even ones with a lot of holster wear. If you like it buy it and if after shooting it you don't like it sell it because you certainly would not lose money.

 

[matt2009]

That is a very good price in my opinion.

My dad has a 66-1 in 4" barrel and it is a very nice shooter and if I'm not mistaking has the same engineering changes as the 19-4.

And also it could be a square or round butt (my dad's is a square butt that had wood target stocks).

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[Badquaker]

The "weak" point of the k-frame 66 is the bottom of the forcing cone. It is cut to clearance the cylinder crane. Under extreme use, it can crack there.

picture by others.....

The new 66 does not have this issue.

 

[frankmako]

the m66 is a great gun. it will eat 38sp all day long. it will eat 357 mags too, but keep a look/check at the forcing cone if you shoot lots of 357 mag in it. but i got a boat load of 357 mag through my m19 and m66 and i see nothing at the cone. so if you can get the gun at a good price, then get it. you will never feel bad about it later on. there is something about the combat mag pistol.

 

[bedbugbilly]

Thank you all for the information - very helpful!

ISCS yoda - my comparisons were pretty "loose". LOL Comparing blue to "shiny" was just a loose comparison between blued and stainless. I agree with you - my blued Smiths are "shiny"! I have never owned a stainless handgun as I have always preferred blued but for some reason, the 66 interests me. I obviously misunderstood that the 66 was the "successor" to the 19 in one of the references that I read. Thanks for correcting me on that. I missed out on a nice 19 a year ago - went to look at it and it was gone but came home with my CM and M & P. The "big brother" reference puts it in to perspective. And, I should have said a beefed up version since it is a .357 and there would be a difference in cylinder length, etc.

Badquaker - thank you for the photos - I'll be sure to check that out. I probably would be putting more 38 spl through it than 357 and I reload on the mild side as most of my shooting is just plinking, etc.

I'm hoping to be able to go take a look at it later this week and hopefully it is "as described". Many thanks again - all the info is greatly appreciated.

 

[mmaher94087]

BBB, if I may; I am not a "modern" collector. I don't know half the terms stated above, BUT I wanted a Model 19, 27(?) or 28 (or was it a 29?) as a field-carry weapon. I knew that I wanted the capability to shoot the .357 magnum (we have Black Bear, Mountain Lion and Ocelot) as well as target shoot the .38 Special. A .45 ACP is the limit of my threshold of pain. I purchased an early Model 66 (stainless steel rear sight) at the recommendation of a knowledgeable friend and I have never looked back or played the "what-if" game. It is my first SS revolver, a four inch and a great revolver. My hands are small so I took the target stocks off and put Pachmyre (Goodyear) rubber grips on it. I bought it used at $400 about six years ago. I will not sell it, ever.

 

[Green Frog]

BBB, if I may; I am not a "modern" collector. I don't know half the terms stated above, BUT I wanted a Model 19, 27(?) or 28 (or was it a 29?) as a field-carry weapon. I knew that I wanted the capability to shoot the .357 magnum (we have Black Bear, Mountain Lion and Ocelot) as well as target shoot the .38 Special. A .45 ACP is the limit of my threshold of pain. I purchased an early Model 66 (stainless steel rear sight) at the recommendation of a knowledgeable friend and I have never looked back or played the "what-if" game. It is my first SS revolver, a four inch and a great revolver. My hands are small so I took the target stocks off and put Pachmyre (Goodyear) rubber grips on it. I bought it used at $400 about six years ago. I will not sell it, ever.

I too had a very early 66, but found that I got a much better sight picture with the later, blackened sights. I swapped them out and put the stainless ones in a safe place (not for sale!)

As for the grips, everyone has to find what fits their own hands. I have friends who like Magnas alone or with grip adaptor, targets, and various iterations of the rubber tires. Personally, I never found a factory K-frame grip I liked better than the smooth combats that came out about the same time as the Model 66s, but my best shooting friend can't abide them and uses "Grips by Goodyear" instead.

Back to the original question, the biggest changes involved moving the cylinder bushing (for the -1) and the omission of the recessed chambers and pinned barrel (for the -2.) If you have a good solid example of any of the variants, the differences will probably be of importance to you only as a collector. I'm enough of a variation snob to seek out the -1 variety, but that's JMHO, YMMV.

Froggie

PS This is a little (OK a lot) off topic, but if you already have a Model 14 or 15 and want a little more power (i.e. 357) you might also consider the younger sibling on steroids, the L-frame. When I want to shoot a lot of higher powered loads, I go to my 686. I don't think I will ever shoot it enough to wear it out!

 

[Grog]

They started using the round butt on the 4" with the 66-4. I got mine from a former boss, was my first gun I used on duty in security work and also as an firearms instructor with my company back in the 90s.


It is one of two guns I never plan on selling.

 

[clevolver]

Ask how many he can supply at that price, after you buy this one, and tell him you'll take them all.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

 

[Retired W4]

I bought a 2 1/2" 66-1 new around 1977 and have put a ton of .357 rounds through it (125 grain to boot). The gun is a little loose but still within tolerances. I used to carry it a lot and I still have it today. If the gun you are looking at really has a very low round count I would say $450 is a GO.

 

[Huskerguy]

I recently picked up a 66-2 in 4" a few months ago, my first Smith and absolutely love it. I am totally hooked and now spend way too much time on this site.

I don' t know anyone who has handled mine that didn't like and it is very accurate. Mine is very clean, doesn't appear to be shot much but it was used. A little micro fine paper and some Mothers polish and it is a beautiful piece. And yes, I paid more than you will so DO IT NOW! don't look back.

 

[lhump1961]

Reloading is a great thing and a bonus with magnum K frames. Stick with 158g bullets in .357 loads and shoot away!

 

[Double-O-Dave]

Bedbugbilly:

Just a couple of things I'll add - first, a distinction between the Model 19/66 and your Model 15, besides the stainless steel construction of the Model 66, is that the ejector rod is shrouded on the Model 19/66. For some, this is a major deal, others, not so much. Also, be aware that the Model 19/66 came equipped from the factory with a trigger stop. This is a small piece of steel that fits behind the trigger, and was designed to stop overtravel. There were instances where the trigger stop could become dislodged and stop the piece from functioning. During the days when almost all LEOs carried wheelguns, especially the Model 19/66, this was a major topic of discussion and debate. The cure was pretty simple, many department armorers simply removed the trigger stop. Yours may or may not have the trigger stop. My 2.5 inch barreled Model 66-5 came to me (used) without it. I have fired Model 66s with the trigger stop installed, and I could feel the difference in the trigger action. By the way, as others have mentioned, if the piece you're looking at is in good condition, the price mentioned is killer. If it includes the box and goodies (docs, cleaning kit, screwdriver), then it's a "killer/diller" deal in my opinion.

Best of luck,

Dave

 

[Larry from Bend]

You mentioned target trigger/hammers.

I bought this -2 about 35 years ago. At that time you had to specifically order (and pay extra) for the target hammer and trigger to get them. I also have the relieved target stocks, but these Pachys are more comfortable when on a horse or ATV.