Dantheman17
Member
I have a model 36 nickel. It's pretty flawless but I was thinking mothers Polish and a microfiber cloth?
Polishing / cleaning nickel revolvers.
- Thread starter Dantheman17
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mscook
Member
Sounds good to me
bigchuck83
Member
I've used both mothers and Flitz on my nickel model 586. Both worked fine
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TAC
Member
Nu Finish automotive polish is excellent, and inexpensive. Available almost everywhere.
Pond Scum 43
Member
Flitz has other uses around the house.
Be vewy, vewy careful with Mother's on nickel. It is abrasive. Just a tad rubbed on with your finger and gently rubbed off will bring back the shine, if it is lacking. If you try to polish out scratches, you will be removing plating and be sorry. Once should be enough, followed by Ren Wax.
maineultraclassic
Member
I just bought a 500 Magnum, and I want to give it a good polish job. What is the finish on it?
Glad I found this thread to see what others are using.
Steve
Glad I found this thread to see what others are using.
Steve
hkcavalier
US Veteran
Well it's not really a "finish", it's made of stainless steel. You can be a bit more aggressive than with nickel since it's not a plating or finish, it's the same stuff all the way through.
rockquarry
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I'm missing something here; all my nickel revolvers came from the factory highly polished and all of them still are, some after more than several decades of shooting. I wipe them with an oily rag after cleaning.
Did some of you get guns with a dull finish?
Did some of you get guns with a dull finish?
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Stainless S & W revolvers have a thin protective coating known as "passivation", which I gather adds extra protection to the metal. Polishing will remove this.
As noted above, light polishing on nickel guns, especially pristine ones. When you polish a nickel gun with any abrasive, the black stuff that is on the cloth is not corrosion or dirt, it is the nickel itself. A nice coat of wax to preserve the unscratched shiny surface would be first.
As noted above, light polishing on nickel guns, especially pristine ones. When you polish a nickel gun with any abrasive, the black stuff that is on the cloth is not corrosion or dirt, it is the nickel itself. A nice coat of wax to preserve the unscratched shiny surface would be first.
lamarw
Member
silentflyer
Member
I have had good luck with Semi-Chrome and then a wax job....
If you want a polished look instead of the matte look, a can of Mothers polish and a couple shop rags is all you need. This one took around an hour and a half.
Don't hate on me because it aint a Smith.
OP
Dantheman17
Member
The 36 has a great shine I thouyid make her look better but maybe I'll just use wax. What about carnuba wax?
That's the only thing I'd use on a nickle gun.
As others have said, Mother's Mag is inexpensive and does a nice job on a stainless gun. I put a good four or five hours all told, plus half a jar of polish, and my 629 came out perfect--a mirror finish.
I would suggest a cut-up old (but clean) white t-shirt or undershirt. One shirt provides enough scraps to do a nice job. You'd also save yourself a lot of headaches if you removed the cylinder and cylinder yoke (and the grips, obviously).
Be sure not to polish any surface that faces you when shooting. In other words, the back of the frame around the hammer slot, and the back of the cylinder face. You don't want to be blinded by glare if the sun is behind you. I also skipped the topstrap and the top of the barrel.
When you're done, clean thoroughly with a shop rag to remove the dried-up polish particles.
OLDSTER
Member
polish nickel
I also use Mothers Mag to shine up stainless and nickel. This birth year (1947) M&P factory nickle was a mess when I bought it. But using Mothers Mag and some old cotton socks, it really cleaned up nice and has only one area of flaking. Great ( and inexpensive )stuff
I also use Mothers Mag to shine up stainless and nickel. This birth year (1947) M&P factory nickle was a mess when I bought it. But using Mothers Mag and some old cotton socks, it really cleaned up nice and has only one area of flaking. Great ( and inexpensive )stuff
I contacted S&W Customer Service via email in regard to a couple of 1970's nickel-plated Smith & Wesson revolvers and what I could clean and wipe them down with that will not damage the finish.
I also asked if Ballistol is safe to use as the cleaner/lubricant/surface preservative or if will it damage the finish.
Their succinct response was that they would recommend using Hoppes Elite cleaner.
I also asked if Ballistol is safe to use as the cleaner/lubricant/surface preservative or if will it damage the finish.
Their succinct response was that they would recommend using Hoppes Elite cleaner.
^^^^what he said. Especially the part about the oily rag. I guess I'm out of the loop (in many areas!
), but where did Hoppe's get such a bad reputation? It's all I use for cleaning.Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
Hoppe's #9 bore solvent contains ammonia, in the form of ammonium hydroxide. If used on nickel, the excess/leftover solvents need to be wiped from the surface after cleaning is completed. Damage can occur if the solvent is left on the surface too long.
This MSDS info is available on the Hoppe's web site:
http://www.hoppes.com/Hoppes/files/9d/9dc3db35-232c-4353-bc5c-9b3e79cfc834.pdf
This MSDS info is available on the Hoppe's web site:
http://www.hoppes.com/Hoppes/files/9d/9dc3db35-232c-4353-bc5c-9b3e79cfc834.pdf
