Polishing Mod 60 stainless

John Hill

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I am looking at a Mod 60 stainless that someone has tried to "clean up" with some kind of abrasive. It has definite pattern scratches where they really rubbed. If I should get this revolver, can it be buffed and or polished to correct this or would it just be a rough gun?
If it could be restored, what material and method would I use?
Thanks
John
 
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I bought a scratched up model 60 and a few hours with an old t shirt and mothers mag wheel polish did wonders for it.
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It depends on whether you are aiming for a factory-like or polished result. Grey Scotchbrite pads with the proper technique will get you close to the former but will be more difficult than the shiny look pictured above. Personal preference - good luck in your decision.
 
I did my 640 a while back... completely disassembled it, started with 800 grit, then went to 1500, and finally finished with a lot of 2000... then polished with Flitz and carefully buffed it out (on low speed) with my dremel and several cotton polishing wheels.

I'm not claiming that it's as good as a professional polishing but I'm happy with it... and if/when it gets some scratches, I can easily polish them out.

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Scotchbrite pads do a pretty decent job restoring a stainless gun back to close to factory spec's. A learning curve and patience is the key to a great job.

Personally I don't care for the mirror finish that some put on their stainless guns. Insert it into a holster and shoot it for the first time and scratches appear once again! The satin finish is durable and most minor scratches and wear marks are not an issue. While some might really like the super hi-gloss finish, it's just way too impractical for me - as I like to shoot my guns.

When refinishing a gun with heavy duty scratches, I use wet / dry or similar paper to remove the lions share of them before I use the Scotchbrite pads. BTW, the relatively new line of 3M papers (red in color) is a fantastic product! The paper is really well made, holds up for a long time and has a terrific backing - much better than your traditional paper! I always fully disassemble the gun as there is really no practical way to avoid getting grit inside - don't want that! Plus it just makes working on the gun easier when its apart.

Although I've been at this many years I still avoid using a Dremel or power tool. By hand allows for slow steady progress and viewing your results often is easy. A cotton T shirt and or microfiber towels are best. My personal preference for a mild abrasive if and when needed is Flitz. To me it is just better all around and Semichrome and Mother's are just not as good - Ford / Chevy thing I guess.
 
Scotchbrite pads do a pretty decent job restoring a stainless gun back to close to factory spec's. A learning curve and patience is the key to a great job.

Personally I don't care for the mirror finish that some put on their stainless guns. Insert it into a holster and shoot it for the first time and scratches appear once again! The satin finish is durable and most minor scratches and wear marks are not an issue. While some might really like the super hi-gloss finish, it's just way too impractical for me - as I like to shoot my guns.

When refinishing a gun with heavy duty scratches, I use wet / dry or similar paper to remove the lions share of them before I use the Scotchbrite pads. BTW, the relatively new line of 3M papers (red in color) is a fantastic product! The paper is really well made, holds up for a long time and has a terrific backing - much better than your traditional paper! I always fully disassemble the gun as there is really no practical way to avoid getting grit inside - don't want that! Plus it just makes working on the gun easier when its apart.

Although I've been at this many years I still avoid using a Dremel or power tool. By hand allows for slow steady progress and viewing your results often is easy. A cotton T shirt and or microfiber towels are best. My personal preference for a mild abrasive if and when needed is Flitz. To me it is just better all around and Semichrome and Mother's are just not as good - Ford / Chevy thing I guess.

Actually, a polished stainless finish is very practical for carry and shooting... cleans up easily and very simple to remove scratches from carry, etc... just polish them out.

Edit...I did most of the polishing by hand but if you're competent with power tools, don't be afraid to use a dremel to polish out deeper scratches along with areas/angles that are difficult to get by hand. IMHO, it produces an overall higher quality result... as I said, use a low speed and take your time. After all, you're just using a soft cotton cloth polishing wheel so it's kinda hard to do anything but polish it. 😊
 
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AGR337, where did you get those stocks?

Hey blue topper, those are altamont g10 combat grips. I liked them but ultimately went with a hogue grip... extremely comfortable and good looking as well.

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John, all great advice has been given above. This very subject is one of my favorite hobbies I have done way too many to count.
To answer your question Yes it can be fixed and there are a few different ways of doing so, if you like to piddle you can do it yourself you just about can't mess it up honestly. I love to find one that has issues and is priced accordingly.
And I have found that sometimes correctly this type of situation on a stainless gun you can polish it first. That helps remove whatever they have done. Then if you're happy with that result leave it or if you rather have the factory look you can then use the scotch brite pad method to gain those results. That's how I do it anyway
Best of luck to you, hope you get it anyway!!
I rarely pass up an opportunity to buy a great model 60!

Jason
 
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