Polishing the Bolt?

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Just curious what you guys think about polishing the bolt on a 15-22(except for the face that contacts the chamber). I noticed that the bolt has kind of a fine rough texture to it and it seems a little grainy when sliding in the upper even after being thoroughly cleaned and lubed. It does function perfectly normal and hasn't had any issues yet. I'd be using a dremel with a cotton wheel on a low speed with a compound. Same thing I did with my trigger and the center piece of the bolt. I'd imagine that doing this would help reduce friction, letting the bolt slide easier. Maybe even save the upper from some wear and tear. I don't really see a down side to it if it's done properly without taking a bunch of material off. Any thoughts? Was also wondering if this would void the warranty since we can get away with polishing the trigger and feed ramp.
 
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Before doing anything like that I'd e-mail S&W customer service and ask them. They are actually really good about replying to e-mail. I say e-mail instead of calling that way you have a text record of them saying it won't void your warranty, if that is what they say.
 
"It does function perfectly normal and hasn't had any issues yet."

If it's working well now.... I'd say it needs some fixing....;)
 
good idea scuds. I'll shoot them an email in a minute and let you guys know what they say.

Phil - took the words right out of my mouth. I can't not modify things to increase performance. I've got a serious case of OCD when it comes to any of my toys :D
 
Sounds like you may have some build up in the upper, but it's not clear whether the resistance you're feeling is when you insert the bolt carrier group into the upper or when the bolt operates. In operation the bolt should be riding only on the carrier rails. If it isn't, something's very wrong or you've got a lot of build-up on the walls of the upper. If you're feeling resistance when you slide the bolt carrier group into the upper, that would indicate build up or debris in the upper slots, and perhaps where the charging handle rides as well. Problem with black guns is they hide dirt.:D
 
Is the bolt in these guns just bead blast stainless, or is there a matte chrome or some other finish to it? Powder residue that's been left on for weeks comes off the bolt a lot easier than it does my bare stainless pistol that's only a couple days old.

I don't know if that's from the different powder of a .22 or if there's a protective coating on the bolt.

I'd ask S&W how it's finished before thinking about polishing the whole deal.
 
Just to be clear, I have zero build up at all. It's only been out 3 times so far and has about 500 rounds through it. I'm super OCD when it comes to cleaning my toys properly and checking for correct function. What I'm describing isn't dirt, build up, or any problems with the rails. I'm not talking about when I insert the bolt and charging handle either. I'm simply stating that the action between the bolt and upper could be a lot more smooth than it is from the factory due to this texture. Rustpot brings up a point that I was concerned about. Although I'm pretty sure it's just sand blasted and not plated since I already had to polish the center rail of the bolt so it would stop gouging the bullets. I've emailed S&W already. Hopefully I'll get a quick response
 
It has been years since I have done it, but I used to use a mixture of whale oil and grinding compound on a new bolt action rifle. Mix it together, smear it on the bolt liberally and open and close it numerous times, maybe over several days. Makes a very smooth action.
 
..I'm not talking about when I insert the bolt and charging handle either. I'm simply stating that the action between the bolt and upper could be a lot more smooth than it is from the factory due to this texture....
To be clear the bolt rides only on the rails when cycling. There should be no other sliding contact between it and the upper. When you remove the bolt/carrier group can you slide the bolt smoothly on the rails? If so maybe the drag is between the bottom of the bolt and a lower component, like the hammer.
 
hmmm... well now I feel like an idiot lol. I just confirmed everything you guys just said. The bolt does ride on the rails. Had to get in there with a flashlight. Looks like S&W put mine together really tight to the point of the bolt grazing parts of the upper. It left some little scuff marks behind. Thanks for setting me straight guys. Maybe I need to do some more thorough cleaning of the rails and spring then.
 
No offense intended but it seems to me like a solution looking for a problem. :)

Story of my life. I was just going to post that if I did this I'd for sure find a way to grind something important off of my bolt.
 
You know how to remove the bolt from the carrier, correct?

Doing so will allow you to clean the channels in the bolt that contact the rails, and check them for buildup. The rails themselves along with the grooves in the bolt might need checking for fit.

I took my gun apart at the range and dropped my bolt on the concrete floor (yikes!). It's got a few burrs on the face that rides inside the upper, opposite the ejection port. No change in feel cycling the gun, no performance change, no marks on the polymer inside.

I forgot about that until I was doing a thorough clean today.
 
haha yes I know how to remove the bolt. I've stripped the whole rifle down 4 times now and each time I've cleaned in between the rails and bolt as best as possible. It functions perfectly and the only problem that I've had was gouging bullets, which I fixed. I was just looking for a way to improve the performance. Like said above, I had a solution looking for a problem. Maybe I'm just being super sensitive to the feel. Can't help myself. I love to modify things.
 
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I polished the rails with a very hard ruby stone that I use in moldmaking. The rails had some rough edges that just need a bit of smoothing out. They look like they are stamped, cut on a water jet or just very poorly machined.
The bolt has 4 "pads" that contact the rails on the top, bottom and inside. Very crafty. This limits the contact area to keep friction to a minimum. It also lends to an area for dirt and grit to go, so the contact areas dont bind up too much.
If you have to polish something, polish the rails. Just "break" the sharp inside edges and maybe the inside faces. Don't remove material as the bolt relies on the rails for alignment.
The bolt is perfect from the factory and would be a much more expensive repair.
Use some top quality CLP and your rifle will cycle smoother. Cleaning will be easier also.
Do any mod at your own risk.
 

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