Polishing

[drjay9051]

So I have bobbed the trigger on my J frame. looks good. Also put in Wolff springs, no issues. Also removed internal lock.

I have watched some videos on trigger job, polishing bearing parts etc. Also have the Kuhnhausen manual.

What grit Arkansas stone do i use to smooth surfaces?

I find no mention of grit size anywhere.

As an alternative can I use red polishing paste on a Dremel or is thi not abrasive enough?

On the frame do i polish till the blue comes off or lighter. I am talking where the rebound mechanism bears on the frame. Without experience how do i know just how much to remove.

Everything I read or watch states just take off enough to remove gritiness. I know experience helps but I have none.

i have no interest in using a smith. i wish to do my own work.

i know to be very careful at the sear engagement points.

As I have bobbed the hammer I am considering removal of the SA sear engagement but not sure if this is necessary.

Please, no lectures about lawyers etc.

 

[Hapworth]

Various types of stones and even wet-or-dry sandpaper in hard to reach areas can work.

I like ceramic stones after much research. Brownells sells a set with a medium and a fine grade; you won't need coarse.

Less is more with stoning. A few gentle passes with each stone to smooth things like the rebound slide, or break the edge on the cylinder stop lip, etc. Elbow grease is not called for here; better to do a little and let use do the rest than go too far by hand.

I strongly advise against any dremel use on the lockwork.

The Yoda trigger job video on YouTube is useful. The Miculek DVD is essential. The Kuhnhausen book is mandatory.

 

[Alk8944]

There is no specified "grit" for a "Hard Arkansas" stone, they are what they are.

Oil the stone and rub the rebound slide on it with light pressure. Initially you will feel the stone "bite" the part, but after a very few strokes, usually only 6-10, the part will feel like it is floating on the oil. STOP! That's all needs be done, any more is cutting metal from the part unnecessarily. Often you will not even be able to tell the part has been stoned by looking at it.

 

[WR Moore]

Red automotive rubbing compound and a wire brush (looks like a minature shaving creme brush) in a Dremel can be used to deburr the lockwork areas inside the frame. One of the great things about the process is that it's hard to ruin anything this way-we're talking 2 minutes with the Dremel at the most, more likely 1 by the clock. You're removing burrs, not creating a finish you can shave in.

The big issue is getting all of the polishing compound back out. Gum cutter from the automotive store works-wear protective eyewear. Also, getting the cylinder stop back in with the spring properly installed and without kinking it. There have been several times I've considered making a jig to install the long obsolete screw that used to go in the hole you dropped that spring into.

You can accomplish much of this by dry firing the piece 1000 times or so. All you're really trying to do by "polishing" is slightly accelerate normal wear.

 

[tomcatt51]

What grit Arkansas stone do i use to smooth surfaces?

I use an India stone. Norton FF66.

It looks suspiciously like what you see in Jerrys' Trigger Job video.

 

[armorer951]

"polishing" stones

I also use the 6" India stones (medium and fine).....available from Brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...orton-6-x-1-2-x-1-2-india-stone-prod9622.aspx

Technically not a "polishing" stone as your OP alluded to, but come in the correct size for me to also use in jigs and fixtures. A good light oil will prevent metal particles from becoming imbedded in the stone. Use light pressure as described above. These stones are often less expensive than arkansas stones, and are not as brittle. (Arkansas stones do not respond well when dropped) If you acquire Arkansas stones, be sure to store them in a plastic tube or other individually compartmentalized storage tray so they don't come into contact with other stones or hard surfaces. They are easily damaged, particularly the edges.

For final polishing and sear work I use the ceramic stones from Brownells. They are also 6" x 1/2" x 1/2" and the edges are precision ground to a 90 degree angle. They are expensive.....but it's one of those tools I wish I could have afforded years ago. In the long run, they have saved me a bunch of time and have more than paid for themselves. With patience, they are capable of producing a mirror surface on critical parts like sears, etc.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...nes/6-x-1-2-x-1-2-ceramic-stones-prod799.aspx

 

[chief38]

I've got three grades of Arkansas stones 3" x 10" x 5/8" thick. Medium (grey in color) Hard (white in color) and Extra Hard (black in color) but don't know the actual grit numbers. I've also got a few 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" stones that are translucent in color and they are also extra hard that I use for fine detailed work.

 

[stu1ritter]

For flat surfaces like the rebound slide I use 2500 wet/dry paper glued to stiff glass plate for a near true flat surface. For the area the rebound slide rides against I tightly wrap the 2500 paper around true square wooden stock. For narrow or hard to reach areas I have very thin wooden strips that I wrap the 2500 paper around. Just a very light polish is all it takes and you would be hard pressed to remove too much metal with the 2500 paper. For the interior of the rebound slide where the rebound spring runs, I use cratex rod in fine and extra fine mounted in a slow hand drill. Quite a bit of double action roughness can be removed by polishing that interior spring run.