Poundage rebound spring.

[Jerryberry]

Is #14 rebound spring recommended for 686-6 ?

 

[HughD1]

Works well on mine. No issues.

 

[Kiwi cop]

The recoil spring has no effect on hammer action. It is there only to return the trigger forward after firing. As long as it will do that any weight spring is fine, but the heavier the spring the heavier the double action pull to overcome it.

Factory standard is, I believe, 16 Ib.

I had a 13Ib recoil spring in my 686 for many years and it gave me a smooth light pull. I eventually replaced it with a 12Ib one.

The 13Ib spring I put in my .38 S&W Victory.

I gave a club member the 14Ib spring from the Wolff spring set for her new 929 which was a little heavy for her with the factory spring. She found it much easier to shoot.

 

[Wee Hooker]

Kiwi nailed it. If your looking fo a lighter trigger pull without effecting reliabiliy then a rebound spring swap is the way to go. I do maybe3- 4 simple revolver trigger jobs/year these days. What I've learned is that the older revolvers tend to need more polishing inside to get away with lighter rebound springs. ( The newer revolvers tend to have MUCH smoother internal finishs from the factory than their older counterparts.)
My rule of thumb on new K/L/N frame revolvers is that a 14# spring drops right in with minimal/no pplishing. 13# usually works IF you do are willing to do more pollishing. 11-12# works in revolvers that are already worn in or if somebody who knows their stuff is working the inards.

Long story short. 14# should work fine . When in doubt, you can buy a kit that includes a 12,13 and 14# for short money.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Rebound slide spring effect on SA trigger pull

The recoil spring has no effect on hammer action. It is there only to return the trigger forward after firing. As long as it will do that any weight spring is fine, but the heavier the spring the heavier the double action pull to overcome it.

The rebound slide's spring overwhelmingly effects the single action trigger pull weight.

Check the SA trigger pull weight of your revolver, fully assembled, with a trigger gauge. Now remove the mainspring & hammer and use the trigger gauge to measure the pull weight again.

The two measurements will be virtually the same because the rebound spring is the main force that has to be overcome. The disengagement force of a smooth trigger/hammer sear is minimal in comparison.

Factory rebound springs usually result in 4-1/2 to 4# SA trigger pull weight.

A 14# rebound spring will usually get you to a 3 to 2-1/2# SA trigger pull.

Cutting 1/2 a coil off will usually get you a 2-1/2 to 2# SA trigger pull.

The mainspring's 10 to 12# weight overwhelmingly effects the double action trigger pull.

.

 

[Bobafett]

factory weight of the rebound spring is 18lbs, I could've swore it was 16lbs on early guns but I can't find proof of that anywhere.

 

[fiveo]

I put a 15# spring in my TRR8 and it made a noticeable difference in the single and double action pull. It also still has a snappy trigger return.

 

[H Richard]

Going too light can affect the trigger reset. The trigger may not return to battery fast enough. I settled on a 14 lb for the best compromise in lightened trigger pull, and reliable reset. Be sure and test your selection under multiple conditions before relying on it.

 

[gnystrom]

I have 14# rebound springs in every one of my S&W revolvers both snubbies and L-frames. I handload with any brand of primers I can buy and I never have light strikes. They seem like a nice compromise.

 

[WR Moore]

When did revolvers get recoil springs? Or are they only fitted down under cause the revolver is upside down from the factory location?

 

[Bobafett]

When did revolvers get recoil springs? Or are they only fitted down under cause the revolver is upside down from the factory location?

he meant rebound spring

 

[flagman1776]

Back in the days when officers could hand carry their guns to the Service Center in Springfield... the skilled gunsmith stated they only polished the rebound slide, not the recess. The story was the grooves in the recess held oil & didn't effect friction so long as the slide was mirror smooth.
Yes, they did replace the rebound springs (the OEM spring returned in the little plastic bags they always used.)

I'd add the cravat that while the recess might not need polishing, deburring would certainly be indicated.

 

[WR Moore]

he meant rebound spring

I know what he meant, it wasn't what he typed Kiwi cop apparently found it amusing and he typed it.

 

[jkmo]

Trigger return spring

 

[BLUEDOT37]

I have 14# rebound springs in every one of my S&W revolvers both snubbies and L-frames. I handload with any brand of primers I can buy and I never have light strikes.

Since the rebound slide's spring has nothing to do with how hard the hammer impacts the primer that would be a normal outcome especially if you're running factory mainsprings.

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