Pre-27 barrel markings- fix or leave alone?

[Resipsa]

Hello S&W Forum.

Last month I became the proud owner of a Pre-27, I believe from June of 1950. It is my first revolver. Serial number is S 765xx.
Purchased from bid on GB for $850.62.

I understand that after WWII, in 1948 SW restarted making the .357 Magnum with serial number 754xx.

Question: Did they continue making them as they had the pre-war unregistered .357's for any period of time? If/when they did change how they made them, what were the change(s)?

If anyone knows what was happening at SW between 1948 through 1950, I'd love to hear.

Finally, might someone know what caused the markings, that are only on the left side? When I run my finger over them they are smooth, as not there.

Is there a way to rid the barrel of the markings? Would the result effect the value of the revolver?

It's a sweet revolver, tight, nice trigger, SA is scary easy; was not fired, that black cone is unused and well as the blast plate.

Thank you for your time

 

[Photog]

Not sure about what caused the markings, almost looks like a chemical reaction to me. IMO, I would shoot it and not worry about it. You purchased for a good price and if you have it refinished, it will be difficult to match the original bluing. There are some people who do it, but it will cost you about 75% of the cost of the gun. Shoot it and enjoy!

 

[raljr1]

That is a great price for that 27. I too would be tempted to refinish it, but I probably would not.. i also might be tempted to touch it up with cold blue...I may get skewered for suggesting that.

Robert

 

[H Richard]

Do not refinish (unless you want the value to be cut in half). I would suggest a light polishing with something like Flitz. Do not rub hard. Anything left after cleaning will be "in" the finish. The use of cold blue is discouraged by any "collector".

As a shooter gun, an application of cold blue to protect the raw metal can help, but keeping it clean and dry after using and during storage will do as good.

 

[Resipsa]

Like Mothers?

 

[lestert357]

Hello S&W Forum.

Last month I became the proud owner of a Pre-27, I believe from June of 1950. It is my first revolver. Serial number is S 765xx.
Purchased from bid on GB for $850.62.

I understand that after WWII, in 1948 SW restarted making the .357 Magnum with serial number 754xx.

If anyone knows what was happening at SW between 1948 through 1950, I'd love to hear.

Congratulations on the acquisition of a very nice and fairly early postwar short action .357 Magnum. June 1950 sounds right.

The first postwar .357 Magnum, serial number S71642, was shipped on 12/05/46. This gun was a long action "Transitional" using many pre-war parts, but with the new hammer block safety and micrometer-click rear sight. Several more of these long action "Transitionals" were shipped in 1947, with most of them being shipped in 1948 and a couple more in 1949. Most of the known early postwar "Transitional" .357 Magnums were in the S71XXX serial number range with a few in the S72XXX range. The last known postwar "Transitional" .357 Magnum shipment was in March 1949. These guns, a total of approximately 142, were all manufactured at the old S&W plant on Stockbridge Street in downtown Springfield.

Production of the new short action .357 Magnum began at the new S&W plant on Roosevelt Avenue on the east side of Springfield with serial numbers S75514, S75515, S75516, S75517, S75519, and S75520 which were all shipped to Evaluators LTD, Quantico, VA on 11/18/49.

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you LesterT357 for the history. What is short vs long action?

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you Photog, I do plan to shoot and enjoy. I have shot 40 rounds of Underwood ammo 158 and 125 grain so far.

Could the barrel markings be from being kept in a holster long term?

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you raljr1. At first I had buyer's remorse, because two hours before end of bid, price was $562. My top bid was $852 and last bidder stopped at $850. I won with $850.62.

Pictures posted on GB did not do the actual revolver any justice. I love the revolver.

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you H Richard. Could it be that the polish (Mother's Mag Polish) could take some, most, or all of the markings off?

I found this on another site--Love to know forum's thoughts of this procedure:

Today I'll give you guys some insight on Blued revolver polishing and waxing.

Blued How-To

Note. Polishing blued firearms is a somewhat risky process. Any time you polish a blued finish some of the bluing is removed in the process. If your not careful you can get down to bare metal. The polishing process is intended for blued guns with very minor scratches and a coat of bluing that's not overly worn or thinned out. Waxing is good for any firearm you want to protect though.

Part's list
-mothers mag wheel polish
-clean cotton rags
-basic gun cleaning kit
-tooth brush
-your favorite gun oil/lube
-rubbing alcohol
-johnsons paste wax

1. The first thing we do is completely disassemble the gun and clean it. I like to soak and clean all of my parts in a warm water/dish soap solution. It works well to de-grease the gun an doesn't harm the finish. A tooth brush is good for hard to reach/dirty area's like the forcing cone and a bore brush works fine with the soap water for removing copper and lead fouling.

2. Once everything is cleaned and dry lay your parts out on a towel and look for the parts you want to polish/re-finish. In most cases's this will include the trigger, hammer, yoke, cylinder and frame/barrel.

3. Next wash your hands to make sure to make sure they have no oil on them and wipe the gun down with the rubbing alcohol. This will degrease the gun and remove any fingerprints.

4. Now for the polishing. This is a very delicate process. Select two clean cotton rags (Cloth 1 for applying polish and Cloth 2 for wiping off used polish). Take Cloth 1 and dab a pea sized amount of mothers mag polish on it. Rub the polish into a small section of Cloth 1 using your thumb. Next pick a small flat area of the frame to polish. Using light finger pressure make about 5 back and forth strokes on the small section you chose. Look at the rag and it should be a rust brown color. If it is then that section of the gun has been polished. Don not polish this section of the gun again. All we are trying to do is take the very top layer of blue off which should remove most small scratches and restore the depth of the blue. Use Cloth 2 to gently wipe any excess/dirty polish off. Move to the another section of the gun and try not to overlap polished areas. When your done the blue should have a more "liquidy" appearance and most small imperfections should be removed. Remember polishing a blued firearm is a one time thing, you've only got one shot so take your time and protect the finish when your done by waxing.

5. Waxing will make sure that the time you just put into your precious steel wasn't in vain. First repeat Step 3 to make for certain there is no residue on the gun or your hands. Next take your johnsons paste wax and apply an even coating (using a fresh cotton cloth) to one side of the parts you intend to protect (the frame/barrel, cylinder/crane, hammer and trigger). Let the wax dry to a haze and buff off with a clean cloth. Flip the parts over and repeat the process for the other side of the parts. This steps constitute 1 coating. For good protection and glossy depth I recommend at least 3 coats.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

I have both Mother's Mag and Flitz polishes.

I wouldn't touch one of my blued revolvers with Mother's.

Nice .357 Magnum!

 

[Hair Trigger]

Thank you LesterT357 for the history. What is short vs long action?

It has to do with the distance the hammer moves when drawn back to a SA cock, or its arc of movement when fired DA. It has to do with the geometry of where the hammer pin is located in the frame. There was a big hubbub about the change when it happened in the mid-late 1940's, lots of SA shooters complained the hammer pull was harder and not as smooth on the short action as compared to the long action.

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you. Would you use Flitz?

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you Hair Trigger for that information.

 

[2152hq]

Looks like it was laid down on a piece of paper that had something on it that removes bluing,,,maybe a food wrapper, sandwich wrapper with a bit of ketchup or other condiment residue on it would do it..

The pattern looks like it was simply laid down on it and them picked back up. Then never wiped off.
Residue like that will remove bluing in a few minutes from the edges that actually contact the steel and then stop.

I wouldn't try any restorative measures unless you are versed in bluing & polishing methods.

The more you 'pick' at it, the worse it's going to look. It's just the way that stuff is.
You either have to polish that damaged area down to the original factory look which means both directional polish grit lines and the correct gloss. Then re-blue using methods & techniques that matches the rest of the factory finish.
It's restoration.

Awfully nice looking pre-27.

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you. How terrible to let that happen if the way you said it happened. I thought maybe it was stored in a holster and the acid from maybe the leather did the markings.

Renaissance Wax Polish okay to use on the barrel, and obviously the rest of the revolver?

 

[Resipsa]

Well, at least the right side looks fine, and the left side has ... character.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Yes, I would use Flitz, sparingly and gently. May not make any difference, but might be worth a try.

Yes, Ren wax is a protectant. Again, gently. No need to scrub it on or off.

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you Cowboy.

 

[Resipsa]

Thank you 2152 Hq for the revolver compliment and advice.

I am not at all versed in bluing and polishing methods. I'm trying to educate myself through this forum.

My brother is in Colorado and a taxidermist. He told me on my next trip to CO he would use Van's cold bluing to blend it in with fine steel wool. Even though I purchased it as a shooter, I do not want to do anything that will devalue it.

I like knowing that when the Queen was still a princess, and the Korean War had just come into existence, someone at Smith and Wesson was building my revolver.