Pre Model 10 Question regarding Bluing

[Craypi]

Good afternoon, I purchased a pre model 10 - 2 inch 1946(?) ser# S 839xxx that had the bluing completely removed. The revolver was a metal grey color with a sealer. Since I had never seen or held a pre model 10 - 2 inch- I purchased the revolver. Since the revolver was in great condition and all #'s matched, I contacted S&W for re-finishing. S&W stated they do not re-finish revolvers prior to 1950 and referred me to Ford Company out of Florida. My question is:
"Was this stripping of bluing a thing" back in the day? And if so, why?
I have attached the completed pics, unfortunately I can't find the "before" pics. Thanks in advance

 

[Elroy]

Not a pre-10 more like an M&P especially with the long action lock works. Very nice.

 

[DWalt]

M&Ps made during the first few years after WWII have the old long action, and are usually referred to as “Postwar M&Ps.” Those with the later high speed short action, made until around 1958, are those M&Ps referred to as “pre-Model 10s”. Thereafter model numbering started. Neither term is official, S&W called them all M&Ps. Stripping of bluing was never a “thing.” No idea why anyone would ever do that other than prep for something like nickel plating it.

 

[MajorD]

As D Walt indicated the only real reason to remove the finish was in preparation o apply another. I have seen some strange things in my day regard to gun finish, with guns similarly stripped of all finish for no explicable reason.

 

[NY-1]

That reblue looks like it came out great. And the sideplate doesn't seem to stand out as it does in of some Ford's reblues. Very nice.

 

[JP@AK]

A large number of 2" square butt M&Ps were produced in the S839000 range. Most of them shipped in September/October, 1946.

The stocks on yours are period correct and probably original. Did you check to see if the correct serial number is stamped on the inside of the right panel? Maybe that was included in your "all numbers match" statement. If so, great!

Ford's did a nice job on the reblue.

 

[DWalt]

At that time, the original standard factory blue would probably have been duller than what the picture shows. But I believe S&W would do a bright blue finish for an additional cost. I have a slightly older (1947) M&P snubby having the duller blue finish.

 

[Craypi]

A large number of 2" square butt M&Ps were produced in the S839000 range. Most of them shipped in September/October, 1946.

The stocks on yours are period correct and probably original. Did you check to see if the correct serial number is stamped on the inside of the right panel? Maybe that was included in your "all numbers match" statement. If so, great!

Ford's did a nice job on the reblue.

Thank you, and the stocks do have the same 6 digit numbers as serial numbers on frame and cylinder.

 

[Craypi]

A large number of 2" square butt M&Ps were produced in the S839000 range. Most of them shipped in September/October, 1946.

The stocks on yours are period correct and probably original. Did you check to see if the correct serial number is stamped on the inside of the right panel? Maybe that was included in your "all numbers match" statement. If so, great!

Ford's did a nice job on the reblue.

Yes- all serial #'s do match including frame, stocks and cylinder

 

[Craypi]

M&Ps made during the first few years after WWII have the old long action, and are usually referred to as “Postwar M&Ps.” Those with the later high speed short action, made until around 1958, are those M&Ps referred to as “pre-Model 10s”. Thereafter model numbering started. Neither term is official, S&W called them all M&Ps. Stripping of bluing was never a “thing.” No idea why anyone would ever do that other than prep for something like nickel plating it.

The previous stripping of bluing appeared to have a sealer applied- and even the case color parts were discolored.

 

[Craypi]

At that time, the original standard factory blue would probably have been duller than what the picture shows. But I believe S&W would do a bright blue finish for an additional cost. I have a slightly older (1947) M&P snubby having the duller blue finish.

I asked Ford to try and bring the finish back to original as possible- I am very happy with the way it turned out, but still puzzled on the stripping of bluing- then sealing the finish..

 

[GyMac]

I think it looks beautiful and I much prefer it with the square butt. My snub Model 10 has the rounded butt , but the square one on my 15 snub feels much better (to me).

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Your M&P would have originally looked like this one. Also, it appears they redid the hammer and trigger case coloring.

 

[murphydog]

Something might have been spilled onto the gun that affected the finish but not the metal, like blood. Or someone might have planned on a nickel refinish but changed their mind. All’s well that ends well.

 

[2152hq]

There was somewhat of a fad, though a small one, in the 70's to polish guns and leave them 'In the White'.
Mostly handguns,, but some custom rifles as well.
Many were left bare and it was the maint job of the owner to keep them rust free. Others were coated very lightly with various clear coat sprays of the day to protect.

John Martz of Calif did all of his custom Luger and P38 pistol conversion pieces with this as a final finish and used a clear coating of some sort as well IIRC. The coating so fine that you can't really see it on the metal.

This was a fine finish for display pieces and occasional use. It came along at about the same time that the Engrave thru the Nickel Plating (and leave it as that) was done.

Each ran their course though you still see it now and again.
The 'In the White' finish is still used for small parts and accent on otherwise blued, case colored and plated pieces.

..and already pointed out,,it could have just been a revolver that someone polished out with plans to re-blue or plate and they never got around to it. (That's never happened before!)
They or someone else that ended up with it just coated the entire thing to protect it and called it good enough.

Brownells sells/did sell an after polish coating for gunsmiths to apply to fresh polished steel parts to protect them until it's re-bluing time.

 

[Craypi]

Your M&P would have originally looked like this one. Also, it appears they redid the hammer and trigger case coloring.

Yes, Ford did re-case color the hammer/trigger- when I purchased the revolver, the case coloring was also stripped/discolored

 

[Craypi]

There was somewhat of a fad, though a small one, in the 70's to polish guns and leave them 'In the White'.
Mostly handguns,, but some custom rifles as well.
Many were left bare and it was the maint job of the owner to keep them rust free. Others were coated very lightly with various clear coat sprays of the day to protect.

John Martz of Calif did all of his custom Luger and P38 pistol conversion pieces with this as a final finish and used a clear coating of some sort as well IIRC. The coating so fine that you can't really see it on the metal.

This was a fine finish for display pieces and occasional use. It came along at about the same time that the Engrave thru the Nickel Plating (and leave it as that) was done.

Each ran their course though you still see it now and again.
The 'In the White' finish is still used for small parts and accent on otherwise blued, case colored and plated pieces.

..and already pointed out,,it could have just been a revolver that someone polished out with plans to re-blue or plate and they never got around to it. (That's never happened before!)
They or someone else that ended up with it just coated the entire thing to protect it and called it good enough.

Brownells sells/did sell an after polish coating for gunsmiths to apply to fresh polished steel parts to protect them until it's re-bluing time.

This makes the most sense!! I wish I could find the before pics (Ford had the revolver about 7 months) and post them..

 

[Craypi]

Your M&P would have originally looked like this one. Also, it appears they redid the hammer and trigger case coloring.

Yes, Ford did re-case color the hammer/trigger- when I purchased the revolver, the case coloring was also stripped/discolored

 

[DGNY]

Welcome and just want to say- I find that revolver greatly attractive with new blueing and the case coloring. That it is all numbers-matching is a super bonus. I am a firm believer that if an article is missing its finish, or if the owner prefers something new, that is a worthy personal choice. Thank you for sharing.

May it serve you long and well in whatever capacity(ies) you may choose, carry, range work, plinking, or just contemplating that new deep blueing!

 

[DWalt]

Brownells sells/did sell an after polish coating for gunsmiths to apply to fresh polished steel parts to protect them until it's re-bluing time.

Our method was to keep polished components in containers of mineral spirits (PD-680) until they were to be blued.