There's really no reason to adjust for windage, as it pretty much shoots to point of aim anyway. The front sight was made out of either stainless or aluminum or some other white metal that won't take cold blue. Since the frame has been modified, I guess there's not much reason to try and find a replacement sight set. I would, however, like to find some larger stocks for it. These tiny things just bounce around all over inside these oven mitt size hands of mine.
Pre war .22/32 mistake.
- Thread starter Dvus
- Start date
This is getting more terrifying every time you guys look at a picture!
And if it ain't terrifying, it's certainly way more challenging; and I sure am glad it isn't my gun!!
My greatest challenge was getting a new arrival ready for its welcome bath---taking it ALL apart for openers---never mind if I'd done it before. The best, or worst, depending on your point of view, was my first Straight Line. The best I could come up by way of a cheat-sheet was the X-Ray photo and the patent drawing in N&J. The second one was easier.
Ralph Tremaine
And if it ain't terrifying, it's certainly way more challenging; and I sure am glad it isn't my gun!!
My greatest challenge was getting a new arrival ready for its welcome bath---taking it ALL apart for openers---never mind if I'd done it before. The best, or worst, depending on your point of view, was my first Straight Line. The best I could come up by way of a cheat-sheet was the X-Ray photo and the patent drawing in N&J. The second one was easier.
Ralph Tremaine
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I have seen a few examples of the .22/32 HFT's with a broken rear sight mid way between the 2 screws. The ones that I am familiar with have a front and rear screw and it is my humble opinion that owners trying to raise the rear portion of the sight would merely crank down on the rear screw without backing off the front screw a little. This put the entire tang under pressure and the possible result was that it cracked in half. I can not examine my hypothesis further because the 4 rear sight screws are so small that you would need a set of watchmakers screw drivers to make any headway. Plus if I break anything while examining, replacement parts seen to be hard to come by.
The highest HFT serial number currently in my collection is 529482 and it shipped to Shapleigh Hardware in St. Louis, MO on 3-6-1936. It has a Patridge front sight with the square notch rear. As mentioned earlier it has 4 screws on the rear sight. There are 2 on what I call the tang, basically lining up with the front and rear of the cylinder and one on each side of the rear sight blade.
It is my opinion that in order to change the windage you had to first loosen the screw on the side that you were moving the blade to and then tighten the screw on the opposite side to lock the blade down again. This is merely a guess on my part as I have never actually played around with the screws.
Should someone have differing information I am willing to learn.
The kit gun was introduced at 527700 but it is reported that a few examples were built earlier than that.
The earliest one that shows up in my database is 496671 shipped on 4/1/1929 but without a letter I can't say if it shipped that way or an owner sent back a 6" HFT and had the barrel changed.
Gonna go watch some football and relax, later boys and girls....
The highest HFT serial number currently in my collection is 529482 and it shipped to Shapleigh Hardware in St. Louis, MO on 3-6-1936. It has a Patridge front sight with the square notch rear. As mentioned earlier it has 4 screws on the rear sight. There are 2 on what I call the tang, basically lining up with the front and rear of the cylinder and one on each side of the rear sight blade.
It is my opinion that in order to change the windage you had to first loosen the screw on the side that you were moving the blade to and then tighten the screw on the opposite side to lock the blade down again. This is merely a guess on my part as I have never actually played around with the screws.
Should someone have differing information I am willing to learn.
The kit gun was introduced at 527700 but it is reported that a few examples were built earlier than that.
The earliest one that shows up in my database is 496671 shipped on 4/1/1929 but without a letter I can't say if it shipped that way or an owner sent back a 6" HFT and had the barrel changed.
Gonna go watch some football and relax, later boys and girls....
A correct rear sight would not be affected by the frame modifications.
There’s great post war oversized grips for your gun that are not hard to find. I’ll try to post photos tomorrow.
The sight adjustment and attaching screws become child's play with Lowes (Kobalt) Precision Screwdriver Set (#0525844). Their main claim to fame is the handles---which in marked contrast to Jeweler's screwdrivers can be held onto with your hands------rather than your fingers.
This is a very low priced set (for 10 screwdrivers-----$12-$15 back when I bought mine) which strongly suggests they're junk. I've been using and thankful for this junk for a loooooooooong time, and it appears they're good to go for a loooooooong time yet.
On the other hand, I also have an exquisite set of 6 Jeweler's screwdrivers (in an equally exquisite wooden case) from Brownells which cost a mere $75---which I've NEVER found any use for.
Take your pick!!
Ralph Tremaine
This is a very low priced set (for 10 screwdrivers-----$12-$15 back when I bought mine) which strongly suggests they're junk. I've been using and thankful for this junk for a loooooooooong time, and it appears they're good to go for a loooooooong time yet.
On the other hand, I also have an exquisite set of 6 Jeweler's screwdrivers (in an equally exquisite wooden case) from Brownells which cost a mere $75---which I've NEVER found any use for.
Take your pick!!
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph, I did acquire a set of screwdrivers from Brownells IIRC but as stated I am reluctant to mess with these baby sized screws because my only need would be as an investigator. Damaging something like the screw or scratching the frame would not be worth learning how they function.
I will leave that up to someone more brave then me.
I will leave that up to someone more brave then me.
Bravery is a primary concern!!
Every now and then I'd come across an attaching screw on a pre-war target that very clearly was not the least bit inclined to move. Don't even think about it!!
Off I go to my gunsmith. About 10 minutes, and $20 later, back he comes, gun in hand---screw loose. If one were so gauche as to ask, "How'd you do that?!", he'd say, "It's amazing what a little heat will do." Now I knew better than to ask, "How much heat---and where?", because the answer to that is what the $20 was for. (And he NEVER boogered a screw, or put a scratch on the frame!!)
After not too long of pondering bravery, and one thing and another, it occurred to me the screw would be a whole lot more inclined to move, and move in short order, if you could get some magic screw thawing potion directly to the threads----and quickly! (Kroil works GREAT!!)
Here's how: Elevate the sight enough to expose the channel in the frame under the tang---and the higher you elevate the sight, the better----run it right on up. Secure the gun in an upright, barrel somewhat down position; and pour some magic potion directly into the channel---so it'll run right down directly to the threads. Then go do something worthwhile for a spell----like play with your children's mother.
When you come back, and give that screw another try, it's going to come loose----and all this is going to take a whole lot less time than pouring the magic potion on the screw head----time after time after time, and waiting for days for enough of it to seep past the head to get to the threads.
All this comes under the heading of time management-----and aggravation management--and $20 per screw management.
Ralph Tremaine
Every now and then I'd come across an attaching screw on a pre-war target that very clearly was not the least bit inclined to move. Don't even think about it!!
Off I go to my gunsmith. About 10 minutes, and $20 later, back he comes, gun in hand---screw loose. If one were so gauche as to ask, "How'd you do that?!", he'd say, "It's amazing what a little heat will do." Now I knew better than to ask, "How much heat---and where?", because the answer to that is what the $20 was for. (And he NEVER boogered a screw, or put a scratch on the frame!!)
After not too long of pondering bravery, and one thing and another, it occurred to me the screw would be a whole lot more inclined to move, and move in short order, if you could get some magic screw thawing potion directly to the threads----and quickly! (Kroil works GREAT!!)
Here's how: Elevate the sight enough to expose the channel in the frame under the tang---and the higher you elevate the sight, the better----run it right on up. Secure the gun in an upright, barrel somewhat down position; and pour some magic potion directly into the channel---so it'll run right down directly to the threads. Then go do something worthwhile for a spell----like play with your children's mother.
When you come back, and give that screw another try, it's going to come loose----and all this is going to take a whole lot less time than pouring the magic potion on the screw head----time after time after time, and waiting for days for enough of it to seep past the head to get to the threads.
All this comes under the heading of time management-----and aggravation management--and $20 per screw management.
Ralph Tremaine
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Dvus,
Factory smooth target stocks that fit your Kit Gun and they’re re also made with checkering:
Photo courtesy of bronco45
Factory finger groove combat stocks w/medallions:
Factory smooth target stocks that fit your Kit Gun and they’re re also made with checkering:
Photo courtesy of bronco45
Factory finger groove combat stocks w/medallions:
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I do not believe the frame has been altered. I believe you are looking at normal contours, some dried oil/age scum, and refracted light.
I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
I look forward to the pics but I have to say I compared your blowup pics to my pre war kit gun and from the side view, that’s more of a square corner on my gun.
But why would someone recontour those corners? Perhaps one corner was dinged up? Perhaps the missing frame damage from a speculated drop that damaged the rear sight???
But why would someone recontour those corners? Perhaps one corner was dinged up? Perhaps the missing frame damage from a speculated drop that damaged the rear sight???
I track the prewar Kit Guns and may have noticed this one in two past auctions. I won't mention the serial number here to observe the OP's preference, but I sent the number to him so he can take note of or discard anything I say here.
First, I have logged 13 separate prewar Kit Guns with 529xxx serial numbers Among those whose ship dates I know, all but two were shipped in 1936 and two in early 1937. In my catalog I have a round butt KG with serial number 5297xx with no comments about the rear sight, but noting that the front site is of a "scooped" design. I first observed the revolver in a Gunbroker auction in July 1910; it was sold through GB again earlier this year. I do not remember the occasion on which I added the most recent date. Someone may have called it to my attention. The design of neither the front sight nor the rear one exactly matches anything I recall seeing on any other S&W target revolver with adjustable sights.
First, I have logged 13 separate prewar Kit Guns with 529xxx serial numbers Among those whose ship dates I know, all but two were shipped in 1936 and two in early 1937. In my catalog I have a round butt KG with serial number 5297xx with no comments about the rear sight, but noting that the front site is of a "scooped" design. I first observed the revolver in a Gunbroker auction in July 1910; it was sold through GB again earlier this year. I do not remember the occasion on which I added the most recent date. Someone may have called it to my attention. The design of neither the front sight nor the rear one exactly matches anything I recall seeing on any other S&W target revolver with adjustable sights.
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FWIW, I pulled these KG's from my database. Those that follow these may already have this information but I offer it anyway.
527711 4/1938
529453 no date
529482 3/6/1936 My 6" HFT just to show they were mixed in
529488 5/18/1936
529751 1/29/1937
529809 2/10/1937
530003 no date
530112 4/28/1937
530140 8/4/1937
530147 7/31/1937
530150 11/22/1937
530151 8/28/1937
530157 8/6/1937
The list goes on with the majority being 4" barrel kit guns with the occasional HFT mixed in.
If anyone has either an HFT or a kit gun they would like to add, I would be happy to enter the information.
527711 4/1938
529453 no date
529482 3/6/1936 My 6" HFT just to show they were mixed in
529488 5/18/1936
529751 1/29/1937
529809 2/10/1937
530003 no date
530112 4/28/1937
530140 8/4/1937
530147 7/31/1937
530150 11/22/1937
530151 8/28/1937
530157 8/6/1937
The list goes on with the majority being 4" barrel kit guns with the occasional HFT mixed in.
If anyone has either an HFT or a kit gun they would like to add, I would be happy to enter the information.
Modified
Member
A good year for Gunbroker. The triple locks were thick on the site at that time, and cheap!
James
You can add Kit Gun 530141. It shipped in July, 1937, according to Roy. It isn't lettered, so I can't supply the exact date.
Jack,
Thank you for the information. FWIW, I have 530147 in my database that shipped on 7/13/1937. Very possibly a ship mate of yours.
I am assuming that your gun has a small S&W logo on the left side, made in USA on the right and recessed chambers.
What about stocks, front sight and condition?
Thank you for the information. FWIW, I have 530147 in my database that shipped on 7/13/1937. Very possibly a ship mate of yours.
I am assuming that your gun has a small S&W logo on the left side, made in USA on the right and recessed chambers.
What about stocks, front sight and condition?
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