Pre-war K-22? Heavy Target Frame? Both?

[mac357mag]

A dear friend passed a few months ago, and I've agreed to help his widow dispose of some guns that he had inherited. Neither he or his widow know anything about firearms, and neither had any idea of what was in the collection. I picked up the guns two days ago, and this was in the box. Yeah, I know, but this time it really happened! Please see the attached pictures.


I've been around firearms for over 60 years but have zero experience with Smith's. I've been told that this is likely a pre-war K-22 (no "K" in the serial number), possibly a "Masterpiece" or "Heavy Frame Target". Images that I've seen of K-22's make this appear likely.


I'm looking for model confirmation, shipping/manufacturing dates and a ballpark estimated value for estate purposes. I'm not sure that they wish to sell the gun, but would like to know what it's worth in today's market. I know where I'd LIKE to see it end up, but that is yet to be approved by the CFO.


DATA:


Serial Number: 458599
Left side of barrel: SMITH & WESSON
Top of barrel: Two Lines: (1) SMITH & WESSON SPRINGFIELD MASS. USA, (2) PATENTED FEB.6, 06, SEPT. 14, 08, DEC. 29, 14
Rt. side of barrel: 22 LONG RIFLE CTG
6" Barrel
Nothing under yoke except assembly number
Cylinders are not recessed (See pic.)
Mushroom button ejector rod tip?

5-screw, including strain screw. Sorry, I didn't think to take a right side view showing screws.
Rear sight: Adjustable e/w
Front sight: White bead blade w/"35-A" on rt. side and "MARBLES" on left side.
Grips are not numbered
Frame: Lft. Side: S&W rolled logo, Rt. Side: "MADE IN USA" just forward of the front frame screw.



The gun retains 95-98% of the original gorgeous blue/black finish.



Currently, the hinge is VERY stiff even after soaking with penetrating oil for two days. Any advice on how to remedy this would be fantastic.



The gun appears fully functional in all other respects.



The bore is pristine, and the trigger is feather light and breaks crisply when dropped on a snap cap.



As I said, any information as to manufacturing date, shipping date, estimated current value (ballpark figure just fine), etc., would be greatly appreciated.


Thank you in advance for any aid you might be able to render.


mac357mag

 

[handejector]

That is NOT a K-22.

That is a 22/32 Heavy Frame Target. You'll gets plenty of data shortly....

 

[JP@AK]

As Lee stated, this is a .22/32 Heavy Frame Target model. The likely ship year is 1926 I think. I have one at 423630 that shipped in January of that year.

The stocks are consistent with a 1920s HFT, as is the fact the charge holes are not counterbored.

Pretty nice piece.

 

[larryofcc]

The right stock was numbered in pencil. Very hard to see sometime. Good strong light and a magnifying glass may be needed. Big Larry

 

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. Your revolver is an I frame size, not K frame. Similar, but smaller size revolver. MADE IN USA appeared in 1922 and the mushroom shaped ejector rod knob disappeared in 1927. Can you post a photo of the box and the end label?

 

[mac357mag]

That is NOT a K-22.

That is a 22/32 Heavy Frame Target. You'll gets plenty of data shortly....

Thanks (again), Lee! As I mentioned, when it comes to S&W, I'm out of my depth. The help is greatly appreciated!

 

[mac357mag]

Welcome to the Forum. Your revolver is an I frame size, not K frame. Similar, but smaller size revolver. MADE IN USA appeared in 1922 and the mushroom shaped ejector rod knob disappeared in 1927. Can you post a photo of the box and the end label?

Great info, Gary! Thanks! No box available, I'm afraid.


It's looking as if the ship date is sometime in the '26-'27 time frame.


Thanks, again, for the help!


mac357mag

 

[mac357mag]

As Lee stated, this is a .22/32 Heavy Frame Target model. The likely ship year is 1926 I think. I have one at 423630 that shipped in January of that year.

The stocks are consistent with a 1920s HFT, as is the fact the charge holes are not counterbored.

Pretty nice piece.

That narrows it down considerably. Thanks!


mac357mag

 

[mac357mag]

The right stock was numbered in pencil. Very hard to see sometime. Good strong light and a magnifying glass may be needed. Big Larry

Thanks, BL! I'll check it out tomorrow when I get back into the shop.


mac357mag

 

[mac357mag]

Stiff Hinge?

The cylinder hinge is VERY stiff. In fact, when I first got the gun the cylinder was frozen into the frame. It's a better than even proposition that it hadn't been operated for 30-50 years.


I soaked it for three days while intermittently attempting to work the cylinder until I got it to actually open fully, but only with a LOT more force than I'm comfortable with using. I've tried soaking in penetrating oil, mild heat, exercising the hinge, etc. It's still functionally unusable.


Is there something other than 'gunk' in the hinge that might make stiffen up like that?


Because the gun isn't mine (yet?), I'm not really comfortable tearing it down. Maybe the best bet would be to just sit tight until ownership issues are solved and the decide whether or not to tear into it or take it to a gunsmith. I'd really hate to screw it up.



mac357mag

 

[murphydog]

Try loosening the "yoke retention screw", the one furthest forward on the sideplate near "Made In U.S.A." The yoke may be binding on it.

If so, one of the other sideplate screws is very similar to that one and may have been switched to the wrong position.

 

[Ricsen]

Very nice pistol….and I agree wholeheartedly with the above post. I bet you’ll find that the similar side plate screw has been mistakenly switched in the past. Encountered that a few times and it causes exactly what you describe. Good luck and again, nice pistol.

 

[mac357mag]

So, I'm looking for a shorter screw, same thread, same head size?


Thanks!


Leonard

 

[desi2358]

So, I'm looking for a shorter screw, same thread, same head size?


Thanks!


Leonard

Odds are one of the two other frame screws with the same size head is in the wrong hole. If you take them out and compare them you should see one that is slightly different than the other two. That's the one that should go in the front hole. Like other posters have mentioned I too have seen this problem before and it's usually due to someone accidentally switching screw locations.

 

[murphydog]

Usually the yoke retention screw will be slightly 'shorter' than the one causing the binding. It is an individually fitted part, meaning slightly long and then carefully shortened to retain yet not bind.

 

[raljr1]

Looks to be in pretty nice shape. Probably worth $1100 to $1400 today...

Robert

 

[gmborkovic]

Hello Mac, nice gun. Can you post a pic of the right side, with close up of the screws.

 

[mac357mag]

No joy on the screws, I'm afraid. The side plate had been removed at one time (small scratches around the holes), so I'd had real hope that the screws were going to be the problem.

Here's a couple of pics. Pic1 is, obviously, the side plate and Pic2 shows the three screws in their current relative position. The two long screws are, if you will, in West and South and the shorter screw is in East. The fourth screw near the hammer (North) has a larger head, and from my understanding doesn't enter into the discussion.


Sorry 'bout the lack of sharpness. No tripod, low light, short distance and three cups of coffee.


Lifting the side plate and peeking inside only reinforced my belief that I have no business poking around there. My local range has a gunsmith they promote as a S&W specialist. Might be time for a visit. A full disassembly and maintenance check is probably in order, anyway.


Thanks to all for the help. I'm enjoying the journey!


Leonard

 

[glowe]

Without the screw in place, you should be able to remove the crane and cylinder now. Open the cylinder and grab hold of the crane and twist slightly back and forth while pulling the large pin out of the frame. If needed, put some penetrating oil in the screw hole and at the joint to help. After it is out, take some images of the pin and yoke area.

 

[mac357mag]

Without the screw in place, you should be able to remove the crane and cylinder now. Open the cylinder and grab hold of the crane and twist slightly back and forth while pulling the large pin out of the frame. If needed, put some penetrating oil in the screw hole and at the joint to help. After it is out, take some images of the pin and yoke area.

Managed to locate an exploded diagram of a 22/32. I can see what you're talking about.


I'm on it!!


Thanks a BUNCH!


Leonard



L.