Presentation case question??

[Model29-26.5]

There are a lot of presentation cases being sold on eBay…, and a lot of revolvers being sold with no presentation case.
Obviously, some of these match up, but worse, some end frame revolvers just sold with the box in low case, and only a certain percentage of N frames ordered with the presentation case?

As anyone attempted to make a replica presentation case?
Really shouldn’t be too difficult for anyone with a decent wood shot. Quarter inch box joints. I was told by Randy Tillis that the back hinges are still made today, but not the front latch.

Once you have the jig and the quarter inch spaces correct, you could probably put together a dozen of these boxes in pretty short order..

3/8 inch mahogany which would be bought as half inch I guess?

Any thoughts on such a project?

I know that Randy, and Southern collectibles are both making line, but no one is making the cases correctly.,

There is a company, Hampels, that does a nice job, but the dimensions are just a little over and the box joint, but for 35 bucks for a 4 inch case, it’s pretty good value if you’re not worried about it being original.

 

[jcelect]

The Mahogany cases from S&W were made fast and cheap! Many times the wood was not completely dry which made the corner joints shrink and the glue joints to separate. Any craftsmen with the proper tools should be able to make a presentation case better than the S&W Mahogany case ! The problem with trying to duplicate the S&W Mahogany cases is in duplicating the 4 different type liners! RT44Nut (Randy Tillis) has mastered the task of duplicating the liners used from about 1975-1979.

 

[BillBro]

Did Smith Honduras mahogany? They look quite light in color especially for their ages, at least of the older ones. Many types of mahogany and I have quite a few of them.
Personally I have never owned a smith that had the presentation case until I bought my latest 29 and I don't pick it up for a few more days. I'll have a look at making one. I am a wooden shipwright so I can't make anything square though. JK.
So someone here can make the inserts or restore them, or both? The one I just bought could use a little help. Not too bad but not new looking either.

 

['79 Magnum GT]

Did Smith Honduras mahogany? They look quite light in color especially for their ages, at least of the older ones. Many types of mahogany and I have quite a few of them.
Personally I have never owned a smith that had the presentation case until I bought my latest 29 and I don't pick it up for a few more days. I'll have a look at making one. I am a wooden shipwright so I can't make anything square though. JK.
So someone here can make the inserts or restore them, or both? The one I just bought could use a little help. Not too bad but not new looking either.

Randy is the guy.

Rick

 

[boykinlp]

The Mahogany cases from S&W were made fast and cheap! Many times the wood was not completely dry which made the corner joints shrink and the glue joints to separate. Any craftsmen with the proper tools should be able to make a presentation case better than the S&W Mahogany case ! The problem with trying to duplicate the S&W Mahogany cases is in duplicating the 4 different type liners! RT44Nut (Randy Tillis) has mastered the task of duplicating the liners used from about 1975-1979.

What can be done when the glue joints separate? I am afraid pushing them back together will break something.
Larry

 

[BillBro]

Where have the joints moved to? Are they the finger joint? What does the glue look like? If it's hide glue, golden or dark brown, hot water makes it new again. If the wood has more ed alot though I don't know what you could do. Got any pics?

 

[boykinlp]

Where have the joints moved to? Are they the finger joint? What does the glue look like? If it's hide glue, golden or dark brown, hot water makes it new again. If the wood has more ed alot though I don't know what you could do. Got any pics?

Actually BillBro, I dug the case out and it wasn’t as bad as I had remembered. Sometimes I get a little OCD probably like everyone else does on this forum. But here are a couple of pictures of the slight separation. Is there anything that I can do without causing damage, or just leave it alone?
Larry

 

[BillBro]

Can you get a glimpse of the glue? Or maybe folks here know what they tended to use. If its something like a titebond it seals the pores and doesn't permit reapplication. B ideglue will reconstitute with hot water and a little more glue and work fine. Titebond makes a fine hideous. Iys in a brown bottle.
Given the dimensions of the wood and the small gaps try padding a clamp and see how easily it closes up. I think it'll close up ok.
That should be your first step.

 

[boykinlp]

Can you get a glimpse of the glue? Or maybe folks here know what they tended to use. If its something like a titebond it seals the pores and doesn't permit reapplication. B ideglue will reconstitute with hot water and a little more glue and work fine. Titebond makes a fine hideous. Iys in a brown bottle.
Given the dimensions of the wood and the small gaps try padding a clamp and see how easily it closes up. I think it'll close up ok.
That should be your first step.

I can’t see any glue. Maybe someone here knows what they use. The mahogany doesn’t seem very strong to me.
Larry

 

[Dana L Haynes]

Elmers works fine for me

 

[jcelect]

Boykinlp
NOTE, the back face and the end face is flush with the top and bottom panels! That means the pieces of the end and/or the back have shrunk because they where worked before being complete dry! You can not add wood to the fingers of the joint!
Trying to clamp any part of this case will cause more damage thn you have now!

 

[boykinlp]

Boykinlp
NOTE, the back face and the end face is flush with the top and bottom panels! That means the pieces of the end and/or the back have shrunk because they where worked before being complete dry! You can not add wood to the fingers of the joint!
Trying to clamp any part of this case will cause more damage thn you have now!

Thanks for your advice, Joe! I never would’ve thought about the panels shrinking, but that makes sense. I’ll spruce up the outside and be done with it.
Larry

 

[BillBro]

Boykinlp
NOTE, the back face and the end face is flush with the top and bottom panels! That means the pieces of the end and/or the back have shrunk because they where worked before being complete dry! You can not add wood to the fingers of the joint!
Trying to clamp any part of this case will cause more damage thn you have now!

Unless that glue is hide glue, which used to be very widely used because its great glue. It can be reconstituted with hot water and it will work like the day it was originally used.
Why will clamping any part of the case cause damage? Just curious.

Update:
Since I only have one Smith that came in a presentation case I opened it to look and the glue is obviously hide glue, at least in mine, circa 1974-75.