Pricing a 586

[Mstorm]

What do you guys think is a reasonable price for a 586 no dash,4" barrel, no box, in 95% condition. Looking to see if these L-frames are any improvement over my 66 and 19 (especially with regard to recoil--the weight difference I know matters but does 7-8% more weight really make that much difference).
Or is the selling point that these L-frames can handle 357 better over time than the K's (my gunsmith seems to think you'd need to really shoot A LOT of 357s versus 38s to actually possibly ever see the dreaded forcing cone crack). But would love to hear the thoughts of you guys that actually run these L-frames. All my Smiths to date are K frames and I generally shoot 38s or 38+Ps out of them with the very occasional 357s.

 

[CH4]

I just bought a 98% 4” no dash sans box for $760. I know of a ANIB -3 for $950.

 

[Engine49guy]

The L frame was purpose built for a steady diet of Magnum loads and can safely fire lighter hotter 110 grain .357 loads as it doesn't have the thin flat spot on the forcing cone that the K Magnum has.
As for weight the std 4" full underlug 586 will weigh a tad more than a 4" Model 19,
probably a bigger difference on the 6" versions.

On the other hand IIRC my four inch Model 686-5+ Mountain gun weighs less than my four inch Model 66 and has 7 shots vs 6.

Be aware the 586/686 ( no dash) has a standing recall to replace the hammer nose bushing due to a phenomenon known as "Soft Primer flowback", Apparently certain ammunition back then could lock up the cylinder which was a problem in a duty gun especially when exchanging hostile gunfire,
modified versions will have the letter "M" stamped in the yoke cut,
you don't need to send it back asap but reportedly when you do the factory will usually do a tuneup gratis.

My early 586 never went back for the M mod as it's a collector piece that I don't shoot.

 

[rwsmith]

The barrel length......

...weighs in on the 586/686 line and 4" is desirable. 6" barrels go for slightly less $$. They were MADE for shooting full .357 mag and the full lug helps control the muzzle flip.

 

[Beemerguy53]

I can't offer any objective data, but I own a 4" 586, 4" 686, and a 2-1/2" 686. In comparison to my K-Frames, the L-Frames feel more robust and stronger...just heftier.

Just a guess here, but if you can get a 95% 4" 586 for under $800, I think that's a really good buy in today's market, especially with the original grips.

Please let us know what you decide to do...good luck!

 

[DETROIT]

Location can impact price, 600-800 depending its condition and the grips it’s wearing

 

[stansdds]

The K-frame 357's were really intended to shoot mostly 38 Special ammo, then 357 ammo for familiarization and carry. Issues with forcing cone erosion and cracking came along with law enforcement agencies going to a policy of practicing with 357 duty ammo and switching the very high velocity 125 grain JHP magnum loads. S&W created the L-frame to cope with these issues. The L-frame is slightly larger than the K-frame, the barrel shank does not have a flat spot for cylinder yoke clearance, and the full length under lug puts more weight towards the muzzle, helping to reduce muzzle rise. If you are going to shoot a lot of 357 magnum ammo, the L-frame makes a lot of sense.

One caveat is that modern production Model 19 and 66 revolvers use a different barrel system which eliminates the flat spot. These new K-frame 357's are a good option for carry and should withstand full power 357 ammo better than the older K-frames.

 

[22hipower]

I'd be surprised to find a really nice one, even without the box, priced at less than $1k where I shop. I sold a 99% 4 inch blue one (no box) for $900 two years ago and found another (4 inch nickel also without box) for a friend who was happy to pay $1k for it. Don't think they've gotten any less valuable in the last two years.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[biku324]

Just bought a 1989 686 commemorative unfired for $950 a few months ago. It's a real shooter! Wanna buy a pretty wooden box and a numbered US Treasury belt buckle?

 

[Pizza Bob]

Bought this four inch 586 ND with box, docs and tools in July of 2022 for $625...

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[reddog81]

FWIW you can get a new 686 6" from Palmetto State Armory for $699 and they have a $75 rebate running right now. I'd have a hard time paying an extra 50% for a used model but it comes down to what exactly you want.

 

[CH4]

FWIW you can get a new 686 6" from Palmetto State Armory for $699 and they have a $75 rebate running right now. I'd have a hard time paying an extra 50% for a used model but it comes down to what exactly you want.

I am one who'd gladly pay the extra 50%.

 

[DETROIT]

Bought this four inch 586 ND with box, docs and tools in July of 2022 for $625...

Adios,

Pizza Bob

That was a great deal!

 

[Xfuzz]

First year productions with box/tools and paperwork
N.I.B.
Show this weekend....going to table it at $1100.00(blue)
Not sure exactly what it will pull.

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

In Houston, good condition stock K-frames run $850-$1200. I lucked on a dirty, used 586 with a chipped grip at a gun show that the dealer did not want to take home. Cleaned up nice and enjoyed it and the chipped grip since.

 

[CajunBass]

There was a VERY nice 586-6 at my LGS this morning, tagged at just a few pennies under $800.00. I didn't ask about box, papers or such. I was afraid if I touched it the nanobots would get into my system and I wouldn't be able to live without it.

I'm one who resisted the "L" frame for years, until I bought my first 686 about 6 months ago. I am really impressed.

 

[Mstorm]

To all you kind folks who tried to help me out (this forum is truly the best I've ever found) I bought one this weekend at auction. Likely overpaid but really wanted a nickel version --so in my instance a nickel 586, 4", no-dash in "excellent condition" wearing Pachmeyer (not original grips), sans box brought $1050 delivered----still haven't seen it so I'm hoping the dealer's version of "excellent condition" and my version of that phrase are the same, we'll see. So, I figure I overpaid by about $100-$250, given the input I recieved. One of my LGSs had a similar version and they wanted $1250 "out the door"--they might have negotiated but they haven't in the past and when they do it's usually just $50 bucks. The lack of original grips didn't phase me much since I normally take them off and store them anyway and put on Houge's rubber gripper "short reach" versions -- have smaller hands and those make a perfect fit to the trigger. But again, my thanks for all your help

 

[scout II]

I really like my nickel 586. Here is an older picture of it, it now has Pachmayers on it and I think it looks better.
Don't forget to post pictures of your new-to-you nickel 586.

 

[Dave686]

You won’t notice much difference in recoil from your K-frames. 66’s are 19’s are great guns. The only reason to add an L-frame, is simply because you want an L-frame. I own J-Frames, K-frames, L-Frames, and carried them all on duty decades ago. I also shot K-frames and L-Frames both in competition, no difference in PPC.

Is the .357 and forcing cones an issue?? No. Maybe back in the day when you had someone shooting 1000’s of rounds of .357Mag, that may have been an issue, although I doubt it. You, like most others are shooting .38’s with occasionally shooting .357’s. So, it’s a non-issue. Who can afford to shoot 1000's of .357Mag's nowadays?

The L-frame was designed and marketed due to the fact that some believed being a heavier Ruger was better. It’s ridiculous, but that’s what caused it.

Price wise… Unless you are set on a 586, I’d look at new 686’s. They are more available than 586’s and a new 686 can possibly be had for less than most used ones. New will have the lock. Will you be carrying it as a defensive handgun? Of course you won’t, so the lock will make no difference.

Good luck with your search.