Problem with my new 442... binding???

[josh8042]

Hi. First of all let me just say, I don't know much about revolvers (I'm more of an autoloader guy). So if your answers include a lot of technical jargon, I probably won't understand what the smell you are talking about. Please use layman's terms or if you must use technical terms please explain in detail.
Ok, now the problem I am having is the trigger seems to be intermittantly having what I believe feels like a binding problem right at the very beginning of the squeeze. It will suddenly become very very tight for a moment and then it will sort of snap back to normal once I apply enough force to get past the initial binding phase. I checked to make sure the rounds were not causing the binding and they don't appear to be (to clarify, i checked using snap caps... be safe). It's possible the hammer might be snagging on some other metal part inside (I have not opened up the side plate to look inside). Furthermore the trigger pull is not any where near as smooth as any other S&W I've shot and I measured the trigger squeeze at a whopping 14 pounds. This seems excessive to me (rated spec is supposed to be about 12) which also leads me to believe that whatever is binding the hammer might be dragging along it during the entire length of the trigger squeeze. This is just a theory, I'm not even for certain that it's possible. Anybody have any experience with this kind of issue? Can you offer any advise other than the usual 'send it back for repairs'?

 

[6pack]

14lbs......and "binding"...doesn't sound so hot. I'd have to consider getting that gun checked out by S&W.

I've had a lot of guns smooth out after some substantial range time but your gun seems excessive and like something may be obstructing the action unduly. I know that's got to be aggravating.

 

[ADP3]

Your problem could relate to crud or unburned flakes of powder under the extractor. This would cause the extractor to protude and bear against the frame causing binding. Solvent and a toothbrush and Q-Tip will take care of the crud.

Another place to check is the ejector rod. With use they sometimes unscrew and cause binding and difficult opening. Be careful with tightening the rod as they have reverse threads.

The next place that I would check would be the mainspring stirrup. It's a pretty easy removal and burrs on the stirrup can cause the mainspring to bind. Remove your grips and use a small paper clip or needle to arrest the mainspring. Slowly pull the trigger on your unloaded (of course) 442 as the stirrup is depressed by the hammer's rearward motion a small hole in the shaft of the stirrup will appear. Stick the paper chip shaft or needle into the hole-not real far though only until it barely sticks out the other side and catches the cup(Mainspring Rod Swivel) . Before you remove the mainspring assembly (stirrup, cup and spring) note the cut out in the base of the hammer where the head of the stirrup seats. That's where you'll reseat it upon reassembly. After you have captured the mainspring ease it out of the frame. Place the head of the stirrup in a depression or shallow hole in a block of scrap wood. Push down on the cup and remove the paper clip/needle. Check the stirrup shaft for burrs. A little polishing with emory cloth will smooth things up even if you don't see any burrs. To reassemble the mainspring assy. place the stirrup head in the block of wood, place the mainspring over the shaft, then the cup (domed end faces away from the spring), press down on the cup (you may want to use needle nose pliers padded with masking tape) and re-insert the paper clip/needle and capture the spring. Again just insert the clip/needle far enough to barely stick through and retain the cup. You can then reinstall the mainspring assembly and check for function.

But....you may as well take the side plate off if you had to go as far as the mainspring assembly. Use a properly sized screw driver and remove the three side plate screws. Keep track of which screw went into which hole. Turn the revolver over so the right (side plate side) is facing down. Tape firmly on the butt of the revolver with a wooden dowel or screw driver handle (something non-metallic) as you cradle the gun and catch the sideplate in your hand. Examine the interior and note the arrangement of the internal parts. Removal of the hammer is pretty easy at this point. You need to either leave the cylinder in the gun or hold the cylinder release to the rear as you pull the trigger. As you slowly pull the trigger the hammer will move to the rear and can be lifted from the frame. Look at the inside of the frame, the hammer and if you have a 442 with the Interlock check it too for burrs and metal shavings. I don't recommend tackling the trigger/rebound assy. unless you have somone on hand with a little experience with them. But you can eyeball them for burrs and flush everything out with some solvent. Wipe up the excess solvent and let it all dry thoroughly. Use a good quality gun oil. I use Hoppe's Moly Oil but there are plenty of godd products out there. I wouldn't use CLP unless it was all that I had. To reinstall the hammer slowly pull back on the trigger (cylinder release to the rear or cylinder in gun) and seat the hammer on its pin. Push down firmly on the rebound assy. in case it lifted a little as you removed/reinstalled the hammer. You can reinstall the mainspring assy. now with the sideplate off (it's easier to see the slot where the head of the stirrup seats this way). Press down one more time on the rebound assy and the hammer to be certain they are seated and reinstall the side plate. Angle the top edge down so that the little tongue seats into the top of the frame. Gently press (light taps if necessary the lower and rear of the plate into place and screw it down. Replace you grips and check for function. If the above didn't straighten things out it's time for a trip to the gun doctor.

Best Regards,
ADP3