Problem with Wolf Primers

[AzShooter]

I'm in the process of a move and all my Federal primers have been packed away.

I found 1000 Wolf primers and loaded up some ammo for practice and for a match. Glad I made it to the range early tonight to check the ammo.

None would fire out of my Model 627. It has a very light action, measuring 4 lbs 3 oz. I tried to increase it but the ballance would go out and the trigger would not reset if I went any heavier.

Fortunately I had my 686 with me. It too has a smooth and light action at 5 lbs. Wolf primers still wouldn't go off but when I tightened the strain screw and got up to 6.5 lbs the trigger would still reset perfectly and all the primers went off without a click.

Pays to bring two guns in case. After the move I'll be able to load all my ammo with Federals. Somewhere in the garage I have 50K.

Model 627:



And the savior of the day. Model 686:

 

[dg101win]

I have been using Wolf primers for about 18 months now,both large and small pistol ones. I load them in 38,357,44spec,44mag,45colt,and 45acp.
I have not had any problems in my S&W's,Ruger Blackhawks or Colt and Springfield 1911's.
However all of my handguns have factory installed springs.

 

[Terry C]

Never used Wolf, but I have all my revolvers adjusted to function reliably with CCI primers which are also notorious for being "hard."

Can't get down into the super-light trigger pull range, but I don't want a light action the goes bang "most of the time." I want a useable action that goes bang no matter what it's fed.

BTW, I never run a revolver with the strain screw backed out. Loose screws move, usually at the worst possible time.

I generally don't like to mess with mainspring tension too much. But when I do, I get two replacement screws. I trim the first one a little at a time until it goes just past where I want it, then cut the other to the last reliable length (measured with a micrometer). I always do this with empty cases primed with CCI primers. At the very first hint of a light strike, it's time to stop and back up.

Smoothness is more important to me than light pull weight. Plus, a well-smoothed action will usually go a little lighter reliably than a not-so-smooth one.

 

[Culina]

I have been using the Wolf Small Rifle and .223 primers. A lot of guy on the High Power line buy them because they feel they get an edge in accurace and not just a lower price. I have not had any problems with them yet.

 

[Skip Sackett]

The only firearm I have ever had any problem with FTF because of light primer strikes is a M625JM with a frame mounted firing pin. They come from the factory with his spring kit in it. According to Midway, that means only Federal primers. No thanks!

It wouldn't light off Winchesters so I asked here on the forum for some advice. Joni suggested to put a spent primer under the strain screw. Once I did that and installed an extended firing pin, not one FTF. Not with Winchester nor with the thousands of rounds loaded with Wolf.

An "uber light" trigger is usually made to mask some other shooting problem. Sure accuracy goes up. If you learn what trigger pull is supposed to be, it will too! This isn't aimed at anyone, just a generalization. Seen folks get those babies tuned so light a breath will make them go off. Also, usually coupled with mouse f**t loads because recoil really messes with accuracy too.

Simply get a gun, take it out of the box and shoot it. Learn to shoot it correctly and no matter what kind of trigger pull you run into, you will shoot well.

 

[Paul5388]

I took a lightened mainspring out of my M28-1 just because it was too light to ignite my choice of primers. Put a factory spring in and now it will ignite a CCI 400 without a hitch.

 

[bluetopper]

I'm an avid user of both large and small Wolf pistol primers. Never an issue and never had a problem with them.

 

[5906fan]

I use the small to load 'practice' rounds for me and nephew's 9mm s&w 5906's no problems. also use them for 9makarov, .380acp and .32acp 'practice' rounds. no problems.
the 'carry' loads I use Win.