Proper Masonry/Brick Gap Repair

[Onomea]

I’m on the board of an HOA. One of our owners recently installed a ductless air conditioning system. In order to get electricity to the outdoor compressor, the contractor’s subcontractor electrician drilled a hole through the base of a brick column abutting the wooden building. The column supports a wooden gate. Here’s the hole:



This work caused the brick column to lean away from the wooden building, opening up a gap. This is most notable at the top of the column, but continues on down.






Our concern is that the gap will allow water intrusion, leading to rotting the wood of the building, compromising its integrity, and perhaps harming its foundation.

Initially the gate could no longer close and lock because the leaning brick column pushed it too far toward the other post. The owner fixed this by sanding the wood down so that it would fit.



Next week the air conditioner contractor is going to return to discuss how to fix this gap. My concern is that he’ll say let’s just squirt some caulking in there and call it a day. I want to be sure that we get him to do a proper fix, and would like the forum’s advice as to what a proper fix would be. (If the proper fix is, in fact, just caulking, I’d like to know that, too.)

I’d appreciate the help. What say you?

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

When we remodeled historical structures, spalled holes in brick and stone are quite common. We were either sandblasting or acid washing the exterior, the holes were just tucked pointed in with a color matching morter. The window casing and other wood needs caulked with a good exterior caulk maybe with a foam backer to fill the large gaps. (those gaps don't appear to be caused by the electrician, just settling or shrinkage.)

Just because something meets code, doesn't mean it looks acceptable!

Ivan

 

[Onomea]

Well, the gate closed before the electrician drilled the hole. Per the owner of the gate, after the drilling, the gap appeared, the column leaning away from the wall (and causing the wooden gate to extend out too far to close.)

Are you saying appropriately colored mortar is what would be best to fill the gap?

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

Maybe he really was a huge ****, and needs to be fiscally shown the error of his ways!

Ivan

 

[Onomea]

(Re fiscal ways, I did tell the owner to withhold final payment until we figure this out!)

 

[arjay]

I’m guessing the hole for the conduit was too tight and he forced the column away from the building? If so,he needs a bigger hole!
Every bit of the gap (not just the surface) needs to be filled or water will find its way in eventually

 

[Onomea]

What should be used as filler?

 

[arjay]

If I could get mortar all the way in there or a foam spray might be better with a flexible caulking on the surface

 

[ameridaddy]

The brick and mortar column are rigid and up against a wood corner board and siding. Assuming the brick and mortar don't settle and remained stationary, the wood would still expand and contract with changes in humidity and mortar alone is permeable and will absorb water. Eventually, maybe quite quickly, that joint of mortar against the wood is going to admit water between them, and the wood, not being paintable in such a small gap, will rot prematurely.
In my nearly 50 years of owning and repairing my wood and brick houses, that arrangement is always trouble.
A wood and brick or mortar interface must always be accessible for caulking replacement and repaint, or the wood will rot. Mortar alone is permeable and it alone will not keep moisture from the wood.
If the wood behind the brick is still sound, I can only suggest:
1. Drill a larger hole to take the strain off the conduit and the brick.
2. See if the brick column moves and be sure it is stable and not permanently loosened on its footing as the gate swings.
3. If stable, use a good, flexible outdoor caulk in the joint and paint it after it cures. A low expansion foam might be a good idea if the gap is large, but it doesn't appear to be so.
4. Keep an eye on it for recaulk and paint with seasonal changes.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

To fill gaps in crevasses there is a rope like foam rubber. It comes in several sizes and is flexible and compactable, so you can stuff it through an opening and it will return to original size inside. When the caulk hardens over the filler it is glued in place and you cannot push things back together.

The only other good solution is to remove the trim boards and if possible reuse them, but reinstall the woodwork. Them repaint and fill the nail holes. Quite an expense for such a small project.

Ivan

 

[Big Cholla]

A good flexible caulk is the only answer. Masonry grout should not be used. As stated, masonry should never be directly abutted to any type of wood structure. IHO, this new situation gives the owner a chance to correct the original incorrect situation.

 

[coltle6920]

Would be nice to see some pics not so closeup showing where the conduit runs on both sides of the brick. Seems like the contractor took a shortcut running the conduit between the seam where the brick wall meets the house.

Just some visual thoughts... Seems like an extremely thin brick wall given it's height. Brick is normally used as a face on concrete or cinderblock. Wonder how thick the footer is. If the contractor tried to make a large hole in one shot that might have contributed to movement from vibrations. Probably would've been better to chip out that half brick then run the conduit and mortar the hole when done.

As said above there are numerous fixes but I don't see any as being permanent.

 

[Onomea]

I appreciate the advice, guys.

Addressing Coltle6920’s comments, some pics not so closeup showing where the conduit runs on both sides of the brick:





Re thickness of the wall, as seen from the top:



I am intrigued by Ameridaddy’s idea of enlarging the hole through which the conduit passes as a way of reducing the strain on the conduit and brick. But I wonder if it is too late to do any good?

As to stability, I noticed if, when outside the gate, I shove with my right hand the brick column with the conduit through it, pushing it towards the inside of the patio, it moves slightly. Perhaps a 1/4”. Not much, but definitely noticeable. Pulling on it in the opposite direction, it does not seem to move. Since the gate is of light wood, it does not seem to move when the gate is opened and closed.

I am unsure of the footing, the base. What it is, I mean. Surely more than just part of the column of bricks buried a bit? But it can’t be all that much, either, because the drilling and conduit caused the entire brick column to tilt slightly...

I wonder if a solution might be to dig the footing up and move the entire column an inch or so away from the wooden wall and reseat it? Run the conduit through the space between the wall and the column. Patch the hole in the brick drilled for the conduit. Maybe too much time and effort to be practical?

 

[mckenney99]

I would have to question how stable the brick column was to begin with and if there is a proper solid footer under the column at all. The pressure of the conduit should not have affected the column with a proper solid footer under it. The electricians work may have just exposed a bigger preexisting condition or focused attention on an area that has not been examined closely recently.

 

[delcrossv]

What a disaster- and I'm not talking about what the electrician did- except maybe doing you a favor.

Remove the column and footer.
Fix the rot that almost assuredly is behind the mortar that the "mason" used to fill the gap with the clapboard when the wall went in.
Put in a cedar post and a short section of cedar fencing to bridge the gap between the gate and the wall.

 

[arjay]

The way this was built,it’s at the end of its useful life.Building that column on a footer and butting it (possibly strapping it)into a building sitting on a foundation creates a problem. When the ground freezes the column heaves and the building doesn’t. The caulking cracks ,water gets in the joint and is trapped there.

 

[coltle6920]

Pic #2 in original post is obvious that no strapping was used to secure pillar to house. The pillar most likely stands alone.

Pic #1 in post 13 is a little disturbing. Looks like a drainage issue to me. What is the purpose of the bricks on the ground? If there's erosion under the pathway you can be sure it's also under the pillar.

Sorry for not having any positive comments.

 

[Onomea]

I think the bricks on the ground in post #13 are there as the remains of someone’s, a previous owner’s, edging a flowerbed project. There are loose bricks lying around here and there around plant beds and such. Don't think there is much significance to them beyond that...

 

[eveled]

The column should come down. The wood wall checked for rot then a new more solid column put up that doesn’t touch the wood siding. The problem was there before the hole was drilled. It never should have been done that way in the first place.

 

[eveled]

Are there a lot of those columns in the complex? Just wondering if the others are the same way. Or is it a one and only?