swmod29
Member
Is it ok to shoot +Ps & Corbons in my 1946 HD?I would think yes,since the old .38-.44 Hi-Speed was pretty hot for its' time.Thus far,in deference to its' age,I've only fired standard pressure .38s in it.
+Ps in a .38-.44 HD?
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If the weapon is in good shape the hd will handle +p with no problem.
Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
The 38/44 load has SUBSTANTIALLY higher chamber pressure than the +P which is loaded well below maximum allowable pressure and is really marketing myth rather than a hot load.
Now we need someone with an N frame 357 to ask if +P will blow up his gun (and I have already seen such a question posted).
Now we need someone with an N frame 357 to ask if +P will blow up his gun (and I have already seen such a question posted).
GF
Member
I'm begining to think Plus Pee's are to dangerous to even handle, much less shoot in anything.
GF
GF
My favorite lube for sears and the like is RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. It is also good for slides and rails of bottomfeeders, particularly stainless ones.
Is it safe to use on my Model 19 and Model 66?
Is it safe to use on my Model 19 and Model 66?
Pisgah
Member
>Is it safe to use on my Model 19 and Model 66?
Safe? Well, it won't eat it or anything. But to me grease is something to use on components that slide against eash other, and you won't find many of those in a revolver. Grease inside a revolver will inevitably gunk up over time, and won't be very easy to get out. On revolvers, a good light oil, sparingly applied, is the best way to go, IMO.
A good rule of thumb - if it slides, grease; if it rotates, oil.
Safe? Well, it won't eat it or anything. But to me grease is something to use on components that slide against eash other, and you won't find many of those in a revolver. Grease inside a revolver will inevitably gunk up over time, and won't be very easy to get out. On revolvers, a good light oil, sparingly applied, is the best way to go, IMO.
A good rule of thumb - if it slides, grease; if it rotates, oil.
Last time I picked up a box of Corbons,it growled at me!Seriously though,I know the .38-.44 HD is on the N frame&I know it was built to withstand near-.357 pressures.I was just asking if a much-loved,64 yr.old revolver would be harmed,in any way, by infrequent heavy loads.Dave,Bill....please advise
swmod29:
If your HD is in good mechanical condition it will digest the +Ps with absolutely no problem. I use hotter loads in my transitional Outdoorsmen on a regular basis !
Jerry
If your HD is in good mechanical condition it will digest the +Ps with absolutely no problem. I use hotter loads in my transitional Outdoorsmen on a regular basis !
Jerry
I agree with your rule of thumb, and it was good of you to post the above caution. However, if you disassemble an S&W revolver, you will find that there are a few places that do slide, including at least the sears mentioned above, and the rebound slide. I once got a long-used 25-2 back from a gunsmith after some renewal and fitting a new trigger, and it had a hitch in the DA that wasn't there before. It had been lubricated with Ed's Red. I disassembled it, completely dried it off, relubed the abovementioned locations, plus the hand, with +P SS Lube, and the rest of the innards sparingly with oil (probably Ed's Red). The hitch disappeared and has not returned. There apparently IS a LIMITED use for grease inside an S&W revolver.
A repetition for newbies: Pisgah's overall advice is IMO correct, and should be followed. BTW, if you do use +P grease, use it VERY sparingly. Also, be warned that it is VERY good. If you use it on a 1911 sear or hammer, retest all safety functions after reassembly. A GOOD trigger job should depend on geometry alone for safety, not partly on friction. However, not all trigger jobs are good, although they seem to be much more common than thirty or forty years ago.
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SaxonPig's point he was making ( and I agree with him) is that 38+P ammo is NOT a heavy load compared to what most of these revolvers were designed for. The ammo companies use the mis-conception that modern +P ammo is some kind of super hot load just to sell their product. While +P has more energy and velocity than std 38spl it's not beyond the safe limits for most steel frame and cylinder revolvers.
Don
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Dave T
Member
The only courrently made commercial load that duplicates the performance of the old 38/44 or HiSpeed is Buffalo Bore's 38 Special +P 158g SWC-HP/GC. It delivers about 1150 fps (I think they said 1161 or so) from a 4" barrel. None of the other major ammo makers 158g +P loads are with-in 150-200 fps of that.
The only down side to this ammo is the cost. I've shot a box or so and it is both impressive and fun. Not only made my steel plates ring, they bounced around on the stand. When I managed a fast double the plate almost came off the stand. (smile)
Dave
The only down side to this ammo is the cost. I've shot a box or so and it is both impressive and fun. Not only made my steel plates ring, they bounced around on the stand. When I managed a fast double the plate almost came off the stand. (smile)
Dave
BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
It is not uncommon to see .38-44's rechambered to .357 Magnum and fired with a lot of that. They seem to hold up just fine. I sold one such to a fellow I used to see regularly at the range. He loaded up .357's by the coffee can, full charge stuff, and seemed to shoot most of a can each time I saw him. After several years of this, the gun felt no different to me. .357 Mag is a lot hotter than .38 Special Plus-P. I would forcast no difficulties.
I just finished a deal on an 38/44 HD that was converted to .357. How many members have had experience with HD conversions. Is this a common find in the model of 1950 market? I have read references here that some folks are seeking shooters for conversion to .44Spl. I know it is an "over built" revolver.
BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
.38-44's being rechambered to .357 Magnum was pretty common. I would call it more of a 'modification' than a conversion.' It just involved running the Magnum chambering reamer into the existing Special chambers and deepening them another 0.10". I think that 25% of the .38-44's I have examined have had this done to them.
It was pretty common in the 50's and 60's when factory original .357 Magnums were hard to find and disposable income was much less. As .357's are so common now, I can see no reason for anybody to do it these days.
Conversions to other calibers is another matter. Folks seem to like to make .44 Specials and .45 Colts out of them. Sometimes new barrels are used but often the original .38 Special barrels and cylinders are bored out and re-rifled to the new round. I had Hamilton Bowen convert a 4 inch .38-44 H.D. to .45 Colt for me a few years back. It may be my favorite revolver.
Such caliber conversions make many .38-44 afficianados cry, though.
It was pretty common in the 50's and 60's when factory original .357 Magnums were hard to find and disposable income was much less. As .357's are so common now, I can see no reason for anybody to do it these days.
Conversions to other calibers is another matter. Folks seem to like to make .44 Specials and .45 Colts out of them. Sometimes new barrels are used but often the original .38 Special barrels and cylinders are bored out and re-rifled to the new round. I had Hamilton Bowen convert a 4 inch .38-44 H.D. to .45 Colt for me a few years back. It may be my favorite revolver.
Such caliber conversions make many .38-44 afficianados cry, though.
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38-44HD45
Absent Comrade
I own three Heavy Duties, all of which have been converted by Hamilton Bowen. One is now a 4" .44 Special, and I have .45 Colts in both 4" and 5" barrel lengths. The one that is now a .44 Special had been bored to .357 before I got it, and was the loosest and most worn of the three when it came to me, but it wasn't all that loose, even so. Just how much .357 it had digested, I do not know. I love all mine, with the 4" .45 being my favorite.
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