Purchased 2 more J Point Reflex sights, range report.

scooter123

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Previously I had installed a J Point on my model 610 and was VERY impressed with the results. Prior to getting the J Point I had been using a rail mounted Red Dot scope on the 610 and the large offset from the barrel axis caused convergence issues. Set the sight for 100 feet and the gun shot nearly 4 inches low at 25 feet. After installing the J Point I found that when sighted in at 100 feet the POI was within 1 inch of aim from 20 feet out to 135 feet. Bascially, it gave me a gun that would allow me to explode a squirrel at any range that I am capable of hitting a 2 inch target. It's also a very compact sight that allowed me to use an exacto knife to modify and off the rack Galco retention holster to carry the 610 with full retention in place.

Last week I decided to purchase 2 more J Points, one for my 617 and one for my 620. Previously the 617 was equipped with a cheap Sightmark reflex on a rail and the 617 had the same convergence issues as the 610 with the rail mounted red dot. However, in the case of the 617 it was shooting 4.2 inches low at 25 feet when sighted for 100 feet.

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As for the 620, my eyes aint what they used to be and seeing the iron sights is now not possible. Tried using readers and then I couldn't get the target in focus.

First the 617. Without the angle shim installed I couldn't get the elevation adjusted perfectly at 25 yards, ran out of adjustment with the POI 1/2 inch low. However, that was close enough to see how the sight would work at varying distances. Result, very little deviation from 20 feet to 100 feet. At most, about 7/8 inch. I've now installed a 1 degree angle shim under the sight and next week I zero it in completely.

Then the 620. This one I did get to perfect conincidence with the dot at 25 yards using 125 gr. Speer Lawman TMJ. However it was at the limit for the elevation adjustment. I could try adding a shim, however I already know the gun will shoot about 4 inches high with 158 gr. 357 Magnums. So I just may leave it as it is so I have the elevation adjustment available to tune if for Magnums.

Then I ran the target back to 35 yards and did some shooting from a sandbag rest in single action. The very first shot was on center 1/4 inch low in the red bullsye on an 8 inch shoot-n-c. Peeped the shot with my spotting scope, got excited, and threw the next shot 4 inches high and 1 inch left. Then I settled down and shot a horizontal line 1 3/4 inches long from center to center with the following 4 shots. Vertical deviation of this 5 shot string was less than 3/8 inch. IMO, the horizontal stringing was due to my needing to work on my release, I suspect a better shooter could have grouped at 3/4 inch or less. However, 35 yards is a LONG ways away for this old fart, if a gnat had bumped my on the ear it would have probably have swung that dot at least an inch. Final shot I threw high and left again, 3/4 inch to the right of that first flyer.

Finished up with some rapid fire drills at 25 feet, result was a perfectly centered 4 inch group.

Conclusions.

One is that the 2 piece barrel in the 620 is capable of astounding accuracy. It is without doubt the most accurate handgun that I have ever shot. Fact is people missed the boat on the 620, it's a freaking rifle disguised as a handgun. As we used to say when I drove a taxi to pay for college, "if you snooze you lose".

Second, the J Point Reflex is IMO the PERFECT 1 to 1 magnification optical sight for a revolver. JP Rifles offers a direct mount that uses the standard 3 hole pattern in the newer guns and it results in a sight that is only offset above the barrel axis by about 1 inch. Because of this the convergence is quite low. Depending on the caliber and it's arc, I believe that it's a setup that allows near perfect hit's from about 25 feet out to 50 yards or more. It's also a sight that allows us old farts to shoot well enough to make the young bucks sit up and take notice.

The downside is they aren't inexpensive and they are an "always on" sight. Cost is currently 299.00 and the S&W revolver mount lists at 49.95. Note, the mounting kit ships with a 1 degee wedge shim that can be reversed, so the basic mount has lots of provision for getting the elevation tuned perfectly. The case also has a rear signt notch molded into it so it can be used co-witness profided a taller fron sight is installed. On my 620 putting the standard front sight right at the bottom of the notch will get a near center hit, something useful to know should the battery die. Good news is that by keeping the cover on the one on my 610 I haven't had to replace the battery yet and haven't seen any drop in intensity in the 4 months I've had it. BTW, all mounting plates feature 4 indexing posts for the sight body so when changing the battery the zero is maintained. Also, they have a built in light sensor so using the cover puts the sight into the low intensity setting to reduce battery drain. More good news is JP Rifles ships very quickly, ordered the last 2 on a Tuesday evening and recieved them on Friday by choosing 2nd day air. However, JP Rifles has yet to email the shipment confirmation, a bit of a snafu there. Finally, JP Rifles offers a lifetime warranty to the original owner, so if it ever goes toes up due to normal use you'll get a replacement. Just don't let the battery leak, they won't cover damage due to that or abuse.

Bottomline, if your considering going to an optical sight, forget using a rail mounted sight and get the J Point. As I found out with experience, the 2 inch or greater offset created by using a rail causes convergence problems and make the gun pretty sensitive to distance. There is also the matter of trying to find a holster. It took me less than 10 minutes to cut enough clearance in my Galco OWB holsters to clear the J Point and allow the retention strap to function perfectly.

Quite simply I LOVE this sight. I also plan on getting at least 2 more, one for my 67-1 (it's already been tapped) and one for my Sig P239. However the one for the Sig will have to wait until I can get a spare slide, due to the the reciprocating motion of the slide on a semi, it's best to epoxy the mounting plate to the slide, if they aren't epoxied in place they tend to either fracture the mounting plate or damage the dovetail. Following is the link to the page for the J Point.

JP Rifles

PS; in no way to I work for JP Rifles nor have I recieved anything for this endorsement. Fact is I've paid full retail for every one purchased. In fact, they won't even know about this post unless they happen to read it. I'm only posting because it's such a superb product that it deserves some notice.

Edit note. Added a link to one image of 4 that are posted further down in this thread, scroll down and hit the thumbnails if your interested.
 
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Joni, I plan on doing something about that, probably next weekend. If I get some reasonably good results I'll post them up in this thread. BTW, the quality of many of the pics posted on this forum are VERY intimidating, it's going to take a good bit of head scratching to come up with something close to being worthy.
 
scooter,
Post the pics anyway, my vision can't tell the difference!
I've looked at the Bushnell Holosight, but never met anyone that had used one. Now I can get REAL information first-hand, if you'd be
so kind. Like some other folks, I expect my shots to be perfect,
but not when the sights can't be focussed on.
Thanks in advance for your pics and results, TACC1.
 
I'm currently looking at them too, please post whatever you manage to come up with.
 
Maybe that is just the thing for my tired old eyes. I didn't understand if installation required any modification to the gun - for example a 629 or model 57. Hopefully no drilling and tapping is needed.
 
Maybe that is just the thing for my tired old eyes. I didn't understand if installation required any modification to the gun - for example a 629 or model 57. Hopefully no drilling and tapping is needed.

It depends on whether your guns are post 1993 when S&W started tapping the top strap with a 3 hole pattern for a mounting rail. Open your cylinder and see if you see 3 holes in the bottom of the top strap, if they are present the mounting plate will mount right up. All you do is remove the rear sight assembly and mount the mounting plate for the sight.

If you don't see those 3 holes, take both gun and mounting plate into a gunsmith to have these mounting holes added. BTW, make sure the gunsmith taps them for a #6-48 thread because that's standard for S&W and is what is supplied to mount the plate. If the gunsmith tells you that something else will work fine, find a gunsmith who has a #6-48 tap in his shop. As for the cost, a shop 1/2 mile from work charges 65 dollars to tap the frame to the new pattern.

That is actually a pretty reasonable price, I tapped my model 67 and 617 to the standard pattern and the tap alone cost me 35 dollars, plus there was the cost for a 0.114 diameter drill and a 0.119 diameter ream to insure that each hole was perfectly sized prior to tapping. Then I had to make up soft jaws for the mill at work, indicate everything in, and finally drill and tap the frames. All told it took 2 1/2 hours from start to finish.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE, the rear most screw is recessed deeper in the plate so it sits below the bottom of the sight when it's mounted. Because of this, one screw will have to be filed about 0.060-0.090 inch shorter than the other two. Note, this is in the instructions for mounting the plate and make sure to do this. If you don't file it the screw down, will extend through the bottom of the topstrap enough to hit the cylinder and bind it up completely. It'll also leave a very ugly mark on the cylinder if you snug up the screw with the cylinder closed, it might even damage the extractor. Because of this, MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE MOUNTING PLATE WITH THE CYLINDER SWUNG OPEN, then be VERY careful when closing the cylinder to test for fit.

Note, this is the one area where JP Rifles really dropped the ball, big time. Trying to file or grind a screw this small is a royal PITA. I used a diamond burr chucked up in a Dremel for this task and it took about 10 minutes and a few owies when the screw got too hot to hold in my fingers. I would also suggest strongly AGAINST using a bench grinder, odds are excellent you'll just launch it into the deepest recesses of your shop area and #6-48 screws won't be found at any local hardware store. In addition, you'll end up with a big burr that will keep it from threading into the hole. Note, after grinding it shorter with whatever method you use, make sure to stone a small chamfer around the end to remove any burr and soften the sharp edge left from cutting it down, it will start in the hole in the frame much easier if you take the time to do that. I'll also suggest that if you have any doubt of whether you can shorten this screw without losing it, to just pay a gunsmith to install the mounting plate, it really is a pain and JP Rifles doesn't ship any spares.

PS; if you thinking that I should have noted this issue in my original post, you are absolutely CORRECT. Quite frankly, I just didn't think about it. That one screw being too long is a real PITA and I've already sent an email to JP Rifles suggesting that they should take the time to either shorten one screw or find a supplier who can provide a screw of the correct length.
 
Got around to taking some pics of the J point reflex installed on the 610, 617, and 620.

I also took one pic of the 620 from the rear showing the red dot and the orientation of the front sight in the sight notch molded into the case of the J Point. One note about that co-witness feature, that is the installation of a taller front sight will be required to get the POI for elevation of the iron sights to coincide with the dot. In the pic shown, you'll see the dot is floating well above the iron sight, if I had a front sight of the proper height these two would overlay each other. However, that rear notch is useful for initial alignment so you can find the dot and could be used in the event of a dead battery by applying some Kentucky Windage, basically aim low by about 4 inches at 30 feet.
 

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Interesting. I run an ultradot on my M41 for bullseye type shooting at 25 and 50 yards and have been considering adding one to my 686 for the same type of shooting, but maybe I'll try the J point reflex instead.

One problem with the ultradot is the dot is barely visible on the target when the sun is shinning on it.
 
Hey Scooter,

I just signed into my account when your thread opened up... how???
Just wanted to say great thread, very informative and Thank you. I've been trying to find out information on different sights for my aging eyes. I've got the M686 and I checked under my strap for the three screws and they are there... what a Blessing. I've got to give these a try; credit to your thread.

P.S. DUH! When I pressed your link you left on one of my threads, I tried to open it through my email notification. I was diverted to the login page then to the link not putting 1 and 1 together... did I mention that not only my eyes are going bad, but my neurons in the old noggin just don't fire like the used to?
 
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Hey Scooter,

I just signed into my account when your thread opened up... how???
Just wanted to say great thread, very informative and Thank you. I've been trying to find out information on different sights for my aging eyes. I've got the M686 and I checked under my strap for the three screws and they are there... what a Blessing. I've got to give these a try; credit to your thread.

P.S. DUH! When I pressed your link you left on one of my threads, I tried to open it through my email notification. I was diverted to the login page then to the link not putting 1 and 1 together... did I mention that not only my eyes are going bad, but my neurons in the old noggin just don't fire like the used to?

LOL, know exactly what you mean, wasted lots of time and energy standing with the door of the fridge open trying to remember what the heck I wanted.

BTW, I don't think it's a poor neuron thing, it's just that once you've hit a certain age we have done so many things so many times that we kick the body into "autopilot" with so little thought when we want something that we don't remember why we kicked it into "autopilot" when we get there.

I think that you're going to love this sight. While it is a bit expensive at about 370 bucks shipped, once you shoot with one you'll never question the cost. Just make sure to shorten the rear mounting screw as instructed before installing the mounting plate, otherwise it will cause some pretty ugly damage.
 
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