Q: any reason I shouldn't buy a 686?
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CAJUNLAWYER
Member
None whatsoever.
mm6mm6
Member
Yeah, because then you'll want a set of Patrick Grashorn's gorgeous Elk Stag handles....
Snapping Twig
Member
I have to concur, this is the only reason not to buy a 686, the 586.
Rick in IA.
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S Twig,
What kind of grips are those ?
Thanks, Rick
What kind of grips are those ?
Thanks, Rick
bountyhunter
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The first wheelgun I ever bought was a 6" 686 seven shot. I probably put 30k rounds through it, right now it is my bedside defense gun. They are indestructible and very accurate.
The model 66 is my second favorite. A better choice if you shoot mostly .38. I think the weight and balance of the 66 is perfect, the 686 is a shade top heavey.
Snapping Twig
Member
Rosewood Hogue smooth finger grip.
I love my 686 but I love my 586 more.
RON in PA
Member
I'm fortunate to have both a 586 and a 686 and consider them to have the best DA trigger pulls of all my Smith revolvers. The 586/686 were designed by S&W with DA shooting in mind and the lock timing was modified from the K frame timing for this purpose.
flop-shank
US Veteran
Interesting post, Ron. I'll add to it by saying my 4" nickel 586 has the best DA trigger of all my wheelguns hands down.
Like many here, I own a 586 and a 686, and hope to purchase more L frames in the future.
Like many here, I own a 586 and a 686, and hope to purchase more L frames in the future.
Sporting12
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I have a 686 Plus 3".
Love it!!
Regards, Pete
Love it!!
Regards, Pete
S&W-Keeper
Member
There are 4 reasons not to buy a 686.
1. don't have the money
2. can't find one
3. have to many 686's already
4. someone dragged it behind a car for miles
1. don't have the money
2. can't find one
3. have to many 686's already
4. someone dragged it behind a car for miles
Thanks everyone,
Here is a follow up question; I want the gun for targets / paper / plates / etc. It will NOT be used for CCW / home defense etc. That being said, is the 686 the best choice in the 38 / 357 catagory or should I be looking at a different model? The gun I'm looking at sports a 6" ported barrel but it not original. The original 4" barrel is included.
I shot a co-workers 4" model 60 the other day and it seemed like a handfull with .357's... I want something to soak up the recoil.....
Is the 686 sill the best options in the 38 / 357 catagory?
Here is a follow up question; I want the gun for targets / paper / plates / etc. It will NOT be used for CCW / home defense etc. That being said, is the 686 the best choice in the 38 / 357 catagory or should I be looking at a different model? The gun I'm looking at sports a 6" ported barrel but it not original. The original 4" barrel is included.
I shot a co-workers 4" model 60 the other day and it seemed like a handfull with .357's... I want something to soak up the recoil.....
Is the 686 sill the best options in the 38 / 357 catagory?
Snapping Twig
Member
People swear by them, myself included.
Is it the best? Best for who? Some say the K frame points best, others say too many magnums crack the forcing cone due to the design. Others never experience this.
N frame is nice, but the cylinder is shorter than the L frame, thereby limiting boolit selection and the barrel axis is higher than the L frame counteracting the mass for felt recoil. This is not to say N frames are not excellent, they are. I reload, so the shorter cylinder is not an issue for me and I don't notice the recoil difference. It's a different type of recoil, not a stronger one.
L frame is superior for your purposes. Tough, enough mass w/o being too much, perfect size for target or SD.
My advice to you is to jump on it before it dissappears. Having the original barrel is a + and you'll find the 4" to balance like no other, whereas I find the 6" a bit nose heavy.
Is it the best? Best for who? Some say the K frame points best, others say too many magnums crack the forcing cone due to the design. Others never experience this.
N frame is nice, but the cylinder is shorter than the L frame, thereby limiting boolit selection and the barrel axis is higher than the L frame counteracting the mass for felt recoil. This is not to say N frames are not excellent, they are. I reload, so the shorter cylinder is not an issue for me and I don't notice the recoil difference. It's a different type of recoil, not a stronger one.
L frame is superior for your purposes. Tough, enough mass w/o being too much, perfect size for target or SD.
My advice to you is to jump on it before it dissappears. Having the original barrel is a + and you'll find the 4" to balance like no other, whereas I find the 6" a bit nose heavy.
BigBoreShooter
Member
I asked myself that very question last Saturday......just before reaching for my wallet to buy this one.
RV4driver
US Veteran
And yes, Patrick's grips are 'da bomb!
I know one thing for sure...you can't have mine!
Now unfortunately, I find I need/want/crave/must have or I'll die...a 586, with square butt. Damn. I thought I was done...
Jeff
Stainz
Member
I bought a new 4" 10-shooter 617 in early September. I am glad I finally bought one - wish I had done it earlier. Frugal to shoot. Not as much 'fun' against dropping/rebounding metal plates as a .38 S&W Special (or better), of course. Something nice about 'affordable' centerfires.
Last May found me buying a new .38/.357M. I initially went in to finally get a 620, a 4" partial lugged 7-shooter I had eyed since it replaced the 4" 66 several years ago. It is essentially a 686+ with the partial lug - which, you'll recall, I prefer. My only 686/686+ is a 5" Stocking Dealer Exclusive with a partial lug - an anomaly amongst the 686 family.
I was shocked - the new 627 Pro, a 4" tapered lug (As good as a partial lug to me - I just don't care so much for the full lug... is there an echo here?) 8-shooter with a spring loaded front sight, moonclip ready, good barrel, etc - for $120 over that 620 near it on the shelf! I offered to buy it if they'd forgo their usual 3% surcharge, as they call it, a 'discount' for cash - all I had was plastic. He said 'Start writing!'... never knew I could fill out the #4473 so fast. I liked it so much, I said good-bye to the last of my Ruger revolvers to fund it... a bargain!!
Okay, I got more than I expected from the Rugers. Paid off the 627 - bought a HiViz and the Miculek grip - and Ahrends Retro Targets (Decisions...), as well as a LNIB 4" 64 and a new .32 Seecamp & holsters for my wife. I sold my old MKII and bought that new 617, making the switch to all S&W complete.
The 627 Pro is a keeper. Of course, four years ago in February found me getting a barnd new 625JM offering - another keeper. The beastie really is a 'big bore' - that uses affordable/available ammo - .45 ACPs (Wally World UMC brass ball ammo - <$82/250!). Decisions.
Seriously, a 620 is actually less (MSRP $814) than a 4" 617 (MSRP $837), and weighs a few ounces less, too. Actually, it 'points' better with the included grips, too. The N-frame 627 Pro (MSRP $964) weighs ~2.4 oz more than than the K-frame 617, but points great. Anyway, in case it wasn't clear already, I don't like full lugs so much - not that you see them so much when you are shooting, of course. I do have a few - 625JM, 617, & 696 - keepers all. This thing is fun!
Merry Christmas!
John
PS I lied - I still have a Ruger Old Army SS bp c&b revolver... shouldn't count...
Last May found me buying a new .38/.357M. I initially went in to finally get a 620, a 4" partial lugged 7-shooter I had eyed since it replaced the 4" 66 several years ago. It is essentially a 686+ with the partial lug - which, you'll recall, I prefer. My only 686/686+ is a 5" Stocking Dealer Exclusive with a partial lug - an anomaly amongst the 686 family.
I was shocked - the new 627 Pro, a 4" tapered lug (As good as a partial lug to me - I just don't care so much for the full lug... is there an echo here?) 8-shooter with a spring loaded front sight, moonclip ready, good barrel, etc - for $120 over that 620 near it on the shelf! I offered to buy it if they'd forgo their usual 3% surcharge, as they call it, a 'discount' for cash - all I had was plastic. He said 'Start writing!'... never knew I could fill out the #4473 so fast. I liked it so much, I said good-bye to the last of my Ruger revolvers to fund it... a bargain!!
Okay, I got more than I expected from the Rugers. Paid off the 627 - bought a HiViz and the Miculek grip - and Ahrends Retro Targets (Decisions...), as well as a LNIB 4" 64 and a new .32 Seecamp & holsters for my wife. I sold my old MKII and bought that new 617, making the switch to all S&W complete.
The 627 Pro is a keeper. Of course, four years ago in February found me getting a barnd new 625JM offering - another keeper. The beastie really is a 'big bore' - that uses affordable/available ammo - .45 ACPs (Wally World UMC brass ball ammo - <$82/250!). Decisions.
Seriously, a 620 is actually less (MSRP $814) than a 4" 617 (MSRP $837), and weighs a few ounces less, too. Actually, it 'points' better with the included grips, too. The N-frame 627 Pro (MSRP $964) weighs ~2.4 oz more than than the K-frame 617, but points great. Anyway, in case it wasn't clear already, I don't like full lugs so much - not that you see them so much when you are shooting, of course. I do have a few - 625JM, 617, & 696 - keepers all. This thing is fun!
Merry Christmas!
John
PS I lied - I still have a Ruger Old Army SS bp c&b revolver... shouldn't count...
