Q. Removing safety from Shield sear assembly to install hard sear

[rcs]

Hello,

I've watched the Burwell and Apex videos for removal of the sear assembly and install of the Apex hard sear but they do not show how the piece that is the thumb safety is removed/reinstalled on the Shield's sear assembly.

I would appreciate anyone explaining how it's done/what I need to do?

Thanks in advance,

 

[gnystrom]

This long video is for total removal of the safety. Go to 4:26 min on it and you will see how to manulipate it to get it out of the way. Complete removal is NOT necessary to replace the sear. Just wiggle it down enough to get the sear pin out. Piece of cake.

M&P Shield Manual Safety Removal - YouTube

 

[rcs]

GNYSTROM,

Thank you for the link.

Your post appears to indicate that after I wiggle the safety aside/off, I do not have to remove the ejector before pushing the sear pin out to replace the hard sear...or did I understand it wrong?

thanks,

 

[gnystrom]

I did not have to touch the ejector. If it did come loose it looks like that goes back easily. Lot's of YouTube info on M&P detail strip. I never had to take the safety carriage completely off. I just wiggled it until it moved far enough to allow me to drive the sear pin out. It looks like one of those little metal puzzles to put back on if it does come totally off. Take your time. It is really no big deal.

DO remember there is a small plunger and spring under the existing sear so keep a finger on the sear as you are removing it. Maybe do it in a lightweight plastic bag to prevent loss if you accidentally let it fly.

My hard sear only install produced a trigger pull of just under six pounds from the stock one of about eight. and I compared it to a stock Shield yesterday and I think it is a great improvement. I do not think I will change the striker block as it moves nice and smoothly now and I really do not want a lighter trigger than I now have plus I like the fact I can re-install the stock sear at any time if I feel the need.

Let us know how it works out.

 

[rcs]

Thank you again.

regards,

 

[rcs]

Had the time to install the Apex hard sear & striker block today.

Thanks to Gnystrom & the Randy Lee video, the hard sear install went relatively easy. The striker block not so. I heated up the rear sight set screw to (hopefully) "loosen" the red locktite on it. Well, long story short I've stripped the set screw. Went and tried a screw extractor to remove the set screw but that didn't work either. I'll gladly entertain any suggestions from forum members regarding it's removal.

Now the good news is the Apex hard sear works as advertised...it reduced both felt trigger pull and overtravel to a very acceptable level. I have no trigger pull gauge but it feels to me like around 4lbs and crisp.

regards,

 

[gnystrom]

Glad the hard sear worked out well. If you put the striker block in you may be reducing the weight of the trigger even more, so you may have to install a stronger trigger spring to bring it back up to useful range.

As for the stripped set screw I would visit your local gunsmith. If I were you, I would leave it alone until a set of night sights you really like become available and have it done all at once.
I am waiting for Meprolight TruDot's

The world has not ended and it is an easy repair by a competent gunsmith or machinist. You could have done a lot more damage to the slide or sights trying to pound them off with a hammer and punch. Some of them have been a bear to get off.

 

[rcs]

Gynstrom,

I'm happy with my Shield trigger as it is now and have no plans to install the Apex striker block.

I have more load testing to do but when I settle on the most accurate defensive JHP out of my Shield, I plan to keep the factory rear sight and replace the front sight with a Ameriglo night sight of the proper height. I'm a fan of tritium front sights only on my pistols.

regards,

 

[kodiakpb]

Gynstrom,

I'm happy with my Shield trigger as it is now and have no plans to install the Apex striker block.

I have more load testing to do but when I settle on the most accurate defensive JHP out of my Shield, I plan to keep the factory rear sight and replace the front sight with a Ameriglo night sight of the proper height. I'm a fan of tritium front sights only on my pistols.

regards,

You better take into consideration the width of that front sight too. Proglo fronts are wider, and depending on how wide your rear notch is you may not have enough light around the front sight post. If I were you I would just get a matching set. People have tried this with Glocks...they either don't shoot enough for it to bother them or they end up widening the rear notch, or end up spending more on another complete set (because the front sight that they bought was matched to height of stock rear sight, and did not match the rear on a standard set).

 

[rcs]

You better take into consideration the width of that front sight too. Proglo fronts are wider, and depending on how wide your rear notch is you may not have enough light around the front sight post. If I were you I would just get a matching set. People have tried this with Glocks...they either don't shoot enough for it to bother them or they end up widening the rear notch, or end up spending more on another complete set (because the front sight that they bought was matched to height of stock rear sight, and did not match the rear on a standard set).

The Ameriglo web site indicates 4 S&W front sights are .140 in width and 1 is .130 in width. I measured my Shield factory front sight and it is .140

I think I'll be good to go.

regards,

 

[kodiakpb]

If that's the case you should be good to go.