question about checking condition of a used gun....

[ABPOS]

The midway youtube vid says there should be for and aft movement of the cylinder. Well, I was at a gunstore today and it had a few nice smiths. I checked out a 15-4 and 10-5. Both were ones I would've liked to own. They also had a 15 with bone stocks for 1500 bucks. I was like waaaa? But the 15 I looked at was 450. It was definitely more used. The other 15 must've been pretty special.

However, I could not see any perceptible movement in the cylinder on the 10-5, for and aft. And when I check my 19, I barely see any either. Is this a problem?

One thing the midway video forgets to tell you to look for is push off.....

 

[alwslate]

The midway youtube vid says there should be for and aft movement of the cylinder.

However, I could not see any perceptible movement in the cylinder on the 10-5, for and aft. And when I check my 19, I barely see any either. Is this a problem?

No, it's a good thing

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Ideally you're looking for .001" of play. That's not something you're going to feel with your hands, only measure. As long as they open & close smoothly you're good.

.

 

[daddio202]

I am confused are you talking about endshaske? There should be as little movement as possible for the cylinder to move for and aft. Like the previous post .01 movement is acceptable but there should NOT be a LOT of movement of cylinder. No movement is a good thing. As they get used many times throughout the years the cylinder loosens up allowing more "play" in the cylinder.

 

[ABPOS]

OK. In the midway video I think his exact words are "Some movement is good, but not too much". So I guess I thought there was supposed to be "some movement". Which to me meant more than .001 LOL.

I think the model 10 up there is in decent condition. I may look at it again and try and trade an XD 45 for it. The store says they're light on .45's and may be interested in it.

Only downside is it has the ugly pachmyr grips. I'm sure the originals aren't sitting in the back somewhere. Although I could be wrong.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

You don't say how you checked the cylinder "movement" but in my experience the two best ways are with the hammer cocked or with the hammer down and the trigger held to the rear. I have seen some S&Ws that locked up like bank vaults when you did that and some with minor movement - never a bad thing in either case.

 

[ABPOS]

You don't say how you checked the cylinder "movement" but in my experience the two best ways are with the hammer cocked or with the hammer down and the trigger held to the rear. I have seen some S&Ws that locked up like bank vaults when you did that and some with minor movement - never a bad thing in either case.

Aaah, this didn't even dawn on me. I'm not sure if that is pointed out in the youtube vid. I just did it with the hammer at rest.

 

[nachogrande]

THE RIGHT TIME FOR QUESTIONS.

It's nice to hear questions before the purchase. Good luck, & happy shooting.

 

[ABPOS]

I'm not sure if I'm going back for those ones in particular. The 10-5 was pretty nice though. But I plan on going to a gun show tomorrow in my area. I would like to get another J frame. Preferably a steel framed one. But we'll see. I also would love that 10. I just don't think I NEED it as much as a J.