Question about rust under my truck???

Arkyvarminter

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I bought a 05 toyota Tacoma a couple years ago. I noticed when I bought it that it came from up north since the frame underneath has alot of rust on it. I had a wheel bearing go out last year and the Toyota tech couldn't believe the rust. There was a pile of rust on the floor where he had been working on the bearing. Now, I think I have another bearing going out. Is this truck going to cause me alot of problems or will the rust not hurt anything? The truck only has 68,000 miles on it and the rust hasn't affected the body at all, just underneath. Is there anything I can do to get rid of the rust or should I just get rid of the truck? I wouldn't try to hide the rust to a potential buyer so I may have to take less than what its worth. What do you think about this? I figure some on here live in the northern parts so they might know..Thanks
 
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You should wire brush the frame where it is rusted and paint it. Soon. Seems to me there's some special paint that absorbs and neutralizes rust.

I don't know that the wheel bearings are anything more than the early stages of "things that will need replaced on an 8 year old truck"...
 
Possible. We get cars at work (state vehicles from all over the country). Some from up north are only a few years old but are bought as "salvage" vehicles because there is so much frame rot that its actually considered frame damage. Ma state police cars are one of those. We use em for parts. Mechanical and interior. Same with some cars that came from the shore areas.

IMO as long as the frame is good, just replace whats needed and carry on

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I think toyota had some lawsuit or some deal with excessive rust on their vehicles. You might want to do a check and see if toyota had something like that, techs and service managers are not always forthcoming with certain info.
 
I think it was 2000 - 2004 tacomas that were recalled for this issue.
Toyota responded to this issue in 08 but likely changed little between 04 and 08 as they didn't know about a frame corrosion issue till then.
I'm not sure if they ever found a good fix for the problem.
at the time of the recall, they had managed to repair only one of these trucks at an exorbitant expense.
I suspect you have some scrap metal on your hands
 
Depends how bad it is. I would probably fix it. Wire brush and paint it with rust converter.
 
I'm in NJ most of my life and never had a frame rust out. After our recent hurricane flooding there are reports of the cars that got flooded by salt water being a real future problem. I wonder if yours got caught in some coastal flooding. What's the title say?
 
I've had 3 cars get eaten away by rust... One had a door that was 50% bondo at the end. Nasty road salt here.

If you catch it early you can buff it and apply an undercoat. Once it's set in though there's little you can do.
 
I'm in NJ most of my life and never had a frame rust out. After our recent hurricane flooding there are reports of the cars that got flooded by salt water being a real future problem. I wonder if yours got caught in some coastal flooding. What's the title say?

Today its not so easy to do that. The title will say "salvage" all over so you'd have to be blond not to see it. Second, all those cars are at salvage auctions all along the Ny Nj corridor. Bordentown, Manville, Long Islang, Newburgh, IAA and Copart. Once there the titles are rebranded. One would have to buy a flooded car from the owner which wont make much financial sense to the original owner.

Depends where you live in Jersey and how much time you spend down the shore. We get lots of Gov cars from Ocian City, Seaisle city, Egg harbor, Wildwood...etc....etc...lots of rust. Same with NY & Ma state police cars

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Sir,

Without looking at the corrosion myself it's hard to say for sure, but from what you've said it sounds pretty severe. If you lived up here where the roads are salted every winter for most of the winter, I would definitely advise you to sell the truck for what you can get out of it. If the roads in your area are not salted, the deterioration won't be nearly as rapid.

I bought a '96 F250 in 2004 that was in outstanding shape with only 40,000 or so miles, but in examining it before purchase I noticed that the undercoating had been peeling off of the chassis. It was in too good of shape to pass up, but ever since I've had to try to keep ahead of the rust before winter arrives. I have the most outstanding rust preventive/killer available, in my view. It's call Corrosion X Heavy Duty, from the same outfit which manufactures Corrosion X for firearms. Once applied it doesn't need reapplication for a few years in the same spots. The problem is that an undercarriage on a truck has so many "spots" that there are some areas which require coating every year. It is a pain in the behind. It sounds like the problem with your truck is considerably more advanced than mine, so you have to determine how much time you want to put into the battle, so to speak.

Here are a few of the problems that develop from chassis rust:
1)brake and fuel lines. These will tend to go first. Depending on where the engineers placed them, they can be a royal pain to replace.
2)fuel tanks and tank bands. I've replaced one tank which rusted through beneath one of the bands a year or two ago. The bands and their connections are thin and won't endure a lot of corrosion.
3)oil pan. I have to keep a close eye on mine. The factory coating wasn't worth a whole lot, and when it started peeling off, the Corrosion X had to rescue the pan.
4)suspension fasteners, esp. U-bolts and spring mounts. Here is where corrosion eventually becomes downright dangerous if left untreated. I have a friend who drives to and from Michigan a lot, who was taking one of his trips when a corroded spring mount gave way, and that was it. The repair was way too costly to justify.
5)the frame itself. Frames are really stout, but rust will eventually take them, and then you're done.


I'm not trying to scare you, but I've been a DIYer on my old, high mileage vehicles for many years, and have learned that the only thing which actually ends the life of a vehicle is advanced chassis rust at critical structural points. You might have someone evaluate the damage with his own eyes who can give you the advice you seek.

One other thing: In my view something is wrong when wheel bearings wear out at that low mileage, especially on a Toyota. Wheel bearings are generally very long-wearing components.

Best wishes,
Andy
 
Katrina was in 2005, wheel bearings shot already, rusted out frame, I;m thinking this truck got flooded. There are lots of talented car guys that can wash a title and you would be hard pressed to find out it was once a flood or salvage car. How about doing a Carfax?
 
Aloha,

Both Toyota and Nissan have severe frame rust problems.

So much so that they both Bought back Tacomas and pathfinders from

customers for CASH.

My friend in Boston was one who had his Pathfinder bought back.

I would suggest that you do research on your particular vehicle and see if

is included. If not, you might give Toyota a call and "ask" nicely.
 
The correction to the affected units was frame replacement.

two words that strike raw abject horror into the hearts of vehicle techs.
frames aren't spark plugs ... its a complete live gut of the truck followed by reassembly, to include any welds, adhesives, and other "permanent" fastening methods.
the man hours involved would build two trucks on a good day.
 
If your truck is not on a re call, you can stop the rust yourself.
POR is a paint that will stop the rust on the frame. It is expensive. However, NAPA sells a paint that is much less and does the same thing. You can wire brush the frame or just power wash it (careful of pressure on brake lines, etc), then you brush this stuff on.
It is a frame paint and works very well. I have used it many times.
I painted everything that even looked like it would rust.
 
2006 Dodge Dakota

Here are some pics of my truck with the rust problems in the NE. Delaware Valley, Phila. area. I'm told it's from the brine solution that is used on the roads. I don't know when it started to be used. Not covered under my warranty.
First 2 pics are of my oil pan. Approx. $ 700.00 to repair due to being 4 wheel drive.
Next 2 are my brake lines from the master cylinder to the frame. The lines down the frame are OK as they have some kind of coating on them.
001-1_zpsb35dd282.jpg


002-1_zpsf67d247f.jpg


004-2_zps6ab168e3.jpg


003-2_zpsa46def29.jpg
 
Man, that's light rust by MI standards! I'd forget trying to take care of it with Eastwood products. They have some good stuff but you really have to have access to every nook and cranny. I use POR 15 quite a bit and it's awesome but if you're going to spray it, you have to use a cheap, disposable sprayer because the sprayer will be done once that stuff dries. I'd forget about it and either drive it into the ground or sell it......
 
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