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Thank you for the reply
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Question
- Thread starter jimmyj
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john traveler
Member
Jimmy,
I've just what you described. I've fitted .38 S&W Victory model cylinders to M&P frames, and .38 Special cylinders to Victory models. I've installed several M&P and Victory model barrels to the other frames.
In each case, despite the differences in bore and groove dimensions, the accuracy was satisfactory. The only time I would be a bit concerned was if there was a lot of military FMJ .38-200 nsurplus ammo to be fired through the .38 Special bore. That is probably a non-issue since .38-200 ammo is now in the collector category and unlikely to be fired.
I've just what you described. I've fitted .38 S&W Victory model cylinders to M&P frames, and .38 Special cylinders to Victory models. I've installed several M&P and Victory model barrels to the other frames.
In each case, despite the differences in bore and groove dimensions, the accuracy was satisfactory. The only time I would be a bit concerned was if there was a lot of military FMJ .38-200 nsurplus ammo to be fired through the .38 Special bore. That is probably a non-issue since .38-200 ammo is now in the collector category and unlikely to be fired.
Alk8944
US Veteran
Fitting a .38 Special cylinder to a .38 S&W Victory model is quite reasonable. Depending on how the end-shake works out you may have to shim the replacement cylinder or, possibly, cut the yoke bearing surface in the cylinder back a little. Brownells sells a tool to clean up the this surface in the cylinder.
So far as differences in barrel dimensions is concerned I have never been able to verify if there is any design difference between the .38 S&W and .38 Special barrels, in spite of the "common knowledge" that the .38 S&W is larger by .003". I have challenged any one to prove this by providing a slug from a Victory Model that I could measure, but no one has ever responded!
For S&W to have simultaneously manufactured barrels of slightly different dimensions, that were indistinguishable from each other before rollmarks were applied simply is not logical, especially when a .361 nominal bullet can be fired through a .357-.358 barrel with no negative effects. This is exactly the same as the Model 1917 "Enfield" and Pattern 14 rifles manufactured during WWI. These were chambered for .30-06 and .303 British respectfully. The barrels were all manufactured on the same equipment with groove diameters from .311-.314. Needless to say a lot of the .30-06 rifles didn't shoot too well, but good enough for military purposes, 4" at 100 yds.
Anyone who has a .38 S&W M&P who will send me a barrel slug would be greatly appreciated!
So far as differences in barrel dimensions is concerned I have never been able to verify if there is any design difference between the .38 S&W and .38 Special barrels, in spite of the "common knowledge" that the .38 S&W is larger by .003". I have challenged any one to prove this by providing a slug from a Victory Model that I could measure, but no one has ever responded!
For S&W to have simultaneously manufactured barrels of slightly different dimensions, that were indistinguishable from each other before rollmarks were applied simply is not logical, especially when a .361 nominal bullet can be fired through a .357-.358 barrel with no negative effects. This is exactly the same as the Model 1917 "Enfield" and Pattern 14 rifles manufactured during WWI. These were chambered for .30-06 and .303 British respectfully. The barrels were all manufactured on the same equipment with groove diameters from .311-.314. Needless to say a lot of the .30-06 rifles didn't shoot too well, but good enough for military purposes, 4" at 100 yds.
Anyone who has a .38 S&W M&P who will send me a barrel slug would be greatly appreciated!
jimmyj,
If I recall correctly you're a reloader. Buying a .38 S&W die set and some brass sounds less expensive and more satisfactory to me. I'm sure you have more modern guns for serious purposes so I doubt the power difference would make any difference.
My Lyman carbide die set is marked both .38 Super and .38 S&W and I've read that other brands reload both cartridges but just aren't marked for both.
If I recall correctly you're a reloader. Buying a .38 S&W die set and some brass sounds less expensive and more satisfactory to me. I'm sure you have more modern guns for serious purposes so I doubt the power difference would make any difference.
My Lyman carbide die set is marked both .38 Super and .38 S&W and I've read that other brands reload both cartridges but just aren't marked for both.
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